Prepping a bicycle before installing an engine.

oliverw123

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This information is for a typical mountain bike. After riding for a few months I realised that certain components can be removed from the bicycle yet still maintain good functionality. The purpose of this is to simplify and thus make the bicycle less prone to failure and easier to maintain.

First thing I do is get rid of all gear cabling. You don't need to change gears with the engine installed but you still want to have the ability to pedal if say, you run out of petrol. Disconnect cable (and remove) front derailleur and disconnect cable on rear derailleur. You can go as far to remove the front upper chain rings but leave the bottom smaller one, looks neater and saves a little weight. Now your chain will by default sit on the smaller chain ring on the rear cassette. This makes it too hard to get going with all that weight so all you need to do is adjust the screw on the derailleur that shifts the chain up the chain ring as far as it will go to enable easier pedaling. It should sit somewhere in the middle. Remove the shifter components from the handlebar. Now you have more space to install the throttle and clutch lever.

The bike will be quite a bit heavier with the engine and other components so it is a good idea to grease wheel bearings liberally and also the pedal crank bearings, using good grease. Use good brake pads front and rear too.

If you don't have front shocks, balloon tyres will make the ride a lot softer, this I would recommend anyway regardless of front shock.

I forgot to add, get rid of the kill switch. Use the choke or release the clutch to kill the engine. After 5 years running, my clutch ppads were hardly worn.
 
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Hmmm, I use the pedals and gears all the time, mainly so Johnny Law doesn't stop me for riding an unlicensed scooter, but also for exercise and speed when I want it. You are right, the handlebars do get cluttered. 2 shifters plus one for choke and I use another for a thumb throttle.

I've burnt out 2 rear wheel bearings (different wheels) in a couple thousand miles. Good advice on the grease.

BRAKES! Oh yes! Last year I didn't know much about bike brakes, but if you wanna stop, ya gotta learn.
Linear-pull brakes, AKA direct-pull brakes, AKA Shimano's trademark V-brakes are the way to go in rim brakes.
vbrake-overallsm.jpg


Also not bad are dual pivot center pull brakes. The dual pivots near the braking surface are key to success:
800px-Bicycle_centre_pull_brakes.jpg


If you plan on any significant speed (over 20mph) avoid at all costs single pivot brakes. TOO MUCH flex to stop well.
Bicycle_brakes_-_animated.gif


Also avoid chromed rims, slippery as eel slime when wet. Aluminum rims seem a bit better but I notice mine wearing significantly.

Look up bicycle brakes on Wikipedia and get schooled. Stopping is more important than going.

Going over every nut and bolt to make sure it is right is good advice. Read some books on bike care is important.

HOLY SPOKES! Loose spokes are a big problem. Learn how to tighten them just right and how to true the wheel and sprocket.
full


full


A piece of wire might do, but nice to have some fancy rocket science tools in your box.
Dial indicator and magnetic base for less than $50 at Harbor Freight or Princess Auto.
 
Also if you get a mb from kmart for $80 everything will wear out in 2 months you get what you pay for . $2 brakes pads are good and cheap but $5 brakes pads will be better and so on and on something like brakes it can save your life to pay more .
 
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Also avoid chromed rims, slippery as eel slime when wet. Aluminum rims seem a bit better but I notice mine wearing significantly.
……......

You might like Ryde CSS (carbide supersonic coated) rims, supposed to last 4 times longer and the "top choice [of rim brake rims] among RTW cyclists". The Andra 40 is 25mm internal width too, so stiff as anything. :)
http://www.ryde.nl/css_1
 
This information is for a typical mountain bike. After riding for a few months I realised that certain components can be removed from the bicycle yet still maintain good functionality. The purpose of this is to simplify and thus make the bicycle less prone to failure and easier to maintain.

First thing I do is get rid of all gear cabling. You don't need to change gears with the engine installed but you still want to have the ability to pedal if say, you run out of petrol. Disconnect cable (and remove) front derailleur and disconnect cable on rear derailleur. You can go as far to remove the front upper chain rings but leave the bottom smaller one, looks neater and saves a little weight. Now your chain will by default sit on the smaller chain ring on the rear cassette. This makes it too hard to get going with all that weight so all you need to do is adjust the screw on the derailleur that shifts the chain up the chain ring as far as it will go to enable easier pedaling. It should sit somewhere in the middle. Remove the shifter components from the handlebar. Now you have more space to install the throttle and clutch lever.

The bike will be quite a bit heavier with the engine and other components so it is a good idea to grease wheel bearings liberally and also the pedal crank bearings, using good grease. Use good brake pads front and rear too.

If you don't have front shocks, balloon tyres will make the ride a lot softer, this I would recommend anyway regardless of front shock.

I have done 2 mountain bikes that way. Remove the front derailleur and all but the smallest front sprocket. Remove both shifters and both cables. Put the chain on the largest rear sprocket, and adjust the rear derailleur so it stays put. At this point it is nothing more than a chain tensioner, and you are in the lowest gear the bike has. If motorized bikes are legal in your area, you don't need to pretend to pedal, but you will need to pedal every time you take off from a stop. Being in the lowest gear ratio will help considerably there. As for exercise, I'm past the point where I can pedal a bike more than a few revolutions of the crank, so that part doesn't matter. That's why I have a motor.
 
This is my bike. The engine has been running for 5 years and has probably 20 000km on it. The odometer I had stopped at 999 and that was 4 years ago. The engine used to be on another bicycle which was driven over, don't ask. It was a similar bike which I stripped completely and had the frame epoxy coated glossy black. I also had a fuel tank mounted behind the seat which I will do to this one too.
 

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So you don't need the rear gear shifter for the bike? Reason I ask is cuz the shifter is physically part of the break lever and I want to install a double brake. By removing my break lever I lose control of the gears. Do I need them?
 
My advice for prepping the bike ,
1) remove wheels open up the bearings pump full of grease , or install a grease nipple on the axel if possible then put back on.
2) check the bottom bracket bearing same procedure.
3)if a cheap bike replace the brake pads at very least , else fit a disc brake one from minimoto/pocketbike will do.
4) make sure every nut and bolt is tight/secure.
Done just 4 steps , removing the derailed will make no weight difference gain nothing and lose all your gears why?
 
I would be removing the thumb 7 speed gear shifter. Do I need to be able to shift bicycle gears with kit. Can I do without the ability to shift gears on a 7 speed bike(right hand side rear wheel)
 
I'd say leave unless you have no hills anywhere near where you'll be going/could break down, you can loosen the thumb shifter and move it over or turn it upside down?
 
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