Tubes Puncture Free Tire?

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by BTB Wild, Oct 8, 2007.

  1. BTB Wild

    BTB Wild Guest

    How many of you guys have taken the extra step to install a puncture free tire? Why not simply carry a small bottle of SLIME and a hand pump in your bag? Before I install my kit ( received today) I'd like to consider why I should bother with a tire upgrade? Seems to me a few onces of SLIME and my mini-pump will weigh far less.
    I found an entry level Schwinn ( called a "Clear Creek" 18 speed) with a seat post shock and front shocks. The frame and fork drop-out seem to meet the criteria for a simple install. ( I'll post pics later) Now..about the tire? Thanks.
     

  2. mickey

    mickey Guest

    I got a couple of punctures and switched to a pre-slimed tube. All good since.

    I looked at the ClearCreek and it didn't have enough room to fit a Happy Times into it. Are you going rackmount?

    Mickey
     
  3. BTB Wild

    BTB Wild Guest

    Clear Creek

    Yep, I'm going rack mount with the Tanaka 33cc. I bought the Schwinn a few days ago. I was second guessing the whole idea of putting the motor on my GT i-drive 3.0 bike. I love the GT just as it is so I figured I'd try the kit on a new bike and see what happens.
    The Clear Creek seems to fit the criteria for an easy GEBE install. But I'm sure I'll find several ways to make the install difficult.:oops:
     
  4. smapadatha

    smapadatha Guest

    My current flat defense system is:
    1. Kevlar tires: Schwalbe Big Apple 2.35" on the front and a Armadillo Hemisphere 1.95" on the back.
    2. Mr. Tuffy liners front and back.
    3. Downhill tubes front and back; as thick as thorn-resistant tubes, but all the way around.
    4. Road kit contains 2 spare tubes, patch kit, C02 cartridges and C02 dispenser; plus a Snickers bar because those things really *are* satisfying.

    I can't say you *should* upgrade. There are a number of flatproofing systems out there, each with its pros and cons. One problem with doing research on the internet is that, no matter what product you are looking up, you always find 50 people who loved it and 50 people who hated it.

    When I was researching flatproofing systems, I spoke to 2 local bike mechanics who had tried the Slime system and didn't like it. I can't remember why though. Since then I guess I've been a little prejudiced against it. Also, the solution I use works, so I have no motivation to change.

    BTW: interesting review of air free tires:
    http://felixwong.com/news/2006/12/air-free-tires/

    Maybe... but once you put an engine on your bike, you no longer have to worry about every gram. Motorized bikes are sometimes called "engine assist", but the motor puts out so much more power than an average person, it's really you assisting the engine, not the reverse. I go up steep hills at about 10-15 mph using an R/S 35cc which is hauling close to 300 pounds, so I don't worry about saving a few grams with a mini-pump.

    Personally I think those little teeny bike pumps are for the birds. I used one once - NEVER AGAIN! The C02 solution is more expensive up front, but if you spend the money on a decent flatproofing solution, you will very rarely need to fill your tires on the road, so it is almost a one-time expense.

    Hope this helps,

    -Sam
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 8, 2007
  5. BTB Wild

    BTB Wild Guest

    Thanks Sam for the good info. I like the CO2 idea. I bought a CO2 kit for my ATV so it makes sense to carry it on my bike. I like a pneumatic tire. I routinely carry a tire gauge and I usually inflate my tires on the high side before a ride. I'll release some air depending on riding conditions ( off road, gravel etc) and match the tire pressure between tires using the gauge.
    I don't think I need to " fix" the bike on the road......the goal would simply be to get back to my start point. I heard SLIME gums up the wheel etc. but it still makes more sense to me than lugging tools, dropping the wheel and engine, and trying to repair on location.
    I guess I'm answering my own question. But then again thsi is my first experience with a motorized bike so I'm sure my opinions will change.:-/
     
  6. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    I have heard instances of slime filled tubes getting hot from the higher speeds that we do, causing them to burst
    no personal experience, but I have heard of it happening
     
  7. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    $7 slime tubes will hold air for months at a time, $10 puncture resistant will too.

    If nothing else, concentrate on the back.

    I will tell you ONE absolute truth about the new speeds and wheels. The little rubber gasket covering the spoke ends is too thin to withstand the speed and consistent air pressure on better tubes, and THAT is just as likely a place to cause a flat as road debris.

    Three layers of something (I use electric tape) will stop that future hassle....
     
  8. DougC

    DougC Guest

    I hate those things--the cheap plastic bands they use for tube/spoke protection now! They're useless. Whenever I get new wheels or a new bike, I pay a couple bucks for a pair of fabric adhesive rim tape and toss the plastic band in the trash. The fabric rim tape has worked for decades.

    .....
    My motored-bike isn't really running yet. I have some while Kenda tires for it, dunno what I'll do about the flat tire situation for that.

    On my commuting/city bike, I use flat-resistant innertubes (double-thick in the tread area) inside of Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires and no slime. The city bike is the one that I ride around in town at night and cannot possibly avoid every sharp object on the ground. No flats so far, after a few months of city riding.
    .....
    The Marathon Plus's are a very puncture-resistant tire but the widest they come is 1.75 inches. On a regular 15-mph bicycle that works for me but I weigh about 280 lbs; on a 30-mph motor bicycle I'd want fatter 2.25" tires.

    On my long-distance bicycle I use regular tubes and regular Kenda Kwest tires, and I don't ride in the debris. I take the right-side of the lane and usually make cars pass around me, I simply refuse to ride through lots of road grit. I carry a pump, patch kit and spare tubes but it's pretty rare that I get any flat tires. I'll probably put Marathon Plus's on this bike too, when I wear the rear Kenda out. The Marathon Plus's cost $50 each and I have to mail-order them anyway, so I'm in no hurry.

    I've never tried it myself, but I understand that Slime is a mixed bag overall. Works great much of the time, but is rather a mess when it doesn't.

    I haven't tried the air-free tires. They must be ordered according to your weight and I have read it online that they are made of urethane instead of rubber and they don't have very good traction when the road is wet.

    --------

    Of all these, the only one that's certain is (-maybe-) the airless tires. I've heard of people doing all this other stuff and still getting flats.
    ~
     
  9. larymor

    larymor Guest

    I have close to 300 miles on my MB and no flats yet. ( Knock on wood ).... I have the stock tire and tube. I run a R/S35 from GEBE on a 26" mountain bike, a $100 aluminum full suspension elcheapo bike. So far so good.
     
  10. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Jack ordered a pair of $30 kevlar 2.25's, I'm getting one of those for Rocinante's rear. I've only been usind $12 stock Kendas since bike number one, but this is the single improvement made to the tube/liner/electric tape combo.
     
  11. az cra-z

    az cra-z Guest

    I've seen a "slimed" tire blow up, one heck of a mess! Took the owner (not me, fortunately) days to clean it all up. Also, you'll NEVER get a patch to stick to any tube with slime in it. I've had great success with all the Kevlar tires I've run (Armadillo and Performance Store house brand).
     
  12. Hive

    Hive Guest

    Keep It Simple and Logical

    After all the work installing the engine and drive train;

    And knowing the rear rack will be no fun to deal with when removing the rear wheel to fix;


    And the fact that the rear wheel is the main support for you and the added 12 pounds of engine and whatever else;

    Isn't it false economy to rationalize using anything but a very puncture resistant rear tire?

    Specialized Armadillo or the Schwalbe tires and maybe others are spendy, but offer worry free running.
     
  13. Vaughn@Gebe

    Vaughn@Gebe Guest

    Vaughn here,
    I thought you folks might be interested in this site: http://www.nu-teck.com/

    Now before I go any further we have no personal experience with them but several long-time customers have recommended them with flying colors. They offer "solid" bicycle tire replacements at a great price.

    Hopefully this will help some of you guys, if anyone does try one of these please post your experiences with them. :D
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
  14. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    i've ridden on the "ocelot flat-out" which is made by kiktire.com...nu-tech offers the same tire as the "26 X 2.0 mountain: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=72921&postcount=13

    it's a doable alternative, but rim-size is very critical. i still have the set and install tool and would let them go very cheaply to another member.
     
  15. BTB Wild

    BTB Wild Guest

    I decided to go with kevlar mountain bike tires ( X1.95) and SmartTubes by SLIME.
    Claims to seal punctures of 1/8". 5X thicker and lasts 5X longer than a conventional tube. These babies are very thick yet installed quite easily. Well see how they hold up.
    With regard to exploding tires.... perhaps a simple before and after tire pressure measurement after a "hot" ride. ( high sustained speed and/or hot day) would give some insight as to pressure expansion and adjust air pressure within range.
     
  16. EXPLODE is a better word. Stuffing your tire with dirt and leaves is no fun when you're 10 miles away.
    I had pre slimed tubes with kelvar tires and there were bits and pieces of tube inside. It was hot out.
    Solid rubber tires are heavy yes. But you are in a MOTORIZED BIKE!
    Once it get's moving there is NO DIFFERENCE in weight or anything.
    My rear tire does do a little hop dance now though but some usually get lucky and winds up with a smooth tire,but I'm used to it now.
    No more flats. That's assurance.
    Wal Mart carries them,but they go fast. I had to go to two different stores.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 11, 2007
  17. OldPete

    OldPete Guest

    I like air in my kevlar lined tires. I use pre-slimed tubes AND Mr. Tuffy tire liners. Spare pre-slimed tubes, CO2 and a tire pump are carried on all trips.
    For me the jury is still out on airless tires. Please Google Sheldon Brown+tires. The best of luck to those that go airless, please do report back after several hundred miles. :)
     
  18. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    i would love to be able to build a motoredbike around these airless tires, an asphalt-roadster. but, the low-profile eats up a lot of potential top-end, a huge drawback. another is that they require a very narrow rim to seat (and handle) correctly. i was in close contact with the owner of kik during my early miles, he was very helpful and quite interested in how they performed with an engine...i truly believe it's a great option under the right conditions, and i think this is another part of the market MBc could help define if there was an interest.

    i'm using a set of hutchinson "acrobat" tires with bell-branded major-thick slime tubes right now...i have no complaints.
     
  19. Put in my Mr Tuffy tire liners, and very thick tubes, (those weigh a few pounds..lol), about 900 miles ago. No flats!! (knock on wood). Runnin' generic 2.125X26 whitewall tires I got for $14.95 ea, at my local bike shop with them. I can't remember the brand of tire, but they are not kevlar re-inforced....lol....Definitely some K-mart specials. I'd say the Mr Tuffy's are mostly responsible for my worry-free tires. :)
     
  20. I've said this all over this forum but since this one got bumped,I'm gonna chime in again.
    NoMoreFlats is good ONLY if you have a PERFECTLY STRAIGHT AND TRUE wheel.
    You WILL notice the SLIGHTEST imperfections.
    I'm running the gel tubes again at 30 PSI. This is less than minimum tire pressure recommendation. It's still inflated well at 30 and this insures against an explosion. Just by feeling the tires it seems to run cooler but this could be my imagination.
    So far,I haven't exploded again so I think I got it.
    Also with any tube,inflate the tube a little just so it makes the donut shape THEN install it preferably by hand.This gets rid of any kinks and/or twists in the tube.
    I had a slow leak in my gel tube and it wasn't my nipple. I took it off the rim and discovered a twist in my tube. I leaked right at the part of the twist that wasn't pressing on the tire/rim.I initially installed it uninflated.I fixed the kink and put the same tube back. Fixed it. No more leaks.
    That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it.
     
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