Now I'm really worried HELP! 1/7/7 UPDATE!

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by sideshowsideswipe, Dec 11, 2006.

  1. I ordered a new CDI and Magneto and switched out spark plugs.

    Changed CDI twice and the magneto (what a pain in the butt) rechecked everything. I walked with the spark plug on the block to confirm good spark also with the spark out I can hear the piston going up and down and I can smell the gas in the chamber.

    I took off the exhaust - air flows freely through the exhaust. the carb is fine I take the carb apart and put it back together each time.

    When I release the clutch at about 6 miles an hour nothing happens. I can hear the chain struggling & rattling trying to make the piston move but nothing at all happens. Before the engine would at least turn over even if it wouldn't kick in and start.

    Why would the piston go up and down with no spark plug inside but when the spark plug is in, it won't move???

    Someone please help!

  2. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    man, sideswipe, wish i had it here to look at...have you actually pulled the head off yet?

    if not, use a wooden dowel in the spark-plug hole to "gauge" piston travel while turning the rear wheel, let us know...
  3. bird

    bird Guest

    it realy might be because the clutch is to loose. the piston might move freely when the plug is out because all the compression is gone because there is no seal. take the clutch cover off and tighten the screw that holds the plate down. its alot easier if you have something that holds the clutch lever on your bars down to. tighten it about half a turn untill you can get the motor to turn over and start.
  4. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    as i recall, the original symptom was "it just died" instead of "it revved up like crazy & i was going nowhere."

    it's so hard to get on the same repair page over the internet. at least i'm hoping something "loose" & not "broken" is the keyword...he doesn't have enuff miles to explain a worn clutch yet, but i guess the hills could've taken an early toll. still, possibly a good call, bird, because i suspect that whatever's loose or broken is under that clutch cover.

    sideswipe, give us some input on where you're at.
  5. Tom

    Tom Active Member

    Re: Now I'm really worried HELP!

    it is not the back wheel skidding, right? is the front sprocket turning at all?
  6. Steve

    Steve Guest

    Like Augidog said, it's hard to diagnose over the net, but I think Bird's right and the clutch is slipping. If it's a relatively new motor, it may have just worn in and needs adjustment.
  7. ok so if it's a clutch slipping issue how do I fix that? the lever arm looks the same as it did when I bought it, I can tell the clutch goes from engaged to disengaged. the metal dowel that comes out frmo the front sprocket looks the same and comes out as far as it always has... I'm lost!
  8. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    sideswipe, we need to be on the same page...

    when you turn the engine (wrench on front sprocket) with the plug out & clutch engaged, does the piston move?

    when you do the same, plug in, what happens?

    when you pedal with the clutch dis-engaged, what happens?

    when you pedal (plug in) and pop the clutch, do you stop dead, or do you hear things turning, just not the engine itself?
  9. Edward

    Edward Guest

    I concur w/ the slipping clutch theory, and raise you one clutch gland nut adjustment. Under the clutch cover is a black gland nut on the big silver dish. Remove the small screw which is in a glob of glue (its small and will disappear-use a rug or concrete to catch it and place it in the clutch cover) mark the cut out that the screw occupied for reference and adjust clock-wise or counter clockwise one notch at a time with a large flat screw driver (the clutch lever on the handle bars should not be engaged). Leave the cover off and the small screw off and pedal the bike around to check the clutch engagement. When the engine engages at a 1/4 to 1/2 out and not at all when the lever is in the locked position, place the small screw into gland nut notch, replace the cover, and ride.
  10. with the plug out and clutch engaged the piston goes up and down.

    with the plug in the chain moves the front sprocket but it doesn't sound happy about it, the piston doesn't move.

    with the clutch disengaged I can pedal as if there was no engine on the bike.

    when I pedal and get up to speed then pop the clutch I just stop dead.

    I hadn't heard of the clutch gland nut... are you trying to mess with the noob?
  11. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    Edward is right. Here's a copy of the instructions I have....

    1. How to Adjust Clutch if signs of slipping or squealing are encountered :
    A) Disengage clutch by pulling handle bar clutch lever inward and lock into catch lock.
    B) Remove right side engine clutch cover and remove small locking screw on center *Clutch Adjust Nut.
    C) Pull clutch arm on left rear engine inward. Back off *Clutch Adjust Nut ¼ turn counterclockwise.
    D) Release handlebar clutch lever and check for slight 1/16" free-play on engine clutch arm.
    E) Readjust *Clutch Adjust Nut as required to get required 1/6" clutch arm free play.
    F) Tighten *Clutch Adjust Nut on clutch plate clockwise until just snug.
    G) Then re-install small locking screw in outer edge of *Clutch Adjust Nut .
    H) Good idea to place a small gob of grease at gear mesh area. Use grease sparingly! Then replace cover.
    I ) Squirt light grade oil down clutch cable sheathing to reduce friction and make for easy lever pull.


    *Clutch Adjust Nut and Lock screw--- aka...gland nut
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
  12. alright thanks guys I'm going to go try this right after I walk the dog and run some errands - it does sound like slippage could be my problem. I use the clutch A LOT whenever I need to slow down I disengage, rev up the engine and then pedal and then let the clutch back in to get going again.
  13. nope that didn't do anything it doesn't seem to matter how I adjust the clutch it still won't make the piston go up and down when the clutch is let out.

    I'm going to cry :(

  14. unless I'm retarded and I just keep doing it wrong.

    I pulled the clutch handle in

    took off the clutch assembly cover on the right side and removed the locking screw

    I pulled the clutch lever arm in 1/8" and rotated the clutch adjust nut 1/4 turn counterclockwise

    I walked the bike and saw that it is still not engaged when the handle is in, the engine is engaged when the lever is let out, but the piston doesn't go up and down.

    I did the same thing but brought the clutch adjust another 1/4 turn counterclockwise, same thing except this time the clutch was not letting out when I 'popped the clutch'

    did the same thing again except the other direction coming back to 3/4 turn back the other way this time the clutch was engaged still a little bit when I pulled it in.

    can I mail this POS to someone and have them look at it for me?
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
  15. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    you said the piston is moving with the sparkplug out?
    hmmmmmm? my first one did that to me....but I wasn't getting any spark, a new plug fixed it for me. I'm baffled????
  16. Cookie

    Cookie Guest

    Dennis Foster

    Sideshow call Dennis Foster at Gurbee he is their go to guy when it comes to these things he is a walking bible........his e mail ad is but it is better to talk to him at 918 855-1807

    He has helped me out a lot and loves these little rice burners :)

  17. thanks cookie I"m going to shoot him an email...
  18. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    sideshowsideswipe, what's going on?

    from your "report" i suspect there is something mechanically wrong/broken, but i'm sorry, i don't have a clue without seeing the engine. was dennis able to help?
  19. no response from dennis I emailed dax and he asked me if I can turn the engine over by directly turning the front sprocket nut with the spark plug wrench. I haven't tried it yet, but what would it mean if I either can or can't ? it's like pulling teeth here...

    I have to;
    1)tell someone the problem,
    2)get an answer,
    3)try something else,
    4)order a part
    5)start at 1 again

    so pissed off guys...
  20. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    i know, man, bummer :?

    ok, dennis wants to know what i've been trying to figure there a solid connection from the crank-gear, thru the clutch, to the drive sprocket? i.e. is something broken, or merely misadjusted?

    the best way to diagnose this kind of issue IS static, the bike propped up so you can spin the wheel by hand, better still, chain off & spin the sprocket manually.

    lesson learned for all of us: all of these other try's have been sadly out-of-sync, when giving symptoms, you have to wait for the crowd to weigh-in & discuss it, don't jump at every reply right off...also, you have to educate yourself at least enuff to be able to technically describe your problem, the wrong terminology can get us looking for an "ignition problem" when we should be looking for a "mechanical problem" or vice-versa. also, when you're trying to help someone, qualify your level of surety, we all can make some pretty good educated guesses, but the "patient" has to know it's only your best-guess & not a sure-fix.

    sideswipe, are you willing to try this again, one step at a time? start with chain off, both side-covers off, plug in, exhaust and carb outta the way. turn the drive sprocket by hand, watching both sides of the mechanism. tell us what happens, reporting all the way thru the power-train: does sprocket spin the shaft, does flywheel/clutch turn, does it drive the crank-gear, is the piston moving? we're looking for anything stripped, chipped, or slipping, it could be any one of those points, look closely enuff to be sure, don't assume anything. noise, & where it's coming from, is important, too.