Clutch Problems with my bike! CLutch And Chain cover!

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by tskrem, Aug 1, 2009.

  1. tskrem

    tskrem Member

    ok, i am not sure about my clutch setup?? pics below..
    also i have a problem with my chain cover. the screws screwed up! its annoying!:annoyed:

    Pics
     

    Attached Files:


  2. tskrem

    tskrem Member

    more pics
     

    Attached Files:

  3. xRegginoy

    xRegginoy Member

    Are you missing one of the screws on the clutch cover? I don't think it'll be able to operate correctly without it.
     
  4. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Your clutch cable won't last long like that, it needs to approach straight by the cylinder. That hard left is not correct.

    Cover? Missing a screw? Please use words to explain.
     
  5. the clutch cable is suposed to angle toward the right side of engine and run along the side up to the handle bars,not curved and to the back.
     
  6. tskrem

    tskrem Member

    sorry. no i couldn't get 2 screws off and now they have been stripped slightly and my screwdriver slips....
    i cant put the chain in by holding the clutch cos that clutch doesn't work.
    what do i need to change on the clutch. (sorry i am noobie)
     
  7. MikeJ

    MikeJ Member

    Hi tskrem -

    I recommend three things...

    1) To get that clutch plate off, you will have to do what the big engne builders do in a similar situation... Get a larger diameter drill and drill off the heads. Drill only deep enough to remove the screw head from the screw shank. That will allow you to remove the cover plate after you pull the cable out of the clutch arm. The two remaining studs will have to be grabbed tightly with a common pliers (probably a long one) or a vise-grips. Soak them with a penetrating oil for a day or two; this will improve you chances for success. You will not have much stud to work with and it may deform easily. So get the best grip on it you can and turn counterclockwise. If that fails, I recommend you take it to a small-engine machine shop and ask them if they can remove the studs. They probably will charge you.

    2) Re-route that clutch cable to run next to the cylinder bottom cooling fin. That angle you have is going to cause you lots of trouble. Find and study pictures of other bikes to see what I mean.

    3) Throw that small-diameter spring you have between the threaded post and the clutch arm away. The carburator already has a spring in it. If the clutch cable is routed next to the cylinder fin, the carb spring will return the throttle twist handle to its idle position when you are not holding it.

    Once the clutch plate studs are out, some guys recommend going to a harder replacement screw (metric 6mm x 1). Some guys option for hex-head screws.

    Good luck. Keep us posted for progress.
     
  8. MikeJ

    MikeJ Member

    Let me correct myself.... That small spring has nothing to do with the carburator. (DOH! as Homer Simpson would say.) The CLUTCH has enough spring in it that the external spring is unnecessary. When attaching the cable to the clutch arm, allow a very small amount of free play in the clutch action. You should be able to wiggle the arm just a little bit. This will allow the clutch to apply full pressure during running.
     
  9. tskrem

    tskrem Member

  10. tskrem

    tskrem Member

    all done. i got the cover off. i never would of thought of it but when i was about to pick a drill piece to drill the screw away i noticed a the flat head bit from the screwdriver. i put this drill piece on and then i tryed it. at the first go it slipped out so i thought it wouldnt work. i used a little force and it pulled it right out. now im gonna get some new screws at bunnings tomorrow after school. also some 'slick tape' because me chain slightly toches my frame. now all i need is a new handlebar for my bike because mine is to big in diamiter? how does that work??? anyways thats the update.
    Ohh and also:
    when i installed the accelerator the golden brass thing that is in the photos for the insterlattion isn't there? is this a problem??

    kk ty
    -tskrem
     
  11. MikeJ

    MikeJ Member

    Hi tskrem -

    That was a nice video. It is a very good troubleshooting tool.

    You got the screws out? Great! That was going to be the biggest problem. Persistance paid off! Lesson learned: Those screws do not have to be really, really tight. "Snug" is a favorite term to tighten down to. Check before every ride to ensure they remain snug, not overly tight. If damaged at all, replace them with new screws.

    You routed the clutch cable correctly. Very good!

    That small diameter spring is a nuisance more than a help. Remove it. I have yet to seen any other bike photo utilize that spring. You will note that the clutch handle will be much easier to squeeze. Try squeezing the handle without the small diameter spring; you will see what I mean.

    The brass ring is set correctly, as best as I can tell. It just has to be far enough out to allow the clutch lever to wiggle freely just a little. That will allow full clutch contact pressure to the driving gear.

    In your video, the clutch arm is not moving far enough inward when you squeeze the clutch handle. The clutch is still engaged to the driving gear. That is why you cannot move the toothed sprocket. To see better what I mean, push the clutch arm by hand or a wrench toward the cable guide after the spring is gone. When moved far enough, the toothed gear will spin with some resistance. But your fingers should be able to move it with little stress.

    To place the chain on the toothed sprocket, you will find it necessary to remove the cover again, if you have not already done so.

    If your handlebars are too big in diameter for the handles supplied in your kit, you might be able to fit a smaller (standard) diameter handle bar through the holder. There is probably a screw or bolt holding the handle bar in place. Loosen it. The handle bar should be able to simply slide from one side to the other to remove. (Be careful not to scratch it up.)To install a new handlebar may require some thought. Be prepared to call a bike shop for assistance.

    You are making good progress!

    MikeJ
     
  12. tskrem

    tskrem Member

    Yeah i have to get some new screws tonight. i have installed the chain but i need to get some links off. unsure how to do this but should work something out. i will remove the spring aswell. i might use a brake lever as a throttle?? unsure. this could maybe be temp while i find a new handle bar.
    thanks for your comments.
    -tskrem
     
  13. MikeJ

    MikeJ Member

    Use a chain breaking tool to remove links. Most bicycle shops should have them. Remove one or two links for practice; you will find that removing links is easy. The link supplied with your kit will make for easy re-assembly. Just be sure to orientate the clip so that the rounded end enters the engine sprocket before the open end. You will see what I mean when you get to that point.

    Eventually, you will find that the kit-supplied throttle will be more convenient that a lever throttle.

    Keep us posted on progress!
     
  14. tskrem

    tskrem Member

    the brass thing that is needed with connecting the throttle is missing??!!?
    were can i get 1 from and what are they called?
     
  15. tskrem

    tskrem Member

  16. MikeJ

    MikeJ Member

    tskrem -

    Now that is just plain bad luck! You received an incomplete product that was obviously not checked before leaving the manufacturer. That should not have ever happened!

    Here are some thoughts... In Australia, there is a dealer named
    http://www.rocksolidengines.com.au/spares.htm.

    According to advertising on MotoredBikes.com, they sell spare parts. Ask them for a "carburetor slide"; that is the barrel-shaped small item that appeared in your video as missing. Maybe they will have one spare laying around. Maybe they will have a used carb that they will sell at half price. They might want to see your video.

    You could try contacting other dealers that sponsor this site and ask them for this item. Shipping costs will be more than the slide costs.

    Maybe contact the dealer from whom you purchased your engine. Tell him the facts and ask for a replacement part.

    Note that once you get the slide, there is a tiny protrusion in the carb that the slide's slot must mate with. Do not force this little slide into the carb. It is not called a slide for nothing!

    Keep us posted!

    MikeJ
     
  17. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    MikeJ is giving you good advice. (and the vids are worth 1,000,000 words) - I just say you should get a new carb/slide from whomever you bought the kit from.
     
  18. MikeJ

    MikeJ Member

    tskrem -

    One last look before you go and start calling around... Look again really closely at the cylinder of the carburetor. From the video, I **thought** I saw for a split second the part you are looking for. It is shaped like a tiny tin can with the top cut out of it, with the open end facing upward toward your eyes. The parts you pulled out sit on top of the inside bottom of the slide (Did that make sense?). The slide will come out after all other springs, clips, needle, etc., you pulled out has been removed first. Turn your carb upside down and tap it into your hand. Does anything else come out? Maybe dig it out with your little finger?

    And just a note of precaution.... I tape over any opening that lead into the engine, such as the carb intake neck, and the exhaust pipe port. You have to ensure no grit or a nut falls into the cylinder. (That happened to me. I dropped a nut into the exhaust port while the piston uncovered the port. I pretty much had to take the engine apart to retrieve the nut. And that led to way more complications that I care to profess in public.)

    I hope it is there!

    MikeJ
     
  19. tskrem

    tskrem Member

    i emailed these guys and with in 10 minutes they rang me up and offered to send me the slide for free. but 5 minutes before that i went into the shed and really dug deep into the carb and found it lol :001_07:
    so if anyone needs something for there mb buy a spare part or even a kit from these nice guys.
    Thankyou Mikej for your good eyes. My bad for not seeing it. it was really wedge in there.
     
  20. MikeJ

    MikeJ Member

    Hi tskrem -

    WOOHOO! More progress! Good for you! Chalk this all up to experience. Someday soon, you will be guiding someone else through their bike build. Your super videos were amazing help.

    Now just make sure your rear sprocket is aligned and does not wobble side to side, and the chain idler pulley is on real tight, and you are in the home stretch. You ought to be riding for the first time in a few days.

    Be sure you video an early ride! Keep us posted.

    MikeJ
     
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