MikeJ
Member
Hi tskrem -
That was a nice video. It is a very good troubleshooting tool.
You got the screws out? Great! That was going to be the biggest problem. Persistance paid off! Lesson learned: Those screws do not have to be really, really tight. "Snug" is a favorite term to tighten down to. Check before every ride to ensure they remain snug, not overly tight. If damaged at all, replace them with new screws.
You routed the clutch cable correctly. Very good!
That small diameter spring is a nuisance more than a help. Remove it. I have yet to seen any other bike photo utilize that spring. You will note that the clutch handle will be much easier to squeeze. Try squeezing the handle without the small diameter spring; you will see what I mean.
The brass ring is set correctly, as best as I can tell. It just has to be far enough out to allow the clutch lever to wiggle freely just a little. That will allow full clutch contact pressure to the driving gear.
In your video, the clutch arm is not moving far enough inward when you squeeze the clutch handle. The clutch is still engaged to the driving gear. That is why you cannot move the toothed sprocket. To see better what I mean, push the clutch arm by hand or a wrench toward the cable guide after the spring is gone. When moved far enough, the toothed gear will spin with some resistance. But your fingers should be able to move it with little stress.
To place the chain on the toothed sprocket, you will find it necessary to remove the cover again, if you have not already done so.
If your handlebars are too big in diameter for the handles supplied in your kit, you might be able to fit a smaller (standard) diameter handle bar through the holder. There is probably a screw or bolt holding the handle bar in place. Loosen it. The handle bar should be able to simply slide from one side to the other to remove. (Be careful not to scratch it up.)To install a new handlebar may require some thought. Be prepared to call a bike shop for assistance.
You are making good progress!
MikeJ
That was a nice video. It is a very good troubleshooting tool.
You got the screws out? Great! That was going to be the biggest problem. Persistance paid off! Lesson learned: Those screws do not have to be really, really tight. "Snug" is a favorite term to tighten down to. Check before every ride to ensure they remain snug, not overly tight. If damaged at all, replace them with new screws.
You routed the clutch cable correctly. Very good!
That small diameter spring is a nuisance more than a help. Remove it. I have yet to seen any other bike photo utilize that spring. You will note that the clutch handle will be much easier to squeeze. Try squeezing the handle without the small diameter spring; you will see what I mean.
The brass ring is set correctly, as best as I can tell. It just has to be far enough out to allow the clutch lever to wiggle freely just a little. That will allow full clutch contact pressure to the driving gear.
In your video, the clutch arm is not moving far enough inward when you squeeze the clutch handle. The clutch is still engaged to the driving gear. That is why you cannot move the toothed sprocket. To see better what I mean, push the clutch arm by hand or a wrench toward the cable guide after the spring is gone. When moved far enough, the toothed gear will spin with some resistance. But your fingers should be able to move it with little stress.
To place the chain on the toothed sprocket, you will find it necessary to remove the cover again, if you have not already done so.
If your handlebars are too big in diameter for the handles supplied in your kit, you might be able to fit a smaller (standard) diameter handle bar through the holder. There is probably a screw or bolt holding the handle bar in place. Loosen it. The handle bar should be able to simply slide from one side to the other to remove. (Be careful not to scratch it up.)To install a new handlebar may require some thought. Be prepared to call a bike shop for assistance.
You are making good progress!
MikeJ
