Clutch Reassembling clutch - cover with clutch arm won't attach

:D :D :D

Fixed it up now, running just fine.

Had a hilarious moment after leaving TAFE, where I'm doing a mechanics course, left and made it about 200m up the street then bogged to a halt, thought maybe once the clutch got hot it started to slip or something, went back thinking I needed to open the side and retighten the flower nut, and one of my classmates reached past me as I was going for a screwdriver, to turn the fuel tap on.

:mad:

But I'm glad I made it work again, only other 2 stroke I've rebuilt was a Victa lawnmower we had to do for the course, and I didn't take the crankcase apart on that.

Thanks again for the help, next project is a tuned expansion chamber!

Is SBP the go for that or does anywhere offer a better pipe?
 
I have the same problem with the drive gear cover not wanting to to fit. The bucking bar is sticking out too much.

Strange thing is that it was working before....

I installed the engine today, drive gear cover was still ok, tried to start the engine which wouldn't start, then took the drive gear cover off and now it won't go back on.

Also how do you remove the ballbearing behind the bucking bar?
 
I'm having this same problem the clutch was working fine there was a stripped screw and I had to break the cover off to get inside no change but then suddenly it just wouldn't fit in anymore and I can't get the ball bearing out to check if there's 2 or 1 does anyone know any tricks to get it out?
 
lazarus thread...

zombie thread!



mmmm, braaaaaaains.

PS, check the dates on last posts ;)

um, tip it on its side, wack it a bit.

spray some WD40 or something in the hole.

use compressed air...
 
Damn, I'm going to resurrect this thread one more time... must have 9 lives.
My bike seems to be ready to fire up for the first time except for the fact that when my camshaft is out, my wheel spins freely, when in, it locks up. (So basically the reverse of what it should do). I can't figure out why. It was working fine until 1) I tightened the cable too tight and tried to pull it. Do you think something was shifted out of alignment?
 
Weird.
Clutch arm, and actuator cam pushes the bucking bar et al over to the RIGHT.. That's how it separates the clutch plate from the clutch pads. The only thing that is further right than the clutch plate is the clutch COVER. Remove it and see what happens. Maybe the plate was hitting it? IE maybe the clutch seperation is way more than necessary, it only needs to separate a bit. Hold lever in and tighten the flower nut down further, all the way and then back it off until there's only a small amount of separation.
Also as Al Fisherman says in this thread.. Something could be hitting the cable mount post (thing in the centre that your cable outer ends at) so take it out and operate the clutch arm by hand just to test. If that works you can put it back in but with it's locking nut moved down a bit so it doesn't go in as far this time.

Doesn't explain why it was fine before. Is the tiny flower nut locking screw missing?

Let us know how it goes.
 
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Weird.
Clutch arm, and actuator cam pushes the bucking bar et al over to the RIGHT.. That's how it separates the clutch plate from the clutch pads. The only thing that is further right than the clutch plate is the clutch COVER. Remove it and see what happens. Maybe the plate was hitting it? IE maybe the clutch seperation is way more than necessary, it only needs to separate a bit. Hold lever in and tighten the flower nut down further, all the way and then back it off until there's only a small amount of separation.
Also as Al Fisherman says in this thread.. Something could be hitting the cable mount post (thing in the centre that your cable outer ends at) so take it out and operate the clutch arm by hand just to test. If that works you can put it back in but with it's locking nut moved down a bit so it doesn't go in as far this time.

Doesn't explain why it was fine before. Is the tiny flower nut locking screw missing?

Let us know how it goes.

Thanks for the speedy response, I think I literally may have shifted the clutch arm and actuator somehow. Now that I've taken the cover off and simply put it back on (I didn't even really adjust anything) it seems to be out to engage, in to disengage. But I really may have shifted something because I have to push the clutch arm ALLLLLL the way in to get to disengage. Neighbor who just happened with working on his moped says a simple fix is just cutting the spring in half and taking out the new slack that will give me. Also he says my tensioner isn't giving the bottom half of my chain any play and it's too tight. Last but not least, we saw the chain was scoring/making a groove on the inside of the clutch cover.
Tomorrow I will cut spring and remove slack that leaves. Readjust tensioner. And IF the new slack in chain doesn't fix grinding problem I will groove out the spot where the chain is hitting.
 
Dont cut your spring. You can't glue it back together again if it turns out to not be the fix.
There's no rush.
Wait for more replies and have a look at things and a play but just don't do anything you can't undo. It worked okay before.
Which spring are we talking about anyway? The one on the bare clutch cable that sits in between the cable stop and the actuator arm? That can be removed but just to make pulling the lever on handlebars easier.
I'm sure there's something else going on.
 
it seems to be out to engage, in to disengage. ........
But I have to push the clutch arm ALLLLLL the way in to get to disengage.

The clutch arm is supposed to be out when the clutch is engaged (to drive), pulled in towards centre to disengage (when freewheeling, or pedalling the bike)

Having to pull so far to disengage is wrong..
Is the cam damaged? That's the vertical pin with the flat side, operated by the arm.
Is the bucking bar damaged or not protruding from the shaft as much as it should/ used to? It should be about 6mm 1/4" if memory serves me correctly..
 
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