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Thanks Quenton. There is a Nappa near me.
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- Thread starter Quenton Guenther
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creelgriffin
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Whizzer Manual and info
I bought a 1998 Whizzer a couple of summers ago and only got to ride it about 6 or 7 times before I started having problems. Took it to the closest Whizzer dealer and paid $20 to have him tell me that he didn't know what was wrong with it or how to fix it. He wanted to sell me a new Whizzer. Anyway, I really like this thing but probably paid too much for it anyhow. Problem is they are so different that I need a factory repair manual so I can work on it. Really need a manual before I tear into it so I will not tear up or lose parts [Know some parts already missing - like front break return spring] Also need place where I can get parts. Any info would be very very helpful. Thanks a lot. Posted here because could find place to post new post. When I get the a manual then I will be smart enough to know what I need and how to upgrade also. Thanks a lot.
I bought a 1998 Whizzer a couple of summers ago and only got to ride it about 6 or 7 times before I started having problems. Took it to the closest Whizzer dealer and paid $20 to have him tell me that he didn't know what was wrong with it or how to fix it. He wanted to sell me a new Whizzer. Anyway, I really like this thing but probably paid too much for it anyhow. Problem is they are so different that I need a factory repair manual so I can work on it. Really need a manual before I tear into it so I will not tear up or lose parts [Know some parts already missing - like front break return spring] Also need place where I can get parts. Any info would be very very helpful. Thanks a lot. Posted here because could find place to post new post. When I get the a manual then I will be smart enough to know what I need and how to upgrade also. Thanks a lot.
Hi Creelgriffin,
I sent you a private message to aid you in repairing your Whizzer.
Might be a good idea to call me for all the details needed
252-475-0406 cell
I have the parts you will need to upgrade, but the demand will soon wipe out my existing inventory.
I can copy my manual if needed.
Have fun,
I sent you a private message to aid you in repairing your Whizzer.
Might be a good idea to call me for all the details needed
252-475-0406 cell
I have the parts you will need to upgrade, but the demand will soon wipe out my existing inventory.
I can copy my manual if needed.
Have fun,
creelgriffin
New Member
- Local time
- 5:20 PM
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2008
- Messages
- 3
Finally got Whizzer going again. Pretty sure it is an improved engine as it has German needle roller bearings. Problem now is I don't know anything about carburators. Took carb apart and cleaned it in carburator cleaner put it back together and it will now only run on full choke and idle. Only had 2 external adjusting screws and no matter how I turn them bike still wont run much more than idle and only on full choke. looked on site here and found an exploded view of a WC1 carburator and it is different than mine. My bike was susposed to be rebuilt by some expert in Miami Fla. but don't really know much about it. Any suggestions for the carburator? Bike is real cool and sure miss it and know I am so close to riding it again. Thanks Quenton. May call previous number given if don't hear from you. Fellow Whizzer Enthusiast. Smile. Creel Griffin, Beautiful NE Oklahoma, Grand Lake on Duck Creek,
Hi Creelgriffin,
Sounds like you have a 1998/9 model, and it is also possible it doesn't have the original carburetor shown on the Whizzer web site.
Does your carburetor have a fuel shut-off on the right side [when sitting on bike]?
All new editon Whizzers have the needle bearing crankshaft.
Sounds like the pilot jet may be "plugged" up, and the solution is simple. Normally soaking the carburetor in cleaner doesn't remove any obstruction in the pilot or main jet. Simply use part of a "frayed" cable, as one small piece of the twisted cable will fit inside the pilot and main jet. Although some of us have number drill sets, the pilot jet is problematic and the piece of frayed cable works great. I also use Gummout carburetor and fuel injection cleaner in my gas about every 6th tank. I normally ignor the instructions on the bottle and use about 4 ounces of the cleaner to a full tank [1.25 gal].
Have fun,
Sounds like you have a 1998/9 model, and it is also possible it doesn't have the original carburetor shown on the Whizzer web site.
Does your carburetor have a fuel shut-off on the right side [when sitting on bike]?
All new editon Whizzers have the needle bearing crankshaft.
Sounds like the pilot jet may be "plugged" up, and the solution is simple. Normally soaking the carburetor in cleaner doesn't remove any obstruction in the pilot or main jet. Simply use part of a "frayed" cable, as one small piece of the twisted cable will fit inside the pilot and main jet. Although some of us have number drill sets, the pilot jet is problematic and the piece of frayed cable works great. I also use Gummout carburetor and fuel injection cleaner in my gas about every 6th tank. I normally ignor the instructions on the bottle and use about 4 ounces of the cleaner to a full tank [1.25 gal].
Have fun,
GAS-RIDEZ
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- Mar 8, 2011
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Hi Quenton,
Want to ask if I may have the same problem of the pilot jet, that may be plugged,I read a lot here but unlike what I've read of others, I think that the gas in mine comes from the rubber seal of the float bowl not from the over flow tube and where I can buy the rubber seal,important my bike is a NE 5 2005.Thanks in advance
Want to ask if I may have the same problem of the pilot jet, that may be plugged,I read a lot here but unlike what I've read of others, I think that the gas in mine comes from the rubber seal of the float bowl not from the over flow tube and where I can buy the rubber seal,important my bike is a NE 5 2005.Thanks in advance
Hi GAS-RIDEZ,
The 2005 NE5 came with 2 different carburetors. The very early [rare] 2005 NE5 had a 26 MM carburetor, ad all later production had a 22 MM carburetor. Sadly the 22 MM was made by several different companies. One of the major differences was the float and needle. Some had metal floats, some had plastic floats, some had a rubber tipped float needle and some had a all metal float needle. I think the bowl gasket is the same all of them.
The 22 MM is a common carburetor and was used on a variety of go-cart motors, and I would guess you can get parts from a go-cart shop.
If it is the rubber "O" ring float bowl gasket it can simply be sealed with a gasket maker material made by Permatex or some type of silicone sealer.
Have fun,
The 2005 NE5 came with 2 different carburetors. The very early [rare] 2005 NE5 had a 26 MM carburetor, ad all later production had a 22 MM carburetor. Sadly the 22 MM was made by several different companies. One of the major differences was the float and needle. Some had metal floats, some had plastic floats, some had a rubber tipped float needle and some had a all metal float needle. I think the bowl gasket is the same all of them.
The 22 MM is a common carburetor and was used on a variety of go-cart motors, and I would guess you can get parts from a go-cart shop.
If it is the rubber "O" ring float bowl gasket it can simply be sealed with a gasket maker material made by Permatex or some type of silicone sealer.
Have fun,
Last edited:
GAS-RIDEZ
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- Mar 8, 2011
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Spilling the gas
Hi Quenton,
My carburetor has metal floats,is it normal for the gas to rise to that level of the rubber "O" ring float bowl, this is without running the bike that is spilling the gas,and I think my carb does not have the restrictor plate,sorry for so many questions but will like to now if you have some part for bullet proof my motor,here's pic of the carb,Thanks for the Help.
Hi Quenton,
My carburetor has metal floats,is it normal for the gas to rise to that level of the rubber "O" ring float bowl, this is without running the bike that is spilling the gas,and I think my carb does not have the restrictor plate,sorry for so many questions but will like to now if you have some part for bullet proof my motor,here's pic of the carb,Thanks for the Help.
Attachments
![3ec7c5790f8e__1347728355000[1].jpg](/data/attachments/32/32952-3fe819f0130ee04d59c6d7b99b222eaa.jpg)
![ceff9a363196__1347728702000[1].jpg](/data/attachments/32/32953-493a2d24d4e8971de5ada7b065624c6b.jpg)
Turn the carburetor upside down, measure the float height at 22 MM. I would remove the main and pilot jets and spay some cleaner in the passages.
The metal floats are better than the plastic versions because the float level can be set by bending the tab, whereas the platic floats are pre-set and if warped or destorted can't be adjusted.
Be very careful when tightening the 2 nuts that attach the carburetor to the cylinder as the mounting flange is very thin and can snap off destroying the carburetor.
I have a lot of parts for the new edition motors and can help you make your motor "bullet" proof.
Have fun,
The metal floats are better than the plastic versions because the float level can be set by bending the tab, whereas the platic floats are pre-set and if warped or destorted can't be adjusted.
Be very careful when tightening the 2 nuts that attach the carburetor to the cylinder as the mounting flange is very thin and can snap off destroying the carburetor.
I have a lot of parts for the new edition motors and can help you make your motor "bullet" proof.
Have fun,
GAS-RIDEZ
Member
- Local time
- 3:20 PM
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2011
- Messages
- 59
Hi Quenton,
I have not had time to work on the carb yet, but I hope to have some time in the week,about the parts that interest me for my bike are those that would make my engine more efficient,as you have written here are,copper head gasket,Mushroom Valve Lifters,muffler high flow insert,head milled .070", restrictor plate, carb does not have one, and will you have front fork seal mine are leaking,I have a few more miles to complete the break in,does this matter for what is going to be perform,Thanks for answers.
I have not had time to work on the carb yet, but I hope to have some time in the week,about the parts that interest me for my bike are those that would make my engine more efficient,as you have written here are,copper head gasket,Mushroom Valve Lifters,muffler high flow insert,head milled .070", restrictor plate, carb does not have one, and will you have front fork seal mine are leaking,I have a few more miles to complete the break in,does this matter for what is going to be perform,Thanks for answers.
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