Rear wheel keeps warping

I think half the problem is that it's a huffy, those rear wheels bent and bearings broke so fast I couldn't believe it. Hopefully my GT agressor won't have this problem.
 
You have to keep up on adjusting your spokes. If you let them get loose your will will destroy itself. Same with the bearings. Keep them lubricated. When you notice some play you have to get them replaced.

Brand new wheel broke 1st ride
 
Just get a freehub, freewheels are a different animal, where the bearing in a freewheel type hub is at the bottom of the freewheel, a shorter distant between bearings.. A freehub uses a bearing near the outside of the freehub, it's much closer to the overall axle nut width (dropout width) and on all cogs you are either basically on top of or within the area on the axle that both bearings are covering..

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Lose the freewheel hub, you motor power and weight combined are too much for the freewheel hub. If you are bending cogs too then at furthers the point. Get a freehub type hub and the bearings will support loads better. Your weakest link will be your chain then, and I have recommendations if that becomes a problem too.
 
You may need more practice in wheel building too, you need to keep the spokes well adjusted for both direct drive and jackshaft type set ups. Obviously direct drive will benefit from tougher spokes on that side with proper dishing...

On the shifter side then it's best to use whatever will handle a normal 2 or 3 cross at t by e power you plan to use if at. Want to accelerate very very fast? Use thicker spokes. Are you a fat ass like me? Use thicker spokes. The torsion forces on that wheel around turns is unbelievable, if you are taking more weight further faster then get bigger spokes.

If you are like KCvale and are not going much faster than normal bicycle speeds then normal spokes are probably fine, especially with shift kits.

Just keep an eye on spokes, learn how to keep them. Once you adjust to a certain and correct point the force is so evenly distributed that the destructive forces (uneven wheel shifting, slowly loosening spoke nipples) are unable to really effect the true if the wheel..

Once you have the wheel dialed in dont screw with it, use green loctite on the threads, don't taco your wheel on a you truck like I did. If you do wear a helmet like me and then get ready to rebuild or buy another wheel (which I did find a seller and called her before I was even out of the hospital bed and made plans to pick up a donar bike for its fork and front wheel, I had nothing else to do till the doc said I could go. )


Uhh right anyway, get the right gauge for the job, and do it right, then don't f**k it up.
 
Just get a freehub, freewheels are a different animal, where the bearing in a freewheel type hub is at the bottom of the freewheel, a shorter distant between bearings.. A freehub uses a bearing near the outside of the freehub, it's much closer to the overall axle nut width (dropout width) and on all cogs you are either basically on top of or within the area on the axle that both bearings are covering..

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Lose the freewheel hub, you motor power and weight combined are too much for the freewheel hub. If you are bending cogs too then at furthers the point. Get a freehub type hub and the bearings will support loads better. Your weakest link will be your chain then, and I have recommendations if that becomes a problem too.
I agree cassette hubs are way better, but if the OP's problem is weak rims the cassette hubs are still a good idea, because _old tech_ like multi-speed wheels containing a freewheel hub generally speaking come on low cost / low quality wheels.
So any pre-built 135mm OLD wheel with a freewheel hub is likely to also have a cheapo weak rim, galvanised wire spokes, and built entirely by machine.

I'm sure there are motored bicycle companies that are building freewheel hub wheels specifically for motored use, with decent rims and thick stainless spokes, though. I just can't remember who. Same company who do the top hat possibly??
The top hat adapter is cool. It lets you use any number of spokes and attaches the sprocket to the six bolt brake rotor mount on the hub so the spokes aren't getting any weird sideways stress. I would post a link but I forgot who it is making them..
 
Bummer BikeBerry.
The guys gave you good advice about a new wheel, or at least try using stronger spokes, but you have to realize putting an engine on a Mountain/Dirt Bicycle does not make it a Mountain/Dirt Motorcycle though some come pretty damn close...

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I love how his parking spot has missing pavement right where the oil will puddle in his pipe and drip out! Hehehe, that really cracks me up, but a nice JS soft tail build!

If you go soft tail you really need to go jackshaft to pedal side because it pretty damn hard to get a chain aligned the same as pedal side from the left side

Some soft tail bikes really do make for a nice street ride with some dirt road use, like taking the washboard dirt road effect out your handlebars and butt ;-}

This GT-LTS was a pleasure to ride in the hills and dirt roads around me...

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'Enhanced' Skyhawk 66, jackshafted to a NuVinici disc hub with a V-brake on the front.

The NuVinci didn't last long under that kind of power and it was replaced with a SA internal 5, but even then still a cool bike as the 5-speed is still holding up.

If you want a Mountain/Dirt Motorcycle you can ride on the street without a license, buy a soft tail motorcycle frame with pedals added!

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The $2K MotoPed kit I got came with everything dirt bike motorcycle quality.
I just put it together and added a 88cc 4-stroke 3-speed engine to it, heck I could have put a 250cc in and all the parts would take the power and speed down to dual big disc brakes to stop you.

But back to your needs BikeBerry, what bike are you using? And forgive me for making light of your user name, did you buy it from BikeBerry?
 
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Thing is, they are wide rims with 12 gauge spokes. Where I live, I'm forced to ride on bumpy dirt roads and half the time I find myself peddling because I have to go so slow over the craters. I would love never to have to true another wheel, that's why these mags from kingsmotorbikes have my eye. I know spokes help absorb the bumps, but my GT has suspension and I could just use it for those kinda trips. Is this stupid of me or should I do something different?
 
Thing is I have no experience with the mag wheels, so I probably shouldn't pipe in here, still I see the serious down hill riders and have yet to see one with mags. I can't imagine that you are putting your bike through greater stress than they are. This FuryontheInsid guy knows a s**tload about bikes, so if you want a badassed set of wheels listen up. I go for mid range double walls, rhinolites, mavics, and ditch witches.
 
Aw thanks for the compliment hehe.
I'm sure for the same money a used set of downhill/dirt jumping wheels will give you greater impact resistance than brand-spanking-new anything.
Unfashionably heavy stuff can be found quite cheap and in good condition. People who are prone to overkill but then later regret their decision because they vomit every time they try to pedal their bike uphill will sell their hard core wherlsets to get something more practical or race competitive.

Wheelset brands to watch for on the auction sites etc.. I'm not sure what is available in the USA but here's a few:
Halo SAS/Combat (my favourite), Hope Tech / Hope Hoops, Revell, DT Swiss, DMR Pro/Comp, Nukeproof Generator DH/AM, Atomlab Pimp/Pimplite rims, Sun Ringle MTX /Rhinolite rims, Mavic Deemax (Deemax have to be pretty old to get a good price though).
Goggle everything you see that looks interesting and see if it's well regarded by the "hard core mountain bike" community whoever the he.ll that is, and get an idea of what its really worth. Don't buy anything until you get assurance that the rim is true and hasn't had to be re-trued especially from a taco because a rim straightened by messing with the spoke tension will have spoke tensions all over the place.

I haven't any experience with the mags you mention either. But I am sure that you have no way to true those, and I'm very sceptical about them. There's absolutely no tension built into them, they just don't work anything like the same way as the tensioned arch of a spoked wheel works.

The thickness of the spokes doesn't really affect how strong the wheel is as much as the maximum spoke tension that the rim will allow (and whether you're using the maximum tension), and the evenness of the tension (a re-trued wheel may have grossly uneven spoke tension).

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http://www.cyclingabout.com/the-best-rims-for-bicycle-touring/


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http://www.halowheels.com/products/group/696
http://www.hopetech.com/products/wheels/
http://www.revellbicycles.com/pages/part.htm
http://www.dmrbikes.com/Catalogue/Wheels-tyres/Wheels/Pro
http://nukeproof.com/components/
http://sun-ringle.com/mtb/
http://www.atomlab.com/component-series/pimplite-series/
 
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So once you do your research check out pinkpike. It is a mountain bike forum, and access to a ton of new and used bike parts. I think the comradery of the community keeps things fairly honest.
 
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