Rate Your Satisfaction

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by jaguar, Mar 20, 2013.


Rate your satisfaction

  1. I'm satisfied with its good performance.

    3 vote(s)
  2. It's lacking so I'm willing to spend over $100 on it.

    1 vote(s)
  3. It's lacking but I won't spend more than $100 on it.

    1 vote(s)
  4. It sucks and I won't spend another dime on it.

    0 vote(s)
  5. It sucks and I'm looking to sell it to some sucker.

    0 vote(s)
  1. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    Tell us all how satisfied/dissatisfied you are with your 2 stroke engines performance (power, reliability, vibration).
    If you have already modified it then your poll entry can reflect either the before or after state, just tell us which in your post.
    For me it is a matter of which engine and what its use is.
    For street use I am happy with my 60cc (piston port intake, 18mm Mikuni, custom extended intake manifold w/20mm I.D., increased compression, redirected transfers, ported for a bit more rpm and better breathing, Jaguar CDI, Honda high voltage coil, lighter wrist pin)
    For racing around and bicycle motocross I am happy with my 55cc (reed valve intake, 18mm Mikuni, custom reed valve to carb manifold, torque pipe, increased compression, redirected transfers, ported for 8300 rpm and better breathing, Jaguar CDI, Honda high voltage coil, lighter wrist pin)
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013

  2. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    Is that before or after engine modifications?
  3. Anton

    Anton Administrator Staff Member

    I've done a lot of km's and have had no problems at all. It's a stock engine, carb, CDI, chain tensioner, exhaust and everything. I just pull it out of the shed, it starts first go and it runs until I stop it. It's also fast enough to be scary on the corrugated roads I ride on. My main use is to ride to the next town over which is a 16km (10 mile) round trip and it serves that purpose very well!
  4. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    Fabian, it would be most interesting if you gave a before and after-modifications rating and tell us what mods you have done.
  5. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    If we call the "before" a completely standard engine, then the "after" would include the following list of improvements; non of which make the engine any more powerful or make the bike go any faster, but do significantly improve engine reliability and quietness:

    Engine upgraded to a crowded needle roller big end connecting rod bearing, though most new engines these days come with this updated feature as standard,
    Modified pull-start,
    Modified centrifugal clutch,
    Modified clutch cable setup on the engine, routing clutch cable around a roller bearing pulley to the clutch arm; drastically reducing clutch lever effort,
    Rock Solid Engines high compression cylinder head,
    CR Machine manufacturing Twin Spark Plug cylinder head with no compression release hole,
    CR Machine Manufacturing Twin Spark Plug cylinder head with compression release hole which is tapped for a spark plug thread.
    I run the cylinder head with three spark plugs to reduce the compression ratio,
    Rock Solid Engines billet intake tube (later on discarded for the reed valve intake),
    Rock Solid Engines Reed valve Intake,
    Rock Solid Engines (Walbro style) diaphragm carburettor with a Rock Solid Engines reed valve adapter kit,
    2 1/2 feet of half inch internal diameter chemical resistant high temperature silicone hose attached onto the end of the standard exhaust, which significantly reduces noise,
    SickBikeParts exhaust port studs,
    CR Machine Manufacturing modified OEM piston with machined exhaust port ramps and transfer port ramps,
    Magnecor Spark Plug Leads,
    NGK BR8HIX Iridium Spark Plug,
    Jaguar CDI and coil, set to the lowest ignition advance curve,
    Standard exhaust flange port matched to exhaust gasket,
    Koso fast response Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge,
    TTS cylinder head temperature gauge,
    Left hand side case half modified to accept a crankcase pulse line to enable fitment of a diaphragm carburettor,
    Tried and discarded the use of a genuine Dellorto carburettor; clone Dellorto carburettor and NT carburettor, finally replacing the float style carburettor and installing a (Walbro style) diaphragm carburettor,
    SickBikeParts K&N air filter,
    and soon to be installed combination 5 amp generator and electric start system and 8 amp hour lithium battery with a 12 volt accessory socket to enable use of heated motorcycle clothing as well as being able to run a laptop/tablet PC or to charge a mobile phone or various other electronic devices.
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  6. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    be nice if there were a choice "it's lacking & I spend a lot of time keeping it going 'cause I have no money"
  7. roughrider

    roughrider Member

    I have 66cc China 2-stroke on a Schwinn cantilever frame with mountain bike front forks and a disc brake.

    There are two significant drive system mods I've made. The first was a Jaguar CDI which produced a noticeable drop in vibration at high rpms and quicker, smoother pickup from about 3/4 throttle. The engine has a deeper, more growly tone at high rpms too. The second mod was a Manic Mechanic 48 tooth chainwheel for towing and hill-climbing. (Some may not see that as significant, but I disagree.)

    There are a few minor improvements, like all grade 8 steel in the engine hardware, an NGK iridium plug, a Kip spinger chain tensioner. Even more minor are a toggled kill switch and some grips and a throttle off a mini-bike. These all add up to reliability.

    Exactly once, I looked down and saw my speedo saying "34.6." I must have had a tailwind because the bike normally tops out at 31.5–31.8. That's faster than I need to go. My bike just loves to go between 19-21 mph, and she does not really even notice hills, even with a loaded trailer. That was what I had in mind for my first design, and I succeeded.

    This April, I'll be seeing the race in SoCal. I'm gonna start thinking about a real race bike for my next build.

    Also, I am wondering what it would take to make a 50cc bike go a hundred miles an hour. A full fairing? A recumbent in which the fairing serves as a monocoque nacelle? That would be the Bonneville style bike...

    Mwa-Hah-Hah <-- That's my mad scientist. evil laugh.

    [EDIT: Just looked that up. It can more than be done: http://buddfab.net/buddfabhomepage.html]
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  8. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    I have a Huffy Cranbrook with a 49 cc 2 stroke that I bought from an ebay vendor. I think it was Lucky Early Bird.

    I am entirely satisfied. But.........I am a very experienced bicycle rider. I know how to ride a bike without beating it to death. This issue is magnified with a motorized bicycle; you have to be even more sensitive to shocks and stresses on the bike for it's own sake and for your own. These bikes can also beat the rider to death.

    And we all know that these bikes, and particularly the cheaper kits, need constant tinkering. My skills as a bicycle mechanic plus my ability to learn, sometimes from mistakes, about these engines and kits have played a large part in my success.

    I'm honestly not trying to boast here. I'm trying to point out the fact that those who know bicycles well are likely to do better than those who don't.

    Those who don't particularly love bicycles or have much experience with them are almost certainly doomed to failure. God Bless 'Em and best of luck, says I. It's just that I'm not too confident that they'll be all that satisfied.

    To put it in something like Zen terms; you have to become one with the bicycle.

    Those who do will answer this poll one way, those who don't will answer it another way.
  9. grinningremlin

    grinningremlin Active Member

    I'm running a Tanaka PF4000 with a GEBE.Zero problems, Z E R O, like driving the Volvo equivalent.Great power easy starts, the only mod so far is a cigar silencer with no change in performance, more concerned with tire/belt problems.I'm going to work the intake end as it's still a bit raspy.A bit expensive, but it's worth the $$ for a trouble free ride, so much better to be able to ride from day one instead of constant fixes/tweaks.
  10. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Member

    I'm very satisfied with my Scooterguy-mounted Tanaka 47R engine w/8-speed shift kit. This engine has it all. When using its engine-specific 3-piece pipe, it's very quiet. The only drawback is chain jumping, which normally ends up in chain breaking. That and derailleur breakages. My next build will have an 8-speed internal hub. That should eliminate chain jumping/breaking.
  11. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    what is the point of putting a turbo on a two stroke besides trying to blow the crank seals? interesting to put the turbo at the end of the exhaust, contrary to standard practise. but so is a turbo and pipe anyway. wish i had lots of money. then i wouldna have so much sense :)

    the polls too limited, and i know, its hard to cover all bases.

    what if youre completely unsatisfied, but are happy, and are looking for some sucker to sell it to?


    i know what the polls in aid of. do people want to pay for performance upgrades, or are they just content with what they got, or are they over the stinking things altogether...

    people will always pay more for appearances than performance. i hate that, but its true. it has too look right, people can live with it being mediocre in all other regards. look at apple for instance :jester:

    so... in my case its hard. i wont pay cus i believe in self sufficiency. admittedly i need the motor.

    out of the box... one mate is 100 kg. he was riding 40-50km round trips, stock standard. perfectly content with it. it did the job for the three months of having no license. then he rode one of mine and was forever disappointed in his. once again, for what it was doing, it wasnt worth it for me to make him a pipe or do anything. he was also not that way inclined to fiddle.

    where as i knew i was in it for the long run. so i had a few motors, few different frames, and the desire to get more!

    i started motopushies cus i was lazy and never got a car license (read bad location/family/lifechoice). got a bike license, and resort to the pushies whenever i lose it.

    2 years last time. that was painful. i currently still have my license. now im just fiddling with builds in the back shed.

    these things are far more reliable and far less temperamental when they are simply for recreation.

    the gremlins multiply proportionately to the urgency of need....

    i will note... my latest engine is one of the smoothest runners ive had. so far its still sitting there, stock, waiting for my new vid cam. i also noted the magnetos changed slightly. no white wire, and the internal earth connection is now on the lug previously used for white. the CDI is in a new style case with much deeper "ears" for the bracket. plug caps still POS :jester:. just makes me wonder what, if any, mods may have been made internally?
  12. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    Lately my biggest complaint is the rough ride. I have 2.6" tires on it and that helps but I'd like to widen the frame and put moped tires on it. I'd also like to modify it to have rear suspension.
    Next complaint would be the noise. W/o a helmet the noise is really bothersome on a long ride. For that reason in town I just use the standard muffler with reduced outlet diameter and 5" header extension (for more torque). That is in place of my torque pipe.
    The higher the revs the more noise, of course. To avoid that I will order another 55cc cylinder and not raise the exhaust port, just widen it. And do all the mods I know for increasing low rpm power. And maybe get a smaller sprocket to increase top speed.
  13. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Member

    jaguar, what's your tire pressure. I have Schwalbe Big Apples 2.35 x 26" tires. Ride is softer if I use lower tire pressure. If you don't have a front suspension fork, install one. Night and day difference in a softer ride.

    Like you, I'm considering moped front end, tires, wheels and brakes. Many MBers are using Suzuki K10 forks. One of my projects will have motorcycle front end, which will clear 80/90-21 tires (3.15" wide/26.6" tall).
  14. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Member

    "people will always pay more for appearances than performance. i hate that, but its true. it has too look right, people can live with it being mediocre in all other regards. look at apple for instance."

    HeadSmess, not me. Function before form. Performance is key for me, safety too.

    LOL, my bike looks like crap, but cruises @ 30mph.
  15. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    I wished that i could get a 26 x 2.35 tyre in the rear end but my frame limits me to 2.25.
    Lower pressure makes a huge difference in comfort (and comfort is everything on long trips), hence the reason why i run the rear tyre at 24 PSI and the front tyre at 20 PSI
    5-7HEAVEN likes this.
  16. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    My ideal bike would be a replica GT LTS that had the frame space to take a set of those huge balloon tyres, as seen on Pugsly style snow bikes; enabling you to run 10 PSI for pure comfort.


    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
  17. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Member

    Thanks for the tip, Fabian. I was @ 50psi, dropped down to 40psi. Maybe I'll try even less tire pressure.
  18. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    and i run thorn proof tubes which work surprisingly well at preventing flat tyres.
  19. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Member

    I tried that, but sill got flats.

    I literally fitted another bicycle tire within a tire and STILL got flats.

    When I changed from friction drive to shift kit, I got MUCH less flats and my tires lasted literally more than 10 times longer. In fact, I've never had a bald tire after changing to a shift kit.
  20. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    yeah I run as low a pressure as I can get away with. It helps but the disadvantage of a bicycle also is its lack of weight and so the frame is just as likely to move with a bump instead of the forks compressing. Yes I have front forks. I think they have 3" travel. But for the comfort I want they need to have at least 5" travel. and it needs rear suspension.