jbcruisin
Member
Here's the link to see the Marylin Monroe Royal Triton commercial. Also I found some Royal Triton oil for sale online but it was 15-40 synthetic. I'll keep looking. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lRf6MuV7og
Recommended Engine Oil Brand?
- Thread starter Hal the Elder
- Start date
Hi Everyone,
I noticed the Royal Purple racing oil is available in staight 40 weight and is synt. I will test in some of my race motors. The only problem I have using synt. oil is it is too thin and foams and so far it was of no value. Maybe the straight weight synt. wouldn't exit the motor or "foam" as does the multi-grades. I will test it this summer and report my findings on this site.
Have fun,
I noticed the Royal Purple racing oil is available in staight 40 weight and is synt. I will test in some of my race motors. The only problem I have using synt. oil is it is too thin and foams and so far it was of no value. Maybe the straight weight synt. wouldn't exit the motor or "foam" as does the multi-grades. I will test it this summer and report my findings on this site.
Have fun,
K
Kep1a
Guest
I know for fact that in an anti lock brake class that I attended they said under no circumstance should you use synthetic brake fluid because when the pump runs and forces the fluid through the orifices it foams and then air gets into your brake lines. This would be devastatingly dangerous. I also know Lift-U warns that synthetic hydraulic oil is not to be used in their lifts because it will foam and put air in the hydraulic cylinders creating a hazard for the wheel chair passenger. I must assume that pushing under pressure synthetic fluids through a restricted orifice causes foaming.
That also leads me to believe that the Synthetic engine oil has the same properties and will also foam in a oil thrasher design motor. I know you will let us know what you find out so I will wait for your update.
Kep1a
That also leads me to believe that the Synthetic engine oil has the same properties and will also foam in a oil thrasher design motor. I know you will let us know what you find out so I will wait for your update.
Kep1a
RdKryton
Active Member
Kep1a
That is good to know. I'm an now sure I am going to stay with Castrol. I have been using it all along and I'm staying with it.
Thanks
Jim
That is good to know. I'm an now sure I am going to stay with Castrol. I have been using it all along and I'm staying with it.
Thanks
Jim
KilroyCD
Active Member
I had noticed that it was a blended synthetic, blended with RP's proprietary Synerlec technology. I was wondering what that is, so I looked on their site and found this:
"Synerlec, Royal Purple’s proprietary, additive lubricant technology, is the cornerstone of RP's entire product line. It creates an ionic bond that adheres to metal parts to provide continuous protection even at start-up and strengthens the oil to provide unparalleled performance and protection.
Royal Purple’s film strength is up to 400% stronger than other oils. High film strength prevents contact between metal parts and improves sealing inside the engine for more complete combustion and dramatically reduced wear. Improved combustion creates more power, better fuel economy and reduced emissions.
Royal Purple remains on the metal surface long after ordinary lubricants would have been squeezed out by pressure and heat. It actually improves engine surfaces by responding to increased pressure with increased viscosity until the metal peaks (asperities) undergo deformation and flow into the low spots. Over time, the metal surface becomes extremely smooth and can even develop a mirror-like surface."
It seems to me that if one was to use this, only use it in an engine that is broken in once the piston rings are seated properly. I'm curious to read Quenton's findings.
"Synerlec, Royal Purple’s proprietary, additive lubricant technology, is the cornerstone of RP's entire product line. It creates an ionic bond that adheres to metal parts to provide continuous protection even at start-up and strengthens the oil to provide unparalleled performance and protection.
Royal Purple’s film strength is up to 400% stronger than other oils. High film strength prevents contact between metal parts and improves sealing inside the engine for more complete combustion and dramatically reduced wear. Improved combustion creates more power, better fuel economy and reduced emissions.
Royal Purple remains on the metal surface long after ordinary lubricants would have been squeezed out by pressure and heat. It actually improves engine surfaces by responding to increased pressure with increased viscosity until the metal peaks (asperities) undergo deformation and flow into the low spots. Over time, the metal surface becomes extremely smooth and can even develop a mirror-like surface."
It seems to me that if one was to use this, only use it in an engine that is broken in once the piston rings are seated properly. I'm curious to read Quenton's findings.
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Hi Everyone,
As many already know, I found it necessary to design a breather system for the new edition Whizzer motors. All WC-1, NE, and SE [what I call the Ambassador motor because the serial number contains "SE"]. Problem on WC-1 is passages too small to allow crankcase venting, and on the NE & SE, a large hole [.475"] allows massive amounts of oil stuck in the lifter cavity, and quickly fills the vent tube, causing the free flow of oil. I know for a fact [because of actual testing] that synthetic oil "foams". And adding "foaming" oil to the equasion reduces the chances of good crankcase ventilation.
It isn't necessary to be a rocket scientist to understand that in order to reduce the oil blowing out the vent system the pressure must be reduced somewhere in the system. To me "foaming" oil is similar to shaking a Coke [or Pepsi, or whatever], and increases the pressure, and as "foam" it is easier to push out the vent hose than liquid oil. Also remember the Whizzer motors [all vintage & new edition] use the "slinger" [dasher, dipper,etc] system, and therefore the rod works like a high speed blender, so oil that doesn't foam is a must in this type of motor.
So my advice remains the same, use straight 40 Weight oil, and no matter what remember, I have actually tested these concepts.
I will still test the 40 weight synthetic later [when it is warmer] to see if it foams, but mainly because I want to know what happens. I will gladly share the results here.
Have fun,
As many already know, I found it necessary to design a breather system for the new edition Whizzer motors. All WC-1, NE, and SE [what I call the Ambassador motor because the serial number contains "SE"]. Problem on WC-1 is passages too small to allow crankcase venting, and on the NE & SE, a large hole [.475"] allows massive amounts of oil stuck in the lifter cavity, and quickly fills the vent tube, causing the free flow of oil. I know for a fact [because of actual testing] that synthetic oil "foams". And adding "foaming" oil to the equasion reduces the chances of good crankcase ventilation.
It isn't necessary to be a rocket scientist to understand that in order to reduce the oil blowing out the vent system the pressure must be reduced somewhere in the system. To me "foaming" oil is similar to shaking a Coke [or Pepsi, or whatever], and increases the pressure, and as "foam" it is easier to push out the vent hose than liquid oil. Also remember the Whizzer motors [all vintage & new edition] use the "slinger" [dasher, dipper,etc] system, and therefore the rod works like a high speed blender, so oil that doesn't foam is a must in this type of motor.
So my advice remains the same, use straight 40 Weight oil, and no matter what remember, I have actually tested these concepts.
I will still test the 40 weight synthetic later [when it is warmer] to see if it foams, but mainly because I want to know what happens. I will gladly share the results here.
Have fun,
Last edited:
Skyliner70cc
Active Member
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If I had a Whizzer, this is what I'd use in it: Shell Helix Ultra 10W60
If its good enough for a Ferrari, its good enough for a whizzer.
If its good enough for a Ferrari, its good enough for a whizzer.
RdKryton
Active Member
What many people don't understand about a Whizzer engine is that it is an early 1940's design. The oiling system is designed to use the oil that was available then not the multi-visc oils of today. Multi-visc oils didn't appear until after WWII. Whizzer engine design precedes this oil development by several years. Lighter weight oils will be ejected from Whizzer engines no matter how high a quality of oil they are. The design calls for straight 40wt oil because that's was the only type of oil available at that time the engine was designed. Even straight 30wt oil is too thin for a Whizzer engine and it will not stay in the crankcase long. It may foam up as well.
That's my spin on the oil thing for Whizzers the way I understand it.
Jim
That's my spin on the oil thing for Whizzers the way I understand it.
Jim
Hal the Elder
Member
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Different motors require different oils.
Shell Helix Ultra 10W60 will not stay in a Whizzer's crankcase...it was formulated for the Ferrari, which is a completely different engine design, requiring a completely different lubricant.
The old-style, low-compression, flat head Whizzer design requires straight SAE 40 and will spit out anything lighter, including the lighter oils in multi-vis blends.
The Ferrarri engine has a full-pressure lubrication system with a positive-displacement oil pump and drilled rods, journals, mains, and camshaft bearings.
The whizzer has a splash system consisting of a scoop attached to the connecting rod. The oil is SPLASHED on the Whizzer's vital parts under NO pressure!
That's real OLD technology, which requires heavy oil!
HAL
Shell Helix Ultra 10W60 will not stay in a Whizzer's crankcase...it was formulated for the Ferrari, which is a completely different engine design, requiring a completely different lubricant.
The old-style, low-compression, flat head Whizzer design requires straight SAE 40 and will spit out anything lighter, including the lighter oils in multi-vis blends.
The Ferrarri engine has a full-pressure lubrication system with a positive-displacement oil pump and drilled rods, journals, mains, and camshaft bearings.
The whizzer has a splash system consisting of a scoop attached to the connecting rod. The oil is SPLASHED on the Whizzer's vital parts under NO pressure!
That's real OLD technology, which requires heavy oil!
HAL
Betcha Ferrari uses an oil pump and doesn't beat it up with the dasher attached to the bottom of the rod. It is important to remember the Whizzer uses a splasher type oil system, it simply throws it everywhere. I built a few sidecovers with see thru panels [sent one to Dave at Whizzer, no charge] to watch the oil travel inside the motor, and it really does coat everything in the motor. Just for the record, hot oil will melt plexi-glass.
Along with the "pump-less" oil system it is also a good idea to understand the difference between air cooled and water cooled motors. It is the norm for air cooled motors to run a tad hotter [maybe even a couple hundred degrees hotter] than water cooled.
Just a few comments to consider in the quest for different types of motor oil for the Whizzer motor.
Have fun,
Along with the "pump-less" oil system it is also a good idea to understand the difference between air cooled and water cooled motors. It is the norm for air cooled motors to run a tad hotter [maybe even a couple hundred degrees hotter] than water cooled.
Just a few comments to consider in the quest for different types of motor oil for the Whizzer motor.
Have fun,
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