Just for the record,.. the clutch made by Joe Lin in Tiawan Doesn't work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is the reason I have designed a new clutch, as I have 9 of the latest versions laying on my shop floor.
The lastest version is without a doubt the worst ever made, and the problems are many.........
The beraing sleeve "snaps" off the hub. The springs were way off on the first one [meaning no one tested them prior to sale], and the current springs cause late enguagement. The clutch is much wider and the belts run at a bad angle [causing severe belt wear]. The current version can't have the soft bearing sleeve replace because there isn't enough shaft to support the hardened sleeve. The unit doesn't have a seal on the inside to stop the grease from drifting onto the shoes [can you say slick?].
The new clutches as so bad, I haven't determined a way to fix them, which is why I decided to make a "real" working clutch.
I too have several of the original Whizzer clutches made by 3rd Mil., and I don't like the fact that all the belts must be changed, and the clutch requires constant adjustment, as it isn't spring loaded [to keep the belts tight]. One problem with the original 3rd Mil version is the assumption the sheeve on the rear wheel is centered, which they seldom are. If the sheeve is out of center [as most are], the belt will tighten and slacken as the wheel turns, this is the main reason the spring tension is needed.
I and several other Whizzer collectors have modified the original 3rd Mil version to run on the stock clutch arm and use the spring to keep the belts tight. The problem is the smaller drive pulley used on the 3rd Mil version and it causes the front belt to contact the belt guard mounting posts. Just relieve[grind] the posts on the bottom where the belt travels and you can mount the 3rd Mil on the original arm. A polished, hardened mounting bolt must be used as the needle bearings need a good surface to work.
Have fun,