Brakes rear brake mounting on cantilever frame; need opinions.

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by Rayde, Mar 30, 2011.

  1. Rayde

    Rayde New Member

    http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j392/Rayde89/Bike stuff/IMG00049-20110326-1853.jpg
    IMG00049-20110326-1853.jpg
    That's what I've got so far, work in progress.

    For the rear brake, there's notta. No mounts. No canti studs, no caliper hole, no disc tabs, nothing.

    Currently, i'm leaning towards 1 of 3 solutions:

    1.) Get one of these units: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Rad-Accessories-...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4156b08985

    I'd probably permanently attach (weld) it to the chainstay for reassurance that those little zip ties wouldn't snap and cause some harm, and to keep it out of sight with the low location... Depending on clearance. I'd get some nice linear pull's, with decent pads. Avid single digit 7's with kool stops, or something well known anyway. Would a v-brake on a MB eventually strip the chrome off the rim?

    I need a good rear brake, as the banana seat is putting most of my weight on the rear wheel. The front wheel is running a disc brake, but with little weight on it, that's not terribly helpful. If i ran a v-brake on the rear, i would hook it, as well as the front disc up to this: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-47062693642615_2144_15831743 , since bar space will be at a premium with the clutch lever present. I had considered trimming the fork legs, to lower the front end, and give me more weight on the front wheel, but I'd much rather not to. The chopper forks look sick the way they are.

    Would a quality linear pull cantilever with good pads do anything on a chrome rim in wet weather? I've yet to have a v-brake work in rain. Although, my experiences in this field lie with cheap components. It is worth noting, that i am interested in picking up the shift kit in the distant-ish future (once i get the bike working smoothly, and get some disposable income built back up). It's not a necessity in my books, but it sure does look cool.

    2.) Get a 140 spoke coaster brake wheel. I'd only be using it for a brake, doubtful I'd pedal much when i finally get this thing together. After doing some homework, i've seen most people split 50/50, for and against coaster brakes. Some people love 'em, some hate 'em.

    I've used them since i could ride a bike, i've only had a problem once, but that was my own fault; hacked a coaster wheel for a front drum brake, not *really* knowing what i was doing(keeping it well packed with grease)... It worked fine, until it locked the front wheel abruptly while ripping down a steep hill once, with traffic coming in both directions, on a narrow road, blind hill, no helmet, etc... Honestly, i thought i was gonna get hurt really bad for a split second, ended up not even getting thrown from the bike, rode it back over to my shoulder of the road and stopped, "safely". The chopper i was riding had little weight on the front wheel, so when it locked, i bobbed/skittered/hopped out into oncoming traffic, but i coaxed it back into my lane with a little finesse. Now that i reflect, that was awesome!!!

    ANYway, back on topic.

    3.) Get a 36h coaster wheel, and a rear threaded freewheel wheel. Coaster is obviously for the rear, the rear freewheel wheel to be flipped around, having a disc brake adapter threaded on, and ran with a front disc setup (my current setup). This option is for if the issue arises that i cannot get the drive sprocket to fit on the existing 140 spoke rear freewheel. I'm hoping i can rig something up so i won't have to change wheels, for simplicity/monetary reasons/visual appeal.

    I'm trying to decide what type of brake I'm going with, so I'll know to purchase what type of wheel, if any, when my engine kit comes in. It kind of depends on If i can rig up the sprocket on the 140 spoke wheel i have now, as i've seen some people saying they had problems doing that.

    And most importantly, I'd like to thank anyone who actually grinds though this intimidating hunk of text, and especially to whom may respond with their ideas & opinions!!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 31, 2011

  2. Check out the photos on my post.
    http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=32856
    http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=31534&d=1304357958

    I found an old suspension fork (broken) and removed the brake arch. Took it to a buddy who does machining and he cut out and drilled and tapped two mounting plates. After locating the correct position he welded them in place. I bloted the thing together and the Cantilever brakes work excellent. Hope this helps. You can't see the photo very well but... I may try to post some more photos soon.
     
  3. A quick historical note on coaster brakes. The early days of mountain biking in Calif. started on Mt. Tamalpias in Marin Co. The first Mtb. bikes were 26" cruisers with little modification (remove the fenders). These guys (Gary Fisher etc.) would race down Mt. Tam and the brake (notice the singular, not plural) would be smoking by the time they got to the bottom. They would have to re-pack the rear hub so this un-official race was called the "re-pack". I think it became an official race for a while then all Mtb. biking was outlawed on Mt. Tam.
     
  4. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Well-Known Member

    I mounted a BMX brake on my chain stays (between the crank and back wheel. If your frame has no cross piece there, make one with a couple of pieces of flat steel. Clamp them on the frame with a couple of bolts.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Rear brake photos!

    Here are the photos I mentioned earlier. Hope this helps give you some ideas of what can be done.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. retromike3

    retromike3 Member

    If you can, weld it

    What I did for my front brake when I installed a longer front fork than the stock one was to weld two cantilever studs on the fork.

    The old studs were set up for a 700c front wheel so I had to cut the old ones off and then file them down so they were smooth. Lucky for me I have a torch and the needed equipment. I also built a jig so that I had the studs parallel and strait.

    I think you can find somebody to set you up for about fifty bucks. There used to be a bolt on set of studs a few years ago, but I don't know if they still make them.

    mike
     
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