Hi Galliano,
Here are the facts,
I was the one that located the front tire against a building, opened the throttle untill the clutch smoked, removed the glaze from the shoes, and repeated the process until 95% to 100% of the shoes contacted the hub. End result was a record setting, wheelie machine, that managed 40.3 MPH in 150 feet[ask JBCruise on this site, as he rode it]. I doubt the clutch will fix itself by making it smoke, but will in fact glaze the shoes so badly it might just stop moving forward completely. I would also avoid using the "smoke" method on the latest version of the clutch because it may cause the roll pins to snap from the 1/8" contact area in the hub, and spin the drive pulley on the hub [serious problem].
I ran actual Dyno tests with Mobile One synthetic oil. I even tested it in a motor for almost 1000 miles. Facts are............. Not a single degree of motor tempature difference, because the oil is thinner it foamed quickly, and left the motor via the vent system [5 to 7 ounces in 15 miles at WOT]. The exact top speed [68 MPH] on the Dyno using Mobile One synthetic & Shell straight 40 weight.
The average NE motor doesn't complete break-in until 500 miles, and synt. stops the rings & cylinder from mating completely, and I don't agree with certain experts, but if you must use synthetic, at least wait until after the 500 mile mark.
All of my record setting motors used straight 40 Wt, but I change it about every 200 miles after break-in, after all how expensive is 8 ounces of regular oil. During break-in I change at 50 miles, 100 miles, 200 miles, 400 miles [whoops, there goes an entire quart], and every 200 miles thereafter. I have motors with over 6000 miles of "rough" treatment, and they maintain the same compression, start easy, idle, run cooler, and get great mileage.
Please don't consider this post as bashing anyone's advice, but I actually test these concepts and supply the facts to anyone interested.
Have fun,
