Pick Bike Or Motor Kit First?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by BikerInFla, Apr 16, 2011.

  1. BikerInFla

    BikerInFla New Member

    Hi All,

    Building my first MB and looking to Wally World to purchase my
    26" Beach Cruzer ...

    26" Huffy or Schwinn

    Schwinn of course more but is it built better to hold the motor + vibration issues.

    Buying a 48cc motor kit

    Thanks

    Rick:evilgrin:
     

  2. Wheres my dog

    Wheres my dog Banned

    First hand experience here...

    Can't say either is better built, the better the bike the more reliable it will be... as in you get what you pay for!

    First thing you should do when you get that new bike home from wally world is GO OVER EVERYTHING and make sure EVERYTHING is tightened and adjusted correctly!!!

    Remember... some kid in the back room is mass building these things and has to meet a quota

    Personally, I would go with the Schwinn
     
  3. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Well-Known Member

    Sounds like you have a good plan and the Huffy or Schwinn will work. Whatever you choose, add a front brake if it doesn't have one. Adding a BMX caliper brake to the front doesn't cost much, will clear your fender, is easy to install and can prevent a painful accident.
    To answer your question about choosing motor or bike first; it depends. A China Girl 2 stroke will fit in darn near any frame. If you like a four stroke motor, you are limited to a frame with a lot of open space, like a beach cruiser. If you want a rack mounted motor, almost any bike, including full suspension, will do. There is no correct answer that fits everybody.
     
  4. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    which ever bike you choose, do as "wheresmydog" said...go over EVERYTHING.
    this means take apart both the front and rear axles, clean the junk grease off the bearings and re-pack the bearings with good quality bearing grease. also, do the same with the headset bearings and the crank bearings as well.
    make sure all bearings are adjusted properly when you put everything back together and you should be good to go for awhile. when they assemble these big box bikes, they are literally thrown together and they use the bottom of the barrel grease on the bearings...literally.
    by personally going over the wholr bike before you even put a motor on it, will ensure that the bike itself is ready to go.
    do not just go buy a bike and throw a motor on it....you'll be asking for problems later on down the road.
     
  5. BikerInFla

    BikerInFla New Member

    wow .. thanks guys for the responses ...

    will make a stop at the auto parts store after purchasing bike to get
    some top the line grease.

    Sounds like vibration is an issue as well from my readings here .. think
    I will visit the local hardware store to change the standard bicycle machine nuts to the ones they call "serrated flange nuts" .. little more resistant to
    vibrations

    Thanks again .. will keep you posted on my progress

    :tt1:
     
  6. wbuttry

    wbuttry Member

    i noticed on the huffy cranbrook it comes with the heavy duty spokes and mine was packed with good grease when i bought it i got a friend that assembles bike in walmart i brought him a grease gun full of heavy duty lithium grease the red stuff it a synthetic type and it is awesome when he installed it he took the axles loose filled them full and he even says it rolls a lot easier than with the other grease ............
     
  7. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    This right here shows the lack of experience by the wal mart biike builder. Filling the hubs full of grease is not how to correctly pack a set of bearings. Hubs full of grease can actually do more harm than good because too much grease can make a coaster brake not work.(if it has a coaster brake.).
    The correct way to grease wheel bearings is first, take the whole hub assembly apart and clean all of the existing grease off of everything.
    Then, pack the bearings by pressing the bearing face into a pile of grease in the palm of your hand, allowing the grease to fill the bearing cages.
    Put some grease in the sprocket housing where the sprocket threads in (for the rear wheel), and put some grease on the bearing races....that's all you need.
    the axles do not touch the insides of the hubs, so having the axles in contact with hubs full of grease does not do any good at all. The bearing cones support the axle, the hub doesn't
    actually.
     
  8. toojung2die

    toojung2die Member

    Effective, but messy. I like to throw a blob of grease into a zip-lock bag along with the bearing. Work the grease in the bag into the bearing. It gets the grease in there and less ends up on my hands. Save the bag of grease for the next bearing.
     
  9. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    yep this way will work as well....as long as the grease gets packed into the bearing cage.
    I don't mind getting my hands dirty.
     
  10. buzbikebklyn1

    buzbikebklyn1 New Member

    Bike or engine first? that is the question...
    Id say bike first, then you can measure the frame to see what kind of engine you want, i've been building alot of 4 stroke beach type cruisers lately, they make for very dependable strong bikes.
    I agree with everyone's advice on going over the entire bike before riding it.
    those nuts you were reffering to are called
    Nylock nuts, because they have a nylon insert that wont vibrate loose, and are worth the extra cost and effort.
    BIG A$$ BRAKES! front and rear, as good as you can afford.
    Have the wheels re trued, you would be surprised how loose they are from the factory.
    Mind your final gearing(rear sprocket) you dont want to over rev a tiny little 2 stroke to much it kills engine life.
    Ask lots of questions.
    Good luck
    BBB
     
  11. wbuttry

    wbuttry Member

    thats why i do my own maintence on bikes but i had him fill mine full of course i got coaster brakes which i dont use because i got caliper brakes on it any way and he did clean out the old grease before he done it i didnt make my self clear i was in there with him while he done it i dont have no hills here so the coaster is just a thing i use my calipers more than anything .
     
  12. BikerInFla

    BikerInFla New Member

    Buz ... the ones you are talking about are different from the serrated ones but come to think of it will be better .. just couldn't remember the name of them.. .thanks

    All of you guys have been great with responses ... Thanks :cool:
     
  13. BikerInFla

    BikerInFla New Member

    to get rid of the grease completely I would soak then in some mineral spirits
    . you have got to think there are maybe little metal pieces left over from the manufacturing of the hub ... I guess that's why there is a break in period on car engines and parts... or am I being little to @n@l here :)
     
  14. toojung2die

    toojung2die Member

    The order of purchase doesn't matter when you have a good plan in mind. I bought the engine first because I found what I wanted at a good price right away. Finding the type of bicycle I wanted took longer; an old steel frame beach cruiser. I hit the jackpot when a friend gave me the old Galaxy Flyer she had rotting away in her garage. Her junk became my treasure. A complete tear down of the bicycle to the last nut and bolt was required. A bare frame is easiest to paint. All the bearings got Super Lube synthetic grease with Teflon.
     
  15. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

  16. Porkchop

    Porkchop Member

    The only bicycle I've ever bought already assembled was a 1981 Schwinn continental which I still have. It was purchased from a local Schwinn dealer that is still in business here. That bike is one of the old real Schwinns that was built here in Chicago. All other bikes I’ve bought since were still in the box. I refuse to buy a bike from a department store that’s already assembled. Reason being is I know I’m going to have to go ove it with a fine toothed comb. The folks that work in the stores and put those bikes together in general don’t know Jack about bikes. I’d much rather take it out of the box and put it together correctly the first time and get everything adjusted to my likings rather than have to redo what someone else has already made a mess of. I’ve seen bikes on the rack at WallyWorld with brakes mounted backwards and the one that really got me was the one with the front fork mounted backwards. Imagine someone not knowing much about bicycles buying something like that. Could be a bad accident or funeral in the making.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2011
  17. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Member

    Honestly if you tune and maintain the bike properly, it doesn't matter what bike you put it on, as long as it will receive whichever type of motor you plan to put on it.
     
  18. Porkchop

    Porkchop Member

    I think a lot of people here on the forum will disagree. There is definitely a big difference between steel frames and alloy frames ! Steel being the favorite material of choice.
     
  19. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Member

    When you're comparing a walmart Huffy and a walmart Schwinn, it doesn't really make much of a difference. When you put a combustion engine between your legs, the bike's specs don't make so much a difference and it's all on the motor's specs and modifications (given that you maintain the bicycle aspects of it properly). I've motored 500 dollar frames and 15 dollar frames, the end result is relatively always the same.
     
  20. Porkchop

    Porkchop Member

    I agree with what you said about Huffy vs. Schwinn. They probably both come out of the same back room for all I know. It is a well known fact though that welds on an alloy frame will break a lot easier than those on a steel frame. Regardless, the main point, as I think you mentioned is regular/routine maintenance and inspection. And by the way, as you can tell, I'm pro steel frame, however my current motor bike is an older Schwinn Hybrid, alloy frame with a friction drive. I'm sure there's a big difference in the stresses applied to the frame between a frame mount vs. friction drive. Bottom line is safety !
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
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