Removing the rear wheel from an EZIP Trailz

Discussion in 'Electric Bicycles' started by Unregistered, Oct 16, 2008.

  1. Unregistered

    Unregistered Guest

    Hi all. I just bought this bike, and as a newbie, it looks extremely difficult to remove the motor in order to get the rear wheel off. I'm going to be using this bike to commute to work, and I definitely don't want to end up stuck if I ever get a flat on the rear tire.

    I'm also looking to waterproof it for rainy weather.

    Any advice??

  2. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    I have seen your topic down here and I don't want you to go unaswered even though I know nothing about the bike you have.

    Generally speaking, a heavy duty tube and tire liners will help.

    As for specific suggestions and waterproofing, why don't you join up and post your questions in th electric bike forum? Probably get a better response there.
  3. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    I have to credit another bike site for this post,

    Removing the E-Zip rear wheel for tire repair

    1) Loosen 15 mm axle nut on motor side.
    2) Loosen 17 mm thin nut between dropout and motor mount (Requires thin (cone) wrench)
    3) Loosen 5 mm bolt clamping motor mount to dropout
    4) Slide motor mount forward, to loosen chain
    5) Remove chain from motor sprocket
    6) Remove the 6 bolts holding the motor to the motor mount. Be sure to save the 2 standoffs.
    7) Remove motor from mount and hang from battery rack with twine, tape or whatever
    8) Remove nut from 5mm adjusting screw on front of motor mount
    9) Slide motor mount back to clear adjusting screw from dropout bracket
    10) Loosen 15 mm axle on right side
    11) Remove wheel with mount attached
    12) Fix tire
    13) Install by reversing steps 11 to 1
  4. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    At least it's secure where it is. :)
    I love my ezip.
    If you're going to remove you're tire do it at home and bullet proof it with every method available on this forum. However I think the tire, tube and wheels are of excellent quality on these bikes and aren't prone to failure unless you're really unlucky. I've had no problems so far with mine, several hundred miles so far.
  5. ozzyu812

    ozzyu812 Member

    I cut the wireleading to the motor and put "bullet" wire connecters, each one going the oppostie way to avoid any confusion when plugging it back in. I take the wheel and motor out as one unit.

    I have riden it in a steady rain without any trouble. I do have a milk crate style basket with a solid bottom that provides some shelter for it but not much. I put "rope dope" ,sorry I only know the slang name, around the inside of the top cover of the electrical box and siloconed the hole in front where the wires come out.
  6. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    Are we talking about that 400 dollar Wal-mart bike?

    If so, I'd be very interested in hearing more about it. Power, reliability, etc. I've considered buying one. It's a good price. Thanks.
  7. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

  8. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    Thanks, Esteban.

    It looks like a bike that's just about right for me, at a good price.

    I could ride my HT in the summer and the e-zip in the winter. Sounds nice. I might have to get one.
  9. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    There is a local guy, somewhat mentally disabled, that rides his all the time. He loves it !
    Some people add a 2nd back-up battery for longer range. Remember, with electric bikes, the more you use it, the less range !
  10. ozzyu812

    ozzyu812 Member

    Be prepared to spend more money on good Lithium batteries. Don't even waste your money on 2nd SLA. Otherwise they are very good bikes. The thing is really built to be motorized!
  11. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    This is not always the case, but may be where you live. Where I live, there isn't a decent hill for many miles , so it is easier on the batteries & very easy to casually assist a little. Much different case in hilly areas.
  12. turramaher

    turramaher New Member

    Having just had to repair a flat tire on my Trailz eZip, I can vouch for these instructions.

    However, I was able to remove the motor without unbolting it from the motor mount (step 6 in these instructions). Might be different on different model bikes (mine is a 2011), but it saves a lot of fiddling around.

    I can also recommend that you have thought about step 7 first otherwise you have a heavy motor hanging by its connecting electrical wires, which can only lead to tears.

    Finally, "admission of stupidity" time: despite having changed heaps of rear wheels, do you think I remembered to disconnect the brake before undoing everything !?!? Maybe that should be listed as step 0...
  13. WheeledWonder

    WheeledWonder New Member

    Trailz Kit with Li-Ion?


    Is it possible to get a Trailz kit with a Li-Ion battery instead of the SLA for roughly the difference between the battery prices (about $550)?
    If so, where?
    If not, does it make sense to get the kit with the SLA and also get a Li-Ion battery at the same time (besides logistical reasons for back-and-forth commutes) ?

    How many charge cycles are folks REALLY getting with Trailz SLAs?
    How many real cycles with Trailz Li-Ions?

    If you do the math with 200 cycles for $105 SLAs and with 1200 cycles for $350 Li-Ions, it's a no brainer. Even with 400 cycles for SLAs, it's not really even. Li-Ions, mean less weight, less charging time, less batteries to toss.
    Is there something I'm missing here?
    What factors argue against Li-Ions?

    Has someone posted the guidelines for charging and discharging Li-Ions?
  14. slickdude

    slickdude Member

    I have had my EZIP - Trailz Men's Bike for 6 months now. Takes about 6 to 8 hours to charge from near zero. Battery still seems to hold a 6 mile range okay but starting to slow some what. Luckily Currie is across the valley from me, but they have a policy that forces you to will-call parts the next day or ship it. A bad policy if you are local and can just pickup what you need. All things considered, the bike I have has been decent for riding though the front shocks on the forks are now seeing leakage. When I got it, I immediately replaced the hard saddle with a Gel comfort seat, added a horn, strobing led lights back and front and a small rechargable Ion music player for tunes on my average 10 mile jaunts. I would say the quality has been okay so far and stories vary. One of the mods I am in the process of doing is chucking the mountain bar and adding a Stingray Style so I can seat better. The stretched MTN Bike position just kills my back after a bit. The EZIP also comes with off-road tires and tubes as they have been extra thick. Originally I got mine through a Pepboys and the deal was $299.00 so it was a decent thing. If I were starting from scratch though, I would consider a decent quality cruiser and add a front hub motor setup. You can mount a rack for their SLA batteries if you go the 450 watt route and add a lion battery later. This only requires a quick swapout of the front wheel from various sellers. I may yet consider that in the near future. Currie wants 400 bucks for a Lion battery and for that amount I can weigh many other options including cracking the older battery case and installing new sla's in there too, the cheapest option of course. Hope this helped those who inquired. BTW, Tina at Currie is a sweetheart of a person ;) even if I disagree with their will-call policies.

    Oh P.S. here is my music player for those who want tunes. It has worked great and after a night charge averages about 8 play hours of tunes. The life of it though depends how loud the speaker is which can be played quite loud while riding. I usually set mine at mid way. It charges through an USB cable included and a USB to Power adapter works as well.
  15. DrkAngel

    DrkAngel Member

    T-Plug Mod

    1st! - Install quick connect near motor. Makes all work much easier-faster.
    I used a "Dean's Plug, (T plug or XT for better grip), and cut the motor wire at 2 1/4" from motor ... my "standard", quick swaps between bikes.

    This basic 1 time mod can save you 1/2 hour on any rear wheel work!
  16. DrkAngel

    DrkAngel Member

    Found replacement picture.
    I standardized at 2.25" (2¼") from motor

    XYD-16 Bracket.jpg
  17. slickdude

    slickdude Member

    Did it a long time ago. Went with a Papamotors 1000 48 system, schwabe green apple tires aeosop trailer hitch, rides awesome. Cheaper than replacing a lead acid pack every 6 months. Papamotors was the best decision I could have ever made. Very honorable firm great folks, PING battery lasts and lasts. Currie on the other hand treated me very bad. Poor service and a slow expensive short lived product.
  18. DrkAngel

    DrkAngel Member

    eZip Gearing.JPG

    Best thing about the eZip motors is you can regear and or revoltage.

    I plan on maintaining multiple quick swap motor-wheel combinations.
    Motor - Wheel
    9T ....... 20T = oem 15-16mph@24V ~23mph@37V
    9T ....... 16T = 16T mod 20mph@24V, 21mph+@25.9V, 27mph@37V
    13T ..... 20T = 13T mod 20mph@22.2V, 22+mph@25.9V, 30mph@44.4V
    9T ....... 22T = 22T mod 14mph@24V, ~20mph@33.3V

    Combined with my various battery packs:
    22.2V 30.24Ah LiPo
    24V SLA 2 - (new) never used, charged monthly
    25.9V 2 - 26Ah 1 new 1 3+ years old
    33.3V 31.2Ah 1 very used building 1 with new cells
    37V = none at present
    44.4V = plan on 44.4V 21.6Ah LiPo & Lipo 22.2-44.4V switch pack but future project ...

    I will have a variety of speed and economy choices!
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2014
  19. DrkAngel

    DrkAngel Member

    A few gearing options ...

    9T vs 13T.jpg