Pusher Trailer (new build part 2)

Discussion in 'Push Trailers' started by lowracer, Dec 2, 2011.

  1. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    I know, I know, I've been quoted as saying that I don't like pusher trailers my last thread http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=31149 , but I had this really sweet bike that I broke at the head tube a few years ago & kept for some odd reason. It was a Litespeed Blade 6/4 titanium aero time trial bike. I cutoff the top tube & downtube. Take a look at the few pics I took. I had 2 extra 700c wheels laying around & one of them already has the 'Rim2Rim Lowracer Pulley System'. It has dual rear wheels mounted fairly close together (avoiding needing a jackshaft to center the engine). Each wheel is attached now at only one side of the rear dropouts. I would mount some aluminum 'L' angle bar to the opposite side of each wheel to brace the wheels & create a low engine mount. I have some ideas about how to center mount the engine & run a v-belt to the left wheel. I haven't invested any money or time into the project yet, but its got me thinking...
    (The 4th pic isn't where it would be mounted, just needed a place to rest the thing. It would need another section to leave room for the engine between the bikes rear wheel & the trailer axles)
    Cheers,
    -Lowracer-
     

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    Last edited: Dec 2, 2011

  2. CroMagnum

    CroMagnum Member

    Where did you get the belt-drive parts for the last trailer? (The rear wheel pulley, belt, and belt-drive centrifugal clutch.) I've got a friction drive rear mount that I'd like to convert to a belt drive.
     
  3. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    CroMagnum,
    The rear pulley was purchased off eBay by searching for 'Whizzer Sheave'. I didnt like the sheave much & sold it (hard to get perfectly aligned, gearing too tall & not fond of spoke connection), the belt is an AX cogged std size v-belt (cogged wraps small pulley better than uncogged) & the clutch was a STD MaxTorque clutch that I ended up sending to max torque for an upgrade (bronze bushing to precision sealed cartridge bearings (worth the extra $40).
    Here is a link to a few of my pertinent treads: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=30208
    http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=31691
    I've since sold that Lifan 2.5 engine & clutch. Now I have 3 upgraded Pocket bike engines, a Subaru Robin EH035 & a Tanaka 33.
    -Lowracer-
     
  4. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Got some more ideas for building this pusher thing.
    I wont be using the titanium bicycle frame at all.
    Priced out some 1 X 1 X 1/4" angle aluminum today along with some 1 X 1/4" aluminum flat bar. I'm thinking of building a triangulated 3D frame similar to what you see on a Crane, Ducati frame trellis or Moulton bicycle. By using aluminum, it will still be lightweight but very strong. Also going to use one 650c wheel instead of dual 700c wheels.
    Will be swivel mounted to the seatpost similar to what I did on the 1st pusher project using a bicycle stem to hold a 100mm wheel hub for the up & down motion. Then a shim on the seatpost for the steerer tube hole w/grease on the seatpost for the side to side motion.
    I also checked out some 3/4" & 1" metal conduit today & may use some of that stuff to attach the hitch to the trailer (in a straight line).
    I think it would be cool to have a totally seperate motorized unit that is portable & can be attached to any bike in a matter of a minute by removing the seatpost & far right handlebar end mounted brake lever (throttle) mounted backwards using one 5mm allen key...
    -Lowracer-
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2011
  5. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Ok,
    I spent some more time thinking this thing thru. Drew up a simple plan using angle aluminum (drilling holes attached w/ nuts & bolts (no welding)). Sticking with my favorite Pocket Bike Cag Stage 2 engines run thru a V-Belt to a 'Lowracer Rim2Rim Wheel Pulley System'. The hitch is also a past idea I employed using a steerer stem mounted to the seatpost via shim (27.2 post/28.6 shim & grease) & a front hub in the 31.8 handlebar mount. This allows the necessary up & down motion & left to right motion. The frame sections of angle aluminum will have a fair bit of cross bracing (not in drawing). I may have enough space to mount an auxiliary fuel tank should the need arise for longer travel distances.
    Enjoy the pics,
    -Lowracer-
     

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  6. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Not sure if I should run the top mount perfectly horizontal to the ground, or on an angle downward from the seatpost mount to just above the driven wheel axle?
    Any suggestions?
    see pics
    -Lowracer-
     

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  7. CroMagnum

    CroMagnum Member

    In anticipation of one day building a pusher trailer, I picked up an Adams Trail-A-Bike that I found on Craigslist for $20. The Trail-A-Bike comes with a seat post mounted trailer hitch and a beautifully curved frame tube that readily lends itself to a pusher trailer. Basically you just chop off the rear near the pedals and weld on a motor plate and rear wheel mount.

    It's kind of funny - the guy was asking $100. But the handle bars were missing and the seat was rotted. Then I pointed out how the chain and rim were rusted and how much it was going to cost me to replace all that stuff. What he didn't realize was I was going to throw all that away anyway, so I ended up grinding him down to $20.

    But then there was no trailer hitch!! He didn't know where it was, so I suggested looking on the seat post of his wife's bike. And there it was, just as some other guy was buying it!! What a minute, the Trail-A-Bike is no good without that hitch, so he had to run down the street and catch the guy on his wife's bike to retrieve the hitch.

    The seller sure had to work hard for his $20. But now I have an Adams Trail-A-Bike - with hitch - squirreled away for a future pusher project. :grin5:

    Here's a Youtube link of a pusher made from a Trail-A-Bike. It sure eliminates a lot of fabrication. And if you're going to use a spoke bicycle wheel like in your diagram, you could probably just bolt the motor to the frame with almost no fabrication whatsoever!!
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2012
  8. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    CroMagnum,
    You got a heck of a deal on the Trail-A-Bike!
    I have thought of getting a pre-made setup, but had much success using the steerer stem to seatpost mount, clamping a front weel hub under the removeable 4 bolt face plate. I wanna keep this thing totally homegrown (ghetto engineering)...lol.
    I'll get furthur into this project once I return from winter break, but am leaning toward the parallel to the ground top beam design.
    I am looking forward to seeing what you come up with using the Trail-A-Bike.
    -Lowracer-
     
  9. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Ok,
    I ordered up the aluminum yesterday & am going with 1" x 1" x 1/4" angle aluminum.
    Got (5) 60" lengths of angle aluminum & (1) 60" length of 1" x 1/4" aluminum flat bar to tie crossbeams. Already mounted the hitch to bike & took a few shots. Will be changing out the handlebar for some wider riser MTB bars & wheelset. Also ordered a new wheelset yesterday. Going with black Sun Rhyno Lite 27mm rims w/Shimano XT 6 bolt black disc hubs, 32 DT 2.0 black spokes. Might need some Maxxis DH Tubes & meaty CST Cyclops 2.4 tires to go along with the black wheelset?
    -Lowracer-
     

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    Last edited: Jan 16, 2012
  10. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Quick Release Throttle Lever

    One of the reasons I am building this Super-Lightweight Pusher Trailer is its ease of switching from one bike to another & ease of removing it from a bike altogether. Here is a pic of the throttle. It is simply another brake lever mounted backwards onto the right-side handlebar end. This way it can be removed easily with one 5mm allen key & switched to any bike in minutes. Also needed is a small screwdriver to loosen the 2 seatpost hose clamps, opening a quick release to remove the hitch (steerer stem & shim) from the seatpost & a few velcro straps that hold the throttle cable onto the bike & trailer framework.
    Once I get this thing built, I'll get it onto a scale for the weigh-in.
    -Lowracer-
     

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  11. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    I said I'd never do it since I'm all about Keeping It Simple, but I am planning on installing a jackshaft.
    The primary reason is to center the engine on its mount to perfectly balance the one-wheel trailer (secondarily to allow some gear ratio tuning). I'll use two v-belt pulleys on a 1/2" stainless steel shaft between two pillow block bearings & 4 shaft collars. I have some pics of a few of the items I ordered this morning.
    -Lowracer-
     

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  12. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    I received the wheelset & installed a new set of tires. The Rhyno lites are my favorite rims & super strong. My other MB aka 'The Beast' also has the same rims & they have made it unscathed with me over the years, 1st Mountain biking & now Motorbiking. Since I removed the old rear wheel I figured I'd true it up & mount another rim hoop to it for another v-belt drive option. I may just use this 26" wheel to drive the rear push trailer instead of the 650c setup I was planning on. I like the fatter tire selections. Now I'm just awaiting the aluminum & the jackshaft stuff I ordered to arrive. I took the bike unmotored for a few rides yesterday & today & really like the way it feels. Its a Chromoly dirt jumping frame with a heavy duty headtube/downtube gusset. I'm all about going heavy-duty considering it'll be capable of 50 mph.
    -Lowracer-
     

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  13. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Here are a few shots of the rear 26" MTB 36 spoke drive wheel that will definitely be going on the pusher trailer. I found a throw away MTB wheel @ my local bike store. The hub & spokes were nasty, but all I wanted was the aluminum hoop. The cheap wide aluminum singlewall rims are best for v-belt drive. The belt fits nicely into the spoke bed. I clean up both surfaces that will be bonded together using a hand file & then some rubbing alcohol. I setup some JB Weld & smear it onto both bond surfaces. I get the rims onto eachother nice & even, then wipe away extra glue with a paper towel & rubbing alcohol. Lay it flat overnight & then I like to drill 3 holes thru & pop rivet (or bolt) them together for added security. I also used a tube of Quick Steel to add extra bonding along the inner seam running around the whole wheel. Quick Steel is a putty (similar to JB Weld) but not runny like JB Weld & it sets up quick. I've used it to repair many things from mirror stalks to a leaking crankcase to a muffler leak (awesome stuff). This is the 4th 'Lowracer Rim-2-Rim Pulley' I've built & all have been super durable w/ no failures.
    -Lowracer-
     

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  14. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Did some more drawing today to get final design details worked out before the aluminum arrives. It will look more like this picture. By using a jackshaft to center the engine on the frame, I'll also be able to slide the engine further forward & keep the weight under the line that bisects the rear tire patch & the hitch attachment point. From what I've been reading, this should help handling.
    -Lowracer-
     

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  15. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    The aluminum arrived yesterday & guess what?
    They sent me the wrong thickness angle aluminum.
    Was supposed to be 1/4" thick & I got 1/8" thick.
    The flat bar in the pic is correct @ 1/4".
    I contacted my seller, took & sent a picture & the correct 20' of angle aluminum is on its way (again).
    -Lowracer-
     

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  16. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Ok, I got the correct aluminum last night & started measuring, cutting, drilling & bolting things together today. Now I think I'm going to mount the engine off-center & drive the wheel directly instead of using the pillow block bearings & jackshaft. I haven't mounted the engine yet, but there may be some space limitations. I will also cut small pieces of aluminum bar to complete the cross bracing lattice framework I've been planning. I did test it today under human power to see how it tracks & feels. Definitely an improvement over my 1st try at push trailers. Its very light & is barely noticeable behind me. Lets see how things feel once the engine is mounted & it is pushing instead of being pulled.
    Here is a pic
    -Lowracer
     

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  17. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Here are a few pics of the engine mocked up both mounted directly in the center w/ jackshaft & mounted off-center directly. I'm still on the fence which way to go here?
    I also got my eye on this fuel tank that would mount perfectly up to the twin top rails & hold 4L (about a gallon). That would get me 130-150 miles per fill-up...
    -Lowracer-
     

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  18. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Made some real headway today getting the frame supports mostly done (still need to do the 'crane-like' criss crossing. Also got the pulleys, jackshaft & belt tension completed. Also made the throttle cable, having to resolder the end tip 3 times to get the length just perfect. Now I still need to get the exhaust dialed in with either some copper tubing from Lowes or some more of the flex pipe I've used in the past?
    Here are a few pics.
    -Lowracer-
     

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  19. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Here is a pic of the expansion chamber I'll be using. I added 2 store bought mufflers to quiet down this little screaming monster (Cag stage 2). I used Quick Steel putty to attach both mufflers. I've had great success using this putty in the past & wanna see how it holds up. I'll strap the muffler to the trailer frame for added safety.
    -Lowracer-
     

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  20. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    I installed the Maxxis Hookworm tires and Kenda Downhill tubes today.
    OMG....these tubes are HUGE!!! When I took the package out of the mail box I couldn't believe how much it weighed. I eagerly opened it up to inspect the goods. The tubes are 2.25mm's thick. The Hookworms are 2.5 slicks & also super heavy duty. Mounted on the Sun Ryno Lite wheelset these wheels are looking FAT.
    I'll take some pics tomorrow in the sunlight & post them up.
    -Lowracer-
     
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