Pusher Trailer (new build)

Discussion in 'Push Trailers' started by lowracer, Dec 30, 2010.

  1. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Having had this engine on the front wheel, then on the rear wheel, then on some skateboard wheels(bad idea), then back on the front wheel, I decided to do a pusher trailer.
    I invite any and all opinions on the best methods of trailer hookup?
    This is geared for the ~50 mph range but will rarely get pushed that fast.
    I did some research & still haven't settled between seatpost mount or axle mount.
    The tandem brake cable came in the mail a few days ago, so the throttle hookup & bike interchangeability will be a snap.
    Here is what I've got put together so far.
    -Lowracer-
     

    Attached Files:


  2. bodged bikes

    bodged bikes New Member

    I'm working on one now that will be axle mounted. I will be using a 10mm threaded rod (McMaster #98861A530) to replace the hollow axle in my Shimano rear hub. The trailer will attach with 10mm rod ends (McMaster #59935K84) slipped over the threaded rod. A vertical pivot will be located between the bike and trailer. The result will be similar to this Nashbar trailer
     
  3. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    bodged bikes,
    Very cool...I get stuff from Mcmaster Carr & love that company.
    Here are a few more pics as I've just about completed it today.
    Using just bike parts, scrap metal, nuts & bolts & a skateboard wheel for belt tensioner. Yeah its a carbon road fork...lol
    Just need to hook up the throttle cable & re-install the muffler.
    I took it for a test drive unmotored & everything is functioning properly as far as turning & bumps go.
    -lowracer-
     

    Attached Files:

  4. bodged bikes

    bodged bikes New Member

    Excellent! A very creative recycling of an unused fork and hub.
     
  5. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    BB,
    Thanks.
    I really like trying to come up with ways to use old bike parts that are littering up the garage in ways to solve mechanical challenges. I may switch the mounting system to rear axle to see how it handles & 'feels'. The long arm connecting trailer to seatpost has a bit of flex either in the arm itself or the mount to the trailer which is another bike stem (or a combination of the two) which I'm not comfortable with especially if I go fast. If I dont go axle mount, I'll definitely shorten up the distance I got it at now since its a bit long. Always easier to remove than add I always say...lol
    -lowracer-
     
  6. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Rode the bike w/motorized trailer today after tightening the tongue area up.
    Hate to say it , but I'm not loving the pusher trailer layout & will be taking it all apart again. Feels like driving a tractor trailer (or maybe a tandem bicycle) & not what I expected. It was cool to build & test it out however.
    -lowracer-
     
  7. bodged bikes

    bodged bikes New Member

    It does feel very different having a trailer pushing rather than being towed. The understeer in a turn is very noticeable under power.
     
  8. Rgvkid

    Rgvkid Member

    The engine is mounted to high. You'll have problems with the ergonomics. Use a smaller wheel and lower the engine, that will help with stability performance.
     
  9. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    Last edited: Dec 23, 2011
  10. colinbirdman

    colinbirdman New Member

    I like your set up. How does the cycle wheel compare to a smaller driving wheel? I am looking at a 35cc pusher motor. What is the best HP output and size for a pusher load 75kg plus pusher and bike? The toothed belt loooks efficient is it?
     
  11. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    colin,
    I like using 26" MTB wheels as drive wheels. I use a pocketbike engine on two of my MB's both geared around 16:1 & can max out at 50+ mph. I dont think pocketbikes using their small diameter wheels achieve an optimum gear ratio & speeds are lower. My MB, when kept in the 30-40 mph range gets between 130-150 mpg's. The v-belt drive in my opinion is very clean, efficient & lightweight.
    -Lowracer-
     
  12. colinbirdman

    colinbirdman New Member

    I am looking at buying a Rans Trizard for long distance cycling. It has 20" wheels. it also has an avantage of being able to link to another trizard or a pusher trailer such as yours. If I geared the engine to 16: 1 via a v belt. Do I go through a internal three speed hub , a14 speed Rohloff, a nuvinci auto shift to get the best use of the power of the engine? Honda produce a GX35 rated at 1.3hp or the GX 31 rated at 1.5Hp which of these are best or do you have another alternative that is realiable, quiet and efficient.
     
  13. lowracer

    lowracer Member

    I have a Subaru Robin E035 rated at 1.6hp on one of my bikes & a very nice reliable Japanese engine. 16:1 might be a bit tall for the smaller 4 strokes (go closer to 18:1). The pocket bike engine rated somewhere closer to 4 hp can pull that gear ratio all the way to redline under load. I dont think the 1.6 can.
    Oh, I just finished my new pusher trailer & rode it around for a day or so before dismantling the whole thing. I am not liking the pusher trailer layout & wont be building another.
    -Lowracer-
     
  14. colinbirdman

    colinbirdman New Member

    Thanks for your info. See you in the States.
     
  15. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    With 20 inch wheels, the 16:1 would have a max top end of apx 29 mph...

    I would be afraid that the 3-speed internal hubs would not stay in one piece for very long... I don't think they would handle the sustained power (although the peak torque of the motor is much less than a person can apply, the average motor torque is substantially greater.)

    The Nuvinci auto version takes quite a bit of electrical power; with a bike, you would probably be better off with the manual adjust - ref the staton site for more info.
     
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