Sprockets resourceful cheapskate's replacement sprocket

greasy.

that coaster arm setup isn't going to work out for you. it needs to be totally rigid if you don't want your bike to suddenly turn into a fixie
IDK, that's got some ring of truth to it, but OTOH I've gotten successful coaster brake performance for thousands of miles with it thus jankily set up.

however, it's a moot point to me right now, because last time I rebuilt my rear wheel (to replace bent axle with some threaded bar stock from Napa Auto parts that I ground & hardened at home), I misplaced one of these little pieces and discovered I could leave them off and assemble it as a free wheel
148510706857873051171.jpg
 
greasy.

that coaster arm setup isn't going to work out for you. it needs to be totally rigid if you don't want your bike to suddenly turn into a fixie
do you think this dubious coaster arm attachment of mine would lead to reduced lifetime for the bearings though? because I notice that I've mostly never had to replace bearings on regular bikes I had, but it's a different story on this build. I'd assumed it was just greater forces involved, but maybe my brake arm mount is contributing

and don't worry guys, I will get some kind of reliable back brake working before I tune it up to exceed 30mph again
 
do you think this dubious coaster arm attachment of mine would lead to reduced lifetime for the bearings though? because I notice that I've mostly never had to replace bearings on regular bikes I had, but it's a different story on this build. I'd assumed it was just greater forces involved, but maybe my brake arm mount is contributing

and don't worry guys, I will get some kind of reliable back brake working before I tune it up to exceed 30mph again
motorized bikes are just really hard on wheel bearings. I repack mine just about every time I think to do it.
 
I pulled those little brake shoes out and left the brake arm off, much easier that way, I don't have to work about clearance and it still fits the manic mechanic adapter. It's basically a free wheel now. But when I did repack my hub the grease was extremely dark and some of the balls looked worn and I replaced them. After a few thousand miles from stock wheel hubs go figure. Anyway point being I would ditch the coaster brake arm and just keep the shoes out, and make sure the wheel is nice and tight.
 
but not too tight or you'll crack the bearing races.
yeah, when I've over tightened it always turns one or two bearing balls to chowder then if I'm not quick enough to repack fresh bearings it'll bend the axle and or damage the races
 
Back
Top