Perfect header length

[Deleted member 12676]

more back pressure is not the goal. the right amount of back pressure is the goal.
the midsection has no direct affect. it only sets the timing between the return diffuser wave and the return baffle wave. Its width is only a byproduct of cone angles. People who don't fully understand the subject make comments about how the belly diameter has certain effects.

 

[cRazy_styleR]

Ok, I'll ask you directly: If you want to change your exhaust... For example, you want to put two silencers... Is there a way, to modify something so that the back pressure amount is right?

That's the real question.. You have experience, so what do You think?

 

[Deleted member 12676]

It's all about the outflow resistance. more/bigger openings=less resistance

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

Well I finally got the header made. I cut a bent pipe into pieces and sharpened the angles. The pipe really adds power. ALOT! 2 or 3 times more I would say. It works from the very start and I have a 35 tooth rear gear on the bike. The clutch pads can't hold the power, I will have to do something with that. It's really nice though. I'll have to get a stinger and muffler on it now ;-)



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3r5gdxDxRE&feature=youtu.be

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wV0ddAcenl8

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3r5g...ature=youtu.be

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wV0ddAcenl8

 

[Deleted member 12676]

Watching the video I can tell you have good acceleration.
Isn't the clutch spring preload adjustable? (to put more pressure on the pads)
What did you make the pipe out of?
It looks really good!

 

[Deleted member 12676]

I did a forum search and GearNut had this to say about increasing clutch pad tension:

The main clutch spring that squeezes the clutch together is inside the transmission case, between the clutch and final drive sprocket. It is adjustable from the outside of the cases.
1. Remove clutch cable from engine.
2. Remove sprocket cover with clutch release lever.
3. Remove clutch cable stop from top of transmission. It just unscrews after loosening the lock nut that binds against the top of the transmission housing.
4. Find a strong flat bladed screwdriver that fits snugly down into the hole that the clutch cable stop was threaded into.
5. The spring adjusting nut is basically a threaded collar with 4 notches, equally spaced, cut around it's circumference. The trick here is to rotate the final drive sprocket with channel lock pliers or similar tool that will not damage the sprocket teeth.
Rotate the sprocket while pressing down on the screwdriver until you feel the screwdriver slip down into one of the 4 notches of the spring adjusting collar.
Once the screwdriver fits into one of the notches, the sprocket and sprocket shaft should be difficult to turn.
6. Hold the adjusting nut inside the cases stationary with the screwdriver and turn the sprocket clockwise to tighten the main clutch spring.
Do not adjust is too tight as doing so will only make squeezing the clutch lever harder, strain the clutch cable, and accelerate wear on the clutch release components inside the cases.
1/2 to 1 full turn should be plenty, but you may have to experiment a little (read do all of this over a few times).
7. re-asemble everything back together, adjust your clutch cable and flower nut back to "normal", and enjoy a clutch that actually puts proper pressure onto the clutch pads.

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

Watching the video I can tell you have good acceleration.
Isn't the clutch spring preload adjustable? (to put more pressure on the pads)
What did you make the pipe out of?
It looks really good!

My friends at the Rasta Bike building shop here in Moscow helped me. They bent a piece of steel pipe as much as they could and I cut it up and tacked it together. They welded it, but it leaks oil a little. It's a good header though. Here's a video of their recent Victory Day ride in Moscow. The 9th of May is still celebrated as the end of WWII. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=teZpqSTaSqc

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

Thanks! I'll give it a try! =-)

I did a forum search and GearNut had this to say about increasing clutch pad tension:

The main clutch spring that squeezes the clutch together is inside the transmission case, between the clutch and final drive sprocket. It is adjustable from the outside of the cases.
1. Remove clutch cable from engine.
2. Remove sprocket cover with clutch release lever.
3. Remove clutch cable stop from top of transmission. It just unscrews after loosening the lock nut that binds against the top of the transmission housing.
4. Find a strong flat bladed screwdriver that fits snugly down into the hole that the clutch cable stop was threaded into.
5. The spring adjusting nut is basically a threaded collar with 4 notches, equally spaced, cut around it's circumference. The trick here is to rotate the final drive sprocket with channel lock pliers or similar tool that will not damage the sprocket teeth.
Rotate the sprocket while pressing down on the screwdriver until you feel the screwdriver slip down into one of the 4 notches of the spring adjusting collar.
Once the screwdriver fits into one of the notches, the sprocket and sprocket shaft should be difficult to turn.
6. Hold the adjusting nut inside the cases stationary with the screwdriver and turn the sprocket clockwise to tighten the main clutch spring.
Do not adjust is too tight as doing so will only make squeezing the clutch lever harder, strain the clutch cable, and accelerate wear on the clutch release components inside the cases.
1/2 to 1 full turn should be plenty, but you may have to experiment a little (read do all of this over a few times).
7. re-asemble everything back together, adjust your clutch cable and flower nut back to "normal", and enjoy a clutch that actually puts proper pressure onto the clutch pads.

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

The steel pipe is 1.5 mm thick, the same they use to build bicycles with. The inner diameter is 25mm and the outer 28mm. It was just perfect.