reclaimer's Dyno Roadster w.i.p.

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by reclaimer, Feb 17, 2008.

  1. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

    I had my Free Spirt Elite mtb nearly complete. When I realized it isnt as comfy as it was years ago(I'm getting stiffer, lol). It was sad to put her away, shes been good to me for 12 years. Life goes on thou.

    Looked around and ended up ordering a roadster on ebay.I've had it for a couple weeks, but just got to work on it last night. I plan to take my time, I still have alot of parts to order. The tank will prob be the biggest hold up. That tear drop tank just doesn't suit it. It really needs some kinda in frame tank.

    I got going on the motor mount last night. I think how your motor sits in your bike makes or brakes how good it looks. I didn't want the motor all the way back on the seat tube or up front on the down tube. To better center the motor I built a craddle of sorts.

    Heres some poorly lit, kinda fuzzy pics I snapped late last night. (hope this works)(yay it worked)
     

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  2. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    cool looking mount
    stretches are my favorite style for motoring
    keep an eye on your mount...I made a similar mount and had metal fatigue cracks happen (these little engines put out a surprising amount of torque)
     

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  3. h0tr0d

    h0tr0d Member

    Finally!! I have the same frame that you do, but my bike is the orange Slick Daddy version with the wide rear. I am about to start my project and have the same problem you do with motor placement. I did however order a moped tank from ebay to better fit the looks of the frame. Keep taking pics. Im subscribed to this thread and cant wait to see what solution you come up with.
     
  4. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

    azkronic, that mount cracked? How thick are/were the pieces you doubled up?

    I'd love to see a pic of your tank h0tr0d.I hopped over to Ebay, some of them have real potential.

    Just a small update.I did the free coaster mod to the rear. Pulled the brake shoes and added two thick washers. Now the spring clutch(thingy) doesn't engage with the coaster arm nut(thingy). Finished it off with lots of grease. I haven't ridden it but it seems to work well. Sorry no pics.

    My kit (boygofast) came with a 5 bolt rear sprocket. It fit the small flanged freewheel on my mtb great. This coaster hub not so great.(I think the mtb had less spokes) Its gonna have issues.

    Pulled the fender apart. Applied adhesive backed rubber to the tops of the supports. Hopefully it'll deaden them some. Trimmed the fender some for the drive chain to pass thru. After I cut it I put rubber edging filled w/ rtv on the rough edge.

    I bought some bell single speed chain, doesn't fit either sprocket. Maybe I'll just get bigger chain but I'd rather not. Lights and brakes are on the way lots to do.
     

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  5. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    the plates I doubled up were approx 1/16" thick each (got the metal at ace hardware)
    they cracked in front of and behind the stingray mount
    approx 4-500 miles I guess, it was probably the way I bent them (hammer and vice, no heat)
     
  6. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

    I'll be sure to keep an eye on it. It's 1/8" I got from tractor supply. Bent it in the same manner clamp, push, hammer, bigger hammer, 40lb steel dumbbell. No heat.

    edit: After further review it was a 20lb dumbbell.
     
  7. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

    Another Lil update.

    Mounted a light switch(hard to see in the pic), mirror and dual pull brake lever/ throttle.

    It doesn't have any brakes yet so I cant comment on the lever. The throttle however I like much more than my stock one. Its bigger and the cable is longer(the stock one was too short).

    I also got around to drilling holes in the rear fender and mounting the tail light/ license plate holder.

    I mounted the horn on the end of the springer bolt.
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 2, 2008
  8. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

    I'd been having trouble mounting my rear sprocket. I just couldn't get it centered right. That coupled with not having any brakes on the bike (or a suitable mounting location) prompted me to order new hubs. The first of which arrived today. A 44t solid hd hub and brake from bicycle engines.

    At first glance it appeared to be near the same size as my coaster hub. After getting the coaster free from the rim, its a good bit narrower than the hd hub.

    I've never built a wheel before but figured I'd take a stab at it. It was a brand new wheel to start so it came apart real easy. Armed with Sheldon brown's tut and some patience, 2.5 hrs later I have a new wheel.:grin:

    It still needs some truing and a freewheel, but it wasn't near as hard as I thought it would be.

    The second hub is a Sturmey Archer x-fd, I ordered about 3 weeks ago. Just shipped yesterday(thats what I get for buying it at the cheapest price I could find). Its much bigger than the front hub I have now. I think the spokes would stick out a half inch. Maybe I'll let a shop do that one. I had fun building the rear though.
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 13, 2008
  9. hellbilly

    hellbilly Guest

    Reclaimer: I'll be keeping an eye on you project since I have 2 Kustom Kruiser Roadsters that I plan to motorize next winter. I just finished with a couple of Nirve Switchblade Choppers, so that's enough for now since spring is upon us. Anyway, I used the Sturmey Archer X-FD Hub Brake for the front wheels and they work great. I had a shop build the wheels because they need to calculate for shorter spokes. It was also recommended to respoke in a criss-cross pattern for added strength to the wheel. You may want to consider that. My shop charged $65 for the spokes and labor, and I supplied the brake. Sure made a nice wheels, so worth the $$ to be able to stop in a hurry if need be. Good luck on your project. These seem like nice comfortable cruiser bikes, but would not want to peddle up a hill!!
     
  10. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    the x-fd is a great hub
    I have had mine for more than a year
    the wheel has been on 3 motoredbikes and has 2000+ miles on it....still like new :D
     
  11. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

    Test fit the rear wheel today.

    It needed to be spread 1.5" or so, further than it wanted to go. So I grabbed the jack out of the car. Loosely draped a hand towel over it. Slid it between the dropouts. Slowly cranked it open 3-3.5", removed the jack. I was then able to open it enough(with a lil force), to fit the wheel.

    Mounted my headlight with some bar ends and other hardware I found laying around. Some of its going to change but you get the gist.

    One of my fears raised its ugly head. Mounting the engine where it is looks cool, but it raises the chain line up into the frame. Not sure how I'll deal with that. I'd love to try a two speed jack shaft(dont know if it would work). Might be too much being my first real build. Any ideas?
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 16, 2008
  12. hellbilly

    hellbilly Guest

    Hard to tell from the pics just where the chain is going to give you trouble, but maybe you could take care of it with a tensioner, or a narrower chain, or some washers on the axle? Not sure I understand why the frame had to spread by 1 1/2". That is really alot.
     
  13. hellbilly

    hellbilly Guest

    Unless you mean 1.5 centimeters?
     
  14. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

    The frame needed to be spread so much cause the HD hub is much wider than the coaster hub was. I was unable to come close by hand. The spreading is a none issue though It was easy and had no effect on the chain path.(at least not with bmx chain)

    edit: Even now that its been spread I have to pull them apart to get the wheel in.

    The chain just rides too high, hitting the crossbar the fender bolts to. Heres another pic, better angle.
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 16, 2008
  15. hellbilly

    hellbilly Guest

    I see what you mean. Do you think you might have to reposition the engine to drop down a bit? I like the mount that you made. Hope you can make it work!
     
  16. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Can you go to a smaller rear sprocket? That would lower the top run of the chain.
     
  17. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

    I could and will go to a smaller sprocket. I should say, I hope tp be able to. However I took a kinda blind leap of faith last night. I ordered a jack shaft and a 2 speed jack shaft form bmikarts.com .

    We'll see what happens, not sure it'll work. At the least I'll be able to get the chain line where I want it.http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=7803&highlight=2+speed+jack+shaft
     
  18. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

    Since it'll have a centrifugal clutch in the drive train it may be tricky to start, being a H.T.

    I remember a vid here of a fella standing next to his bike. He let out the clutch picked up the rear, kicked the peddle down, an it started up. I'm thinking of something similar.

    the drive train looks kinda like this. H.T. to a jack shaft(1) with a dual sprocket cent. clutch to a 2 speed jack shaft(2) then to the rear wheel.

    I'm thinking of running the peddle chain to the 1st jack shaft connected with a freewheel to kick it over. hmm than I'd not be able to peddle it. Might have to add an electric starter.

    Will not using my H.T. clutch hurt it, just leaving it engaged?
     

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  19. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

  20. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    It seems like I saw somewhere someone using a cordless drill for a starter. I can't remember where. The prices at DB Electrical look good. I'd like to see how you would mount one.
     
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