No Firing

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by Zomby Builder, May 27, 2008.

  1. After re assembling my stretch project, The big moment - Start this thing up... I get no juice to the spark plug... ??? All lights work perfect. I did go through & check all plugs & connections. Even took the kill switch loose. No firing still??? Where do I begin to diagnose??
     

  2. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

  3. Ground loom

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    Hi, make sure your tailite wiring is plugged in good and tight, seperate the plug, and plug in again for good contact.

    Some people might think I'm crazy to tell you this, BUT, there are 2 ground loops in the Whizzer wiring loom, and the ONLY place they join is about 2-3 inches toward the engine, in the taillitght loom.
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    I cut & pasted that reply here

    Thanks for this info Mike. I cut out the ground wires from this part of the harness. Could this be the problem? I only left one wire where there used to be 3. Should I go back & re join all 3 together? I just left two of them dead soldiers in the harness.
     
  4. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    I would think so but I'm not sure. I hope Mike chimes in here. I'm still learning these things and I don't want to steer you the wrong way. Maybe PM Mike and ask him to post an answer for all of us to learn from.

    Jim
     
  5. Whizzer Grounding Scheme

    Hi Guys, I did nine hours for the ememy, had a customer stop by, and sitting here to relax I found this post.

    I have no clue as to why, BUT, Modern Whizzer uses a dark green ground loop (mostly in the electronics) and a black loop (chassis ground etc. These 2 systems ONLY come together about 3 inches north of the taillite. NOW if you have removed the taillite loom, simply bare and solder the Dark green and black just before the taillite plug (might be a good idea even on a stock bike?).

    Zomby, I have no idea what mods you made to your loom, but I learned this when I removed ALL extemporneous wiring from the Model 08 a couple of years ago. It was proven time and time again as guys chose to leave off the taillite wiring. There is also a rather large ring connector (black) that should be attached to the frame (if it is still there).

    Do you have the wiring diagram? If not, I can post it. I need to look and see if I still have the "chopped" loom diagram, but it has no lights and I had no interest in that configuration.

    Let me know,

    Mike
     
  6. wired

    I just opened up the harness. I used one redstripe Green, All yellow & all back wire. They go to my taillamp, and seem to be fine. There are 4 more wires, one grey, one red stripe green, one yellow stripe green, & one orange.

    The blacks that I cut off were all three pig-tailed together. I saved one.

    The ground is still intact & connected to my batery case. I thought that the extra wires were for turn signals. What have I missed?
     
  7. Wiring

    Here's what I have.

    IMG_1167.jpg

    IMG_1168.jpg
     
  8. Short?

    Although the lights all work fine, When the motor turns over they all go out??
    Does that indicate a short is in the motor portion of the harness?
     
  9. wiring 101-01-01

    Zomby, I dunno what I'm looking at here. as the loom goes back towards the tailite you see clearly the dark green and black.

    After I get home from wok tomorrow, I can try to have a look at a loom and try to figure out where you are. BUT you need a chassis ground, and you need the dark green and black connected, do you still have any of the pigtail back to the taillite?

    Do you have a wiring diagram to refer to?

    Let me know,

    Mike
     
  10. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Zomby,
    Have you tried a ground from the negitive battery to the motor? I usually connect the large connector [black] to the motor mounts. I also think the 2 circuits Mike is referring to is foward of the tail light connector plug, but they are tied together or grounded through the plug.
    Quenton
     
  11. Harness

    I trimmed off at least 10 inches off both ends. Stock harness was really long. Can't figure this out. I will look for better ground. Mine looks ok though. Do whizzers lose lights while starting? This is my first with lights..
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 28, 2008
  12. whizzer lights

    Hi Zomby, I dunno if you are running a battery? With battery lights come on when key is on, flicker on kicking. Without Battery flash with the power that is created by alternator as I kick start it.

    There was too much light from the flash on camera for me to see all, BUT I did see a black. On the factory 2 piece wiring loom it is very near the tailight (we opened one, too curious), I dunno on the one piece as I've never had one of those.

    At the branch that went from above engine to tailight plug is your spot, and YES a good chassis ground is needed, I have even used the seatpost clamp bolt as a grounding point (no paint there).

    The dark green is kind of a dull forest green, not those silly aqua ones.

    This should have been very easy, I dont know what is our holdup here.

    Let me know, I've got to get ready to go do 9 for the enemy.

    Mike
     
  13. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Zomby, Here is all I know about the grounds and the wiring harness. In order for the motor to fire it is necessary that both ground circuits be grounded together. On later wiring harnesses the dark green [forrest green] and the black wires are connected in the rear tail light harness. First make sure the large ground connector is grounded to the motor, not the battery negative. Secondly check the black & green wire prior to the tail light harness for continuity, if in doubt simply connect the dark green wire and the black wire in the main harness [prior to the tail light harness]. If the lights go out during motor rotation , look closely at the AC/DC module wiring, because the lights convert to magneto power when the motor is running.
    The kill switch & key switch [if used] in the off position ground one of the pins in the CDI module and won't let the motor fire. Another area you might check is the wires connected to the coil, a few years ago a customer used the wires for the horn instead of the coil wires. Usually the wires for the coil are inside a rubber boot that fits around the coil.

    Please let me know if any of the suggestions helped.
    Have fun,
    Quenton
     
  14. 1999

    Hey are you guys sure about the green & black wires needing to be connected? I have looked at my old tail light & it looks like the same 3 wire light that I replaced it with. I don't see how those wires are grounded in that one. Q it's a stock 99 wire harness just like yours. I also checked the remains of the harness that I cut out & don't see any splices that were coupling them. I just hate to chop into it, but I guess I have to.
     
  15. oops

    I just connected the green to black & the fuse burnt. There are 3 green wires two have red stripes & one has a yellow stripe. No all green one. The lights all work fine using Black, Yellow, & one red striped green.

    It's all lit up but no place to go.
     
  16. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    This is a copy of what I posted in another thread for you.

    Do you have a wire with 2 alligator clips on it? I am wondering if it is something as simple as grounding the engine to the frame. Take the wire with the clips and connect one end to the engine block and the other end to the frame where the battery negative wire is grounded. See if you have spark.
    We had a Ford pickup at work that would act weird once in a while and it turned out to be the engine had a floating ground. It would make the sensors go crazy. We grounded the engine to the frame and the problem all went away. Just an idea.
    Good luck

    Jim
     
  17. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Zomby, The secondary ground is all green [no stripe]. I will take a very close look at the harness on my 99 and send you a post later today. Do you have a meter [ohm & voltage]? Are you using all the electronic modules such as AC/DC, regulator, etc? I can cover the minimum wiring if you also need it. I have helped wire hundreds of these motors, so I am sure we can locate the problem. Do you want me to call you later, if so PM me the number you need me to call on. I have several diagrams, and an extra harness we can use as a basis to troubleshoot your system.

    Have fun,
    Quenton
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2008
  18. Troubleshoot

    YES it works!! This has been haunting me for a week now. Thanks Q.
     
  19. That Green Wire

    You were all correct. I grounded the solid green wire from my handlebar kill switch to the bikes frame. Ground was somehow lost when I monkey-ed it adding lights to the front. Q. helped diagnose this with a lead from here to the motor. I then thought it might work just to the frame & it DID..

    One more valuable lesson here. If you take the switch out of your handlebars, and forget which direction to put it back, there is on/off engraved on the switch. When the switch says on it means that the circuit is grounded & means off on your handlbars. I guess that is Chinese for YOUR OTHER ON ..... Foolish American.
     
  20. Huh - Oh!!

    Fired right up!! Drove about 5 miles & went home to adjust carb & found that I have burned out both Head & tail-lamps. It's like the AC DC are both on. Rev the motor & the lights get real bright. Zomby--< is not a very good electrician... I really like the bike though. It is geared a little high & desperately needs an autoclutch. This thing will get up & move. The NuVinci was hard to shift because of the high ratio, & I'm going to take a chance on a lower ratio autoclutch. I'm also going to rewire with NO battery or ignition switch. I probably better no ride at night much anyways.

    IMG_1171.jpg

    IMG_1173.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 31, 2008
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