Proper engine removal help

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Txsandman, May 9, 2016.

  1. Txsandman

    Txsandman New Member

    Hi, ive got a Skyhawk 5 motor which had tab great for me. Recently though, I lightly scraped the exhaust on a step/curb. When I got home I noticed one of the two bolts that was holding the exhaust pipe had rattled loose. The threads in the aluminum stripped out.

    I plan to use tap and die changing from 6mm to 1/4". I don't have enough space to do this this with motor mounted obviously. So my question is what have I got to do besides remove the mounting brackets to remove the motor? Help is kindly appreciated. (Turned fuel line off)
    Easiest way to free clutch line? Or arm? Etc..
     

  2. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Don't mean to be a smart a$$ but you can take everything off by the total opposite of what you did to put it on.
    If you weren't the one who put it on then you would just take off the fuel line, clutch and spark plug wire
     
  3. Txsandman

    Txsandman New Member

    So pull the clutch arm or take the cable out? (I did not build it, obviously.)
     
  4. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    There should be a brass cable lock with a screw in it, you would loosen that screw and pull it off the cable then your cable should pull though
    I'm not very good at describing parts as you can tell since it sounds good in my head ;)
     
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  5. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    can usually pop that brass nipple off the arm.
    tends to damage the cable if you loosen the screw. and is a right prick to re tighten it, you need about 6 hands...


    then pop cable off from lever, and...


    you dont need to even remove the cable anyways! just leave it attached. do you really need to take the engine more than a few feet from the bike to work on it?
     
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  6. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    Um.. 1/4" is only a hair more than 6mm. I've never tried this but I would expect 1/4" isn't big enough to make a new thread. Just putting it out there, I expect to be corrected..
     
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  7. Txsandman

    Txsandman New Member

    You are correct buddy, to bad I didn't see your message beforehand. Appreciate the input though.
     
  8. Timbone

    Timbone Active Member

    To tap 1/4"-20, you need a 13/64" bit. That won't work in a 6mm threaded hole. No biggie. Use a 17/64" bit and drill for 5/16"-18 threads. Measure your depth carefully and don't go too far!
     
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  9. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Or you could use self tapping screws
     
  10. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    stick with metric and go M8...
     
  11. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    It's a lot easier to find standard stuff in the states
     
  12. 45u

    45u Active Member

    I would repair it by putting a helicoil in it then this puts it back to the original size and you will have stainless steel threads. Most machine shops have the kits if you do not want to buy one as they are about $30 or maybe more as I have not bought one in a while as I have all the kits I need.
     
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  13. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    define standard?

    standard as is used by virtually the whole world? metric, ISO.

    or standard as is used in just one particular country that also uses quaint units of measurement? imperial.

    strange that "imperial" was originally british, (who even now have gone metric) and the first country to "declare independence" from the imperial regime, decided to stick with the "imperial regime's" measurements...
     
  14. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Standard is what people in the states call normal, why change now? Metric is too easy;)
     
  15. Txsandman

    Txsandman New Member

    BTW I did end up finding a friend with heli coil
    I ended up finding someone who let me have some of their 1/4" helicoil. Got it installed and it's held up nicely
     
  16. Steve Best

    Steve Best Active Member

    Ah now that the problem is resolved, back to the "standard/metric" blather:
    Very fittingly, exactly 200 years after they declared independence, the USA went officially metric in 1976.
    40 years later it seems not all got the memo.

    As for pulling the engine for rethreading repair, I would just pull the cylinder.
    You have the exhaust removed, 2 more nuts remove the intake, 4 head nuts - BAMMM!
    Slide the head off, slide the cylinder off, WHAM! There it is in your hand, easy to work on.
    Ideally you either didn't damage the gaskets, have new ones or cut some out of empty soda cans.
    Slide it all back together, torque the nuts so they don't strip or loosen and SHABANG! Yer ridin'!

    Steve
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2016
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