repack cb-110 hubs without cages?

jatgm1

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how does one do this properly? do i need to get different size balls for the ball bearings, or just more balls. i already took it apart, and it actually turns out that either i lost a ball, or ive been riding it without one for a while. since i took it apart as carfully as possible and didnt hear one hit the floor or see it anywhere on the floor i think they shipped me this wheel with a ball missing in the bearing. and i called shimano, apparently it normally uses for the outside bearings 7/32 and for the pedal drive bearing 1/4 diameter balls. it looks like the cage thats between the balls has enough space in between each ball for another ball, potentially a little more. their are supposed to be 9 balls total i think in the outside bearings.
 
Well I don't recommend changing bearing size, I'll put that out first.

As far as how? Basically the same as how it came apart, my front wheel has cageless bearings. I just wad up some thick grease in the race of the wheel bearing which it needs anyways, and stick them in place, it can get frustrating if the axle bumps one as you're putting it in and knocks them loose but just take your time. If an axle is inserted without the cone on it you can install them kinda quickly and easily, just make sure to pack enough fresh grease in it.
 
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Oh and I heard that the axle bearings are universal, but this is from an old timer, while it's probably true that they used the same bearing type on basically every bike back then it doesn't mean I holds true now, if you have to get a match go to the local bike shop, chances are they have them by the 10s of thousands and can't even give them away, you could probably get a small handful free of charge.

On an unrelated note, ball bearings make for great paint mixers as long as the container is small enough, I have model paints for small things like trains or whatever, I use to use a toothpick to mix them but it just takes too long and wastes paint, put a small clean bearing in each jar and now it's an easy shake to mix like a spray paint can.
 
thanks, oh, and can i just fill the whole hub with high temp bearing grease?
 
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Don't think I could use anything else on bikes, motored or not, works great and a tub will last you 10 years
 
And you shouldn't need to fill the hub with grease to answer that question, the stuff won't need to be anywhere but on the bearings, anything more is excessive and will be one of the most messy experiences you have this year if you pack it full will grease, you will become very angry at yourself for making such a huge f***ing mess and you'll hate yourself for it especially because you won't have nearly enough paper towels on hand to contain the disaster zone.

Then you'll never do that again.
 
Ah I see. I figure it would last longer at high speeds. I got a big syringe so I thought I would just basically inject the bearing with it. Just figured it would mean more time before I need to repack it. I used to do that with the grubee clutch shaft, under the cable stop. But you make a good point. Maybe with news papers..
 
Ah I see. I figure it would last longer at high speeds. I got a big syringe so I thought I would just basically inject the bearing with it. Just figured it would mean more time before I need to repack it. I used to do that with the grubee clutch shaft, under the cable stop. But you make a good point. Maybe with news papers..
Chances are that as long as you have enough grease it will be the bearings that go bad first, more grease just adds more rolling resistance at higher speeds, no matter how much extra grease you add beyond the minimum amount your bearings will wear down at the same rate. Replacing the grease often might be the only thing that will extend the life of the bearings, but it won't be by much. Replacing the bearings and cones often enough will get you the longest time from your hub, now that they basically make the hub and bearing race impossible to take apart that is. Best prevention is good grease properly packed and using the proper seal to keep the water and dirt out.
 
I actually converted a wheel from normal cage bearing to a sealed bearing , just tap the cones out of the hub and pop in some sealed bearings although it seems to have worked well i havent tested the wheel much . reason i did it was because one of the cones in the hub was cracked and was wearing out normal caged bearings rapidly i.e. 5 mile ride . anything is possible!

one other hub i drilled the centre and tapped it to fit a grease nipple i pumped it full of grease and noticed a lot of resistance just like frankenstein says but a quick ride whizzed most of the excess out that wheel lasted about 1000 miles before i buckled it in a pothole but i would simply pump a bit of grease in now and then, the centrifugal force spins the grease into the bearings without having to remove the wheel it was a great idea for easily extending bearing life.
 
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