Puncture-resistant tyres for friction drives

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by mifletz, Nov 4, 2009.

  1. mifletz

    mifletz Member

    Does fitting anti-puncture linings to the inside of the tyre affect the performance/flexibility/tyre-inner tube longevity/wheel balance/rolling resistance/roller contact/heat build up/road adhesion etc, up in any adverse way?

    Are self-sealing inner tubes with anti-puncture material in them any good against thorns?

    Is it worth fitting both?

    (The puncture-resistant Kevlar tyres are $100+ each in Israel).
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2009

  2. cpuaid

    cpuaid Member

    i have my rear 26" tire with the special extra slime innertube, not the standard slime tube or manual fill slime tube. i ran over a medium size 1" nail and didn't even notice until i had green stuff all over my drive roller. the tube didn't quickly deflate as with a non-slimed one and was only slightly low. 200 miles later and it's still holding air without being re-inflated. they say slime in the front tube may cause excessive vibrations so I left my front wheel nonslimed. i put the slimed wheel on a regular bike flipped upside down and spun it... you can see it being really out of balance. i really don't notice it on my friction drive bike.
     
  3. Tinker1980

    Tinker1980 Guest

    I put a tire liner between the tire and tube on the tire I installed on my friction drive bike, and after very little riding, the liner had disintegrated into a bunch of pieces about as big as my finger.

    HOWEVER, these liners are about 15 years old... I think that new ones would hold up better.
     
  4. Bill555

    Bill555 Member

    When ever I've tried using liners on the rear tire, I've had problems with flats where the tire liner overlaps itself.
     
  5. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    I believe that just a good quality tire, & a good tube, not a cheap one, is pretty good protection.
     
  6. I put a Specialized Bikes Armadillo Hemisphere kevlar tire on the rear of my friction drive bike. The tread lasted over a year (7 month riding season here) but has begun to crack and open at the low point of the tread where the rubber is thinnest. I feel the tire on a friction drive bike can last TOO LONG. The extreme flex where the tire must bend to conform to the roller will ruin a quality tire eventually. My advice is to use a cheaper tire, wear it out, toss it, and accept the fact of life that friction drive wears out tires. I don't use slime, liners, or anything else other than good quality tubes. I've had one flat in 3 years. Most flats are a pinched tube from installation.
     
  7. cpuaid

    cpuaid Member

    i have to agree with motorbikemike45 on using cheaper tires for friction drives. they all do have a tendency to crack on the sidewalls before all of the treads are gone. i think i am one of the few riders who uses their bikes as a primary daily mode of transportation. it's not uncommon for me to put 500 miles a month on my motorized bikes (thats why i use 3 bikes/motorized kits on a rotational basis). i get punctures from slivers of metal from who knows what, braided metal strands, shards of broken glass, nails, etc..., on a monthly basis. when you're commuting @ 5 AM daily and it's pitch dark and you're speeding at an average of 30 MPH... you're not going to be able to avoid small things on the road that can give your tubes a puncture. I still stand by my assessment of using heavy duty slimed tubes on the rear wheel. that little $12 investment will prevent you a lot of grief in the long run. my $12 heavy duty slimed rear tube has outlasted 3 tires, all due to split or cracking sidewalls.
     
  8. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    I experienced a similar problem with pinch flats, the tube gets pinched where the tire liner laps as it passes under the drive spindle.

    I found through trial and error two things that cure that.

    First I found it was critical to always overlap the liner with the long end of the lap next to the underside of the tread oriented toward the front of the bike.
    Next was going with thick thorn resistant tubes also. The thicker rubber won't get pinched under the liner lap.

    3000 miles and no more problems.
     
  9. Slackbiker

    Slackbiker Member

    I have found that thorn resistant tubes seem to be the most critical element.
     
  10. Steve M.

    Steve M. New Member

    Unfortunately the Armadillo tires have a tendency to crack on the sides well before the tread is worn down, which is why I have been reluctant to buy another one for the rear of my friction drive bike. This happened on a set I had on a non powered bike years ago too.

    Here in the desert slime is a way of life due to the thorns, so my usual drill on any bike is to put thorn resistant tubes front & rear, slime, and a Mr Tuffy. The cheap tires are actually better than the expensive ones because they're thicker rubber. Kevlar in the tires means nothing to the thorns, as they are sharp enough to penetrate anything that's woven. So far so good.
     
  11. mrhook

    mrhook New Member

    Schwalbe Marathon Plus
    expensive but you will not get flats and they have no increase in rolling resistance.
     
  12. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    Yep, that is a good tire . Keep an eye out & you can catch those on sale at times. Another is a Geax" tire. I beleive it is called a " Street Runner." Long lasting, tough, has a flat area in the middle.
     
  13. I know most don't ride a 20 inch friction drive but if you do. Maxxis mirra or miracle. Dave mirras sig tires a great! Grip great I got 1000 miles on my back tire. Long range 30mph are norm for me. No pedal starting to. My tires show almost no wear. At my rate id say 3 to 5k miles before I replace my rear tire
     
  14. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    I use nomore flats tire liners and they have been great along with thorn resistant tubes. FLATS SUCK when your miles from home. The liners are thin and pliable and give a lil more beef to the tire surface when contacted with the roller.
     
  15. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    using rim tape, tire liners, green slime, Specialized tire....

    :sweatdrop: but murphys law is murphys law,dont worry too much about it and hopefully the tire gods will smile on you for a while !!!!!
     
  16. Whizzerd

    Whizzerd Member

    Great info on tires for F/D guys. I'm getting ready to do one and was wondering about wheels. Do you guys recommend a heavy duty rear wheel w/ 12 ga. spokes or is an alloy rim w/ SS 14 ga. adequate? Thanks!
     
  17. Hawaii_Ed

    Hawaii_Ed Member

    While I am not friction drive, I just added a set of Shwalbe Big Apple tires on mine. They ride great, and look like they'd be awesome on friction drive.
     
  18. mifletz

    mifletz Member

    To what sort of pressure should a tyre for friction drive be inflated?

    How deep should the roller be depressed on to the tyre: lightly or firmly?
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2010
  19. moped-dan

    moped-dan Guest

    I keep my tires around 50 psi. And I've also learned a good rule of thumb, only press the drive roller far enough into the tire so under full throttle it won't slip.
     
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