Q-Matic: What Caused This
- Thread starter Stoltzee
- Start date
joel lynch
New Member
pully cought on the washer with the key way, key way acted like a tooth and grabbed it then the washer spun untill the split locking washer grabbed back of the bolt and then momentum took over ,, ,, , , ,, it happens sometimes its no biggy just file the edge ofthe keyway so it wont happen again and you will be fine you may want ot check your pully to wile your filing the keyway, only way this can ever happen is if the key slips
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Actually the key, and the set screw didn't move. The key is in enough to not come close to the washer. I have the Huasheng engine with the tapered shaft. The bolt presses the pulley shaft against the tapered crank shaft. Not my choice of shafts, but I was not aware of the difference until after I bought it with a peace of junk "Hoot transmission" on it, which only lasted 2 months. I haven't taken it apart yet, and not looking forward to what I'll probably see, which is probably going to require drilling, re-taping, and maybe re-conditioning the male and female shafts.
joel lynch
New Member
only other way besides keyway slipping is if a little gremlin ran up ar 30 miles an hour and attacked it with an impact wrench lol
Well Joel Lynch, there's 2 HS engines. one with a keyed shaft, and one with a tapered shaft, which has no grove for a key. Its more of a compression fit, and the "broken bolt" holds the 5/8s keyed shaft that the pulley is on in the transmission on the tapered shaft. When I rev the engine the crank shaft spins, but the shaft in the transmission (First Picture) doesn't move. Here's a picture of the tapered crank shaft.
Racie35
Member
That is gonna keep happening.... Surprising none of the puppets always pushing that trans don't chime in with an opinion... Theyld hafta understand why though I guess to do that....message me and I will try to explain
I tried to find the message link on your page, but could not.
I see 2 things wrong with it.
1. The shaft should be slightly longer, but of course that's a custom length, and would increase cost.
2. A champ-her in the end of the shaft to create more surface contact with the tapered shaft.
Since the pulley has a set key, and a set screw the nut only needs to make contact with the shaft, but if you look at
the picture you can see that the shaft is recessed inside of the pulley allowing the front pulley to align with the rear
pulley.
Option A. Order a longer shaft, and have it custom cut 3/16" longer.
Option B. Use a 1/8" to 3/16" shim smaller than the inside diameter of the pulley.
Option C. A nice fat lock washer that fits inside the inside pulley, or a combination of such.
EZM's theory was that the washer keeps the pulley from coming off, which hasn't move any, so logically there could be a tiny gap between the washer and pulley, which would keep the pulley from migrating. The washer doesn't need to torque on the pulley just the shaft.
I see 2 things wrong with it.
1. The shaft should be slightly longer, but of course that's a custom length, and would increase cost.
2. A champ-her in the end of the shaft to create more surface contact with the tapered shaft.
Since the pulley has a set key, and a set screw the nut only needs to make contact with the shaft, but if you look at
the picture you can see that the shaft is recessed inside of the pulley allowing the front pulley to align with the rear
pulley.
Option A. Order a longer shaft, and have it custom cut 3/16" longer.
Option B. Use a 1/8" to 3/16" shim smaller than the inside diameter of the pulley.
Option C. A nice fat lock washer that fits inside the inside pulley, or a combination of such.
EZM's theory was that the washer keeps the pulley from coming off, which hasn't move any, so logically there could be a tiny gap between the washer and pulley, which would keep the pulley from migrating. The washer doesn't need to torque on the pulley just the shaft.
Simply contact me and I will replace with latest edition shaft, bearing, and adapter plate. Simply use a little valve grinding compound on the tapered crankshaft end and the inside of the new shaft to mate them together. If you don't have any valve grinding compound, let me know and I will include a small container with the upgraded parts.
Your drive is one of the early prototypes, we produced about 60 of the version you have and yours appears to be the only one with issues. All the proto-types were custom made, and some would of course vary slightly [it sounds like your shaft might have been too short]. I am the villian, as I made all the proto-type drive systems, not our normal production crew.
When we went into production, we altered the design and now mount the bearing support under the Q-Matic drive plate. The Q-Matic drive is no longer attached to the bearing support. [see 2 screws on your drive near front bearing]. The current production support is machined to set inside the motor casting, and then "sandwitched" by the main drive plate. This method eliminates the drive plate having any effect on the shaft alignment, when in use. We also reduced the hole size in the shaft to make the long 6 MM bolt a tighter fit.
Please see pictures, and hopefully I have explained it well enough, if not please ask more questions.
Remember all EZ Motorbike parts have a 1 year warranty, and we will make sure you are 100% happy.
Have fun,
Your drive is one of the early prototypes, we produced about 60 of the version you have and yours appears to be the only one with issues. All the proto-types were custom made, and some would of course vary slightly [it sounds like your shaft might have been too short]. I am the villian, as I made all the proto-type drive systems, not our normal production crew.
When we went into production, we altered the design and now mount the bearing support under the Q-Matic drive plate. The Q-Matic drive is no longer attached to the bearing support. [see 2 screws on your drive near front bearing]. The current production support is machined to set inside the motor casting, and then "sandwitched" by the main drive plate. This method eliminates the drive plate having any effect on the shaft alignment, when in use. We also reduced the hole size in the shaft to make the long 6 MM bolt a tighter fit.
Please see pictures, and hopefully I have explained it well enough, if not please ask more questions.
Remember all EZ Motorbike parts have a 1 year warranty, and we will make sure you are 100% happy.
Have fun,
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Racie35
Member
That's quite the fix....looks bulletproof.
That's wonderful Quenton. I'm glad to hear it's a fluke. I will call you. I haven't had a chance to take the transmission off yet, and I didn't think of mating the surfaces with valve grinding compound probably because I haven't even seen a tube of it in 20 years or more.
I realize how much time, money, and effort you guys put into this transmission, which is application specific, and I feel is a good design. The only complaints I've read are from persons that have forgotten that gas bikes are "pedal assisted." I did, but then I remembered what I built.
I realize how much time, money, and effort you guys put into this transmission, which is application specific, and I feel is a good design. The only complaints I've read are from persons that have forgotten that gas bikes are "pedal assisted." I did, but then I remembered what I built.
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