One way bearing clutch

chainmaker

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I am looking for a a thread I saw with a how to for modifying a max torque clutch with levers to allow pedal starting. Can anyone help with that info?

Or can anyone supply a lead to a vendor that sells a one way bearing clutch?
 
The only clutch with a one-way bearing for starting using the MaxTorque clutch was supplied by Whizzer USA and was made by 3rd Mil. The clutch was a short production unit because of cost [retailed for $600.00].

I just completed making a new version of the clutch [see Whizzer newsletter for December 2012] and is still in testing. The new "super" clutch uses belt drive in both primary and secondary. So far I have logged approx 500 miles on the test clutch, and will soon be accepting bids from fabrication shops to produce the new clutch.

Have fun,
 
max torque I guess so.....still a whizzer auto clutch will do what you need for less than $200 and they're available now.
 
I've had a 3rd. millennium auto clutch since January of 2004 on my 99 whizzer, this is and has been a great auto clutch. I remember buying them at about $300.00
then in 2005 they sold for $199.00 the remaining balance sold for $135.00
someone thought that they had cost to much.
pics of 3rd a/c on 99 whizzer

Ray
 

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doesnt look at all like what Joe in Tawain is selling on ebay, though his are improved now with wider shoes and hardened where the bearing rides now....people keep piping in about perceived problems others have filled their heads with.
 
Just for the record,.. the clutch made by Joe Lin in Tiawan Doesn't work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is the reason I have designed a new clutch, as I have 9 of the latest versions laying on my shop floor.

The lastest version is without a doubt the worst ever made, and the problems are many.........

The beraing sleeve "snaps" off the hub. The springs were way off on the first one [meaning no one tested them prior to sale], and the current springs cause late enguagement. The clutch is much wider and the belts run at a bad angle [causing severe belt wear]. The current version can't have the soft bearing sleeve replace because there isn't enough shaft to support the hardened sleeve. The unit doesn't have a seal on the inside to stop the grease from drifting onto the shoes [can you say slick?].

The new clutches as so bad, I haven't determined a way to fix them, which is why I decided to make a "real" working clutch.


I too have several of the original Whizzer clutches made by 3rd Mil., and I don't like the fact that all the belts must be changed, and the clutch requires constant adjustment, as it isn't spring loaded [to keep the belts tight]. One problem with the original 3rd Mil version is the assumption the sheeve on the rear wheel is centered, which they seldom are. If the sheeve is out of center [as most are], the belt will tighten and slacken as the wheel turns, this is the main reason the spring tension is needed.

I and several other Whizzer collectors have modified the original 3rd Mil version to run on the stock clutch arm and use the spring to keep the belts tight. The problem is the smaller drive pulley used on the 3rd Mil version and it causes the front belt to contact the belt guard mounting posts. Just relieve[grind] the posts on the bottom where the belt travels and you can mount the 3rd Mil on the original arm. A polished, hardened mounting bolt must be used as the needle bearings need a good surface to work.

Have fun,
 
centering a sheeve isnt hard to do, and really the clutches do work or the bikes wouldn't move...and the bearing sleeve?soft really? You sure find alot of things wrong with anything you aren't selling. Kinda curious why you even bother with "junk" as you put it...these newer whizzers.
 
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