riding the Titan XC50S across america

Discussion in 'Travelling, Commuting & Safety' started by biker2013, Nov 23, 2012.

  1. biker2013

    biker2013 New Member

    So this summer I plan on riding the Titan xc50s from Dax across the country. In all honesty, what are the chances of having a catastrophic failure?
    I will only be averaging like 10-15mph because I'm going with friends who are riding unassisted. I'm going to college next year and plan on running cross country so I want to run in the mornings and don't want to screw up my legs.

    1. Can I make it?
    2. What spare parts should I bring?
    3. How often should I rest the motor?
    4. General Maintenance?
     

  2. fredie

    fredie Member

    good luck . you can make it . go for it
     
  3. BigBlue

    BigBlue Active Member

    biker2013,

    Read this and your other post. I am also contemplating riding the Northern tier in a couple years. My plan is similar to yours, but I plan to pedal assist at 15 mph and have the engine speed along at 15 mph for a average of 30 mph.

    I think the Titan xc50s is a good engine and capable of completing the trip. It is the same engine as the Huasheng 142f.

    I think you are asking too general of a question and need you to be more specific. Why such a large engine for 10 to 15 mph and not the smaller xc35? or the Huasheng 37cc from Live Fast Motors (I wouldn't buy the kits)? What type of mounting system are you going to use? What transmission are you going to use? How much is your budget for your motorized bike? What type of bicycle are you going use? Do you plan on traveling cheap (camping) or credit card (Hotel)? How many miles do you plan per day. What size fuel tank? Are you pulling a trailer?

    Basically, there are 4 type of setups: 1. Friction drive - Dax, Staton and DIY 2. In-the-frame - Grubee 4G (With Oil-lite bushing bearing mod) and EZM q-matic and DIY. 3. Gearbox drive from Staton. 4. Axle drive from Staton. I don't like his particular mount and would recommend a different setup. I would weld a mount to the seat stays and chain stays. Other kits are available, but for a touring trip, I wouldn't recommend.

    1. Can I make it? Sure you can
    2. What spare parts should I bring? Spark plug, starter rope and maybe a spare carburetor?
    3. How often should I rest the motor? I think your going at a slow pace, it shouldn't harm the engine. After break-in switch to a premium synthetic oil.
    4. General Maintenance? Clean air filter. Adjust the valves and check the spark plug? Definitely oil changes for a 4 stroke engine. A 2 stroke would eliminate oil changes, but require 2 stroke oil mix every time you filled up.

    As a suggestion, look at some of the other traveler post on this forum and http://motorbicycling.com to see what others have done.

    I think with a smaller engine, you'd do O.K. since you only want to go 10 - 15 mph. Set your cadence and have the engine do the rest. A right handed friction shifter makes a good cruise control.

    Good Luck,

    Chris
    AKA: BigBlue
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2012
  4. biker2013

    biker2013 New Member

    Thanks!!

    Wow thanks for that response chris!
    To answer your questions:

    As for the motor I am now considering the Honda gx35 with a friction drive setup.

    I plan on spending around $500 for the motor and putting it on my trek mountain bike.

    I plan on traveling cheap

    Anywhere from 60 to 100 miles a day

    Either a 1/2 or 1 gallon tank

    I plan on using front panniers and one rear one on the opposite side of the motor.
     
  5. BigBlue

    BigBlue Active Member

    I plan on using front panniers and one rear one on the opposite side of the motor.

    Kind of like Slackbiker3 did without the baskets: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?27286-Motorized-Tour-Bike-3. Interested in how you are going to mount the pannier to the opposite side of the engine. Are you going to cut up and have a steel rack brazed or TIG wleded to the friction drive housing? Or have a custom rack built? A simple U shape of 3/8" tubing with a couple cross tubes wouldn't be that difficult to make.

    My suggestion would be to make several extended trips before leaving across country to work out any problems. Just make sure you're not eating tires. Hate to see you stranded. Just do a search on tires that work good with friction drives. I think most touring tires would be too thin.

    My only concern would be the lack of fenders with a friction drive. You are definitely going to have some heavy downpours some where on your trip. I guess if you're creative, you could devise a fender system to reduce water spray from your tires - maybe cut a section of the fender for the friction drive roller? You'd have to definitely re-enforce the sides of the fenders. I'd use metal fenders rather than plastic. Just make sure you use blue Loctite on your screws and nuts, so nothing vibrates lose.

    Friction drives don't work as well in rain compared to chain drive systems. I guess you could sit out the heaviest of storms.

    Good Luck,

    Chris
    AKA: BigBlue
     
  6. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    If I were in your situation, I would use a pusher trailer with a honda or Suburu engine. Enlarge the trailer so it can carry fuel, camping equipment, food, spare clothes and spare tools.

    This setup would require very little maintenance and should last the entire trip. Oil changes every 150 hours using a 15w40 HDEO should prolong engine life in hot weather. Very simple concept.
     
  7. BigBlue

    BigBlue Active Member

    Last edited: Nov 27, 2012
  8. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    My long distance experience with the HS 142 isn't all that rosy. It's
    a decent enough engine short range, but they can get persnickety
    on a long haul. You might find yourself struggling with maintenance
    hassles regularly; I know I did. If I were to try going transcontinental,
    I think I'd go with a honda GX35, not as much power, but incredibly
    dependable. Mine has never let me down. The Gx50 has more power.
    but it doesn't lend itself readily to a friction setup without an adapter
    and you'd need to disable the governor. That entails a good bit of labor
    & cost.
    If you go 2stroke, it would behoove you to spend the money for a
    a good one, i.e. a Tanaka PF4000 40cc.
    The advantage to a GX35 on a fric-drive is that it's light, low
    maintenance, quiet, and one can easily lift off the roller and pedal
    at any time.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
  9. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    I'm trying to post some pics without much luck:
    Shown is my $15 huffy with a gx35 DIY belt drive.
    Don't laff, it's been super reliable. All I've had to
    do is replace the belt a couple times. In the pic
    with the trailer the engine's running, hidden under
    my stealth cowling. believe it or not the trlr.
    weighs less than a B.O.B. & even has a parking
    brake. I went to a larger sheave for more low
    end in the trlr. pic.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
  10. andrewflores17

    andrewflores17 New Member

    love the trailer and all the spares on it that gas tank is also quite clever looking .
     
  11. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Thx Andy,
    I have since built a second trailer that is lighter & more utilitarian.
    Though I really like a 3 spd. hub on a motored bike, the GX35 was not
    quite strong enough to suit me. Being old, fat, and 6'4" with a trailer,
    I've gone to a Tanaka Pf4000,(actually 4210). Though it has only 5
    more ccs than the GX35, it produces 70% more power. I've been thru
    a lot of engines, and I will say categorically this would be my best choice
    for long distance touring. It was first 2 stroke rated both EPA...& CARB
    approved. They have a 2 yr commercial and 7 yr private use warranty.
    They're pricy, but well worth it. THe GX35 is a great little engine; I love
    mine for around town. It's a tabby cat; the Tanaka is a lynx. Here's some
    pics of the current setup. The trailer doubles as a hand cart and, with
    the tub removed it'll haul a kayak.
    Oops! Didn't load the right 2nd pic, and can't seem to dump this'n. Anyway
    you can compare the new rig,(top) to the old.
    The new is friction instead of belt on a Raleigh technium mtn. bike. It
    has better brakes, (the main consideration) and a wider range of gears.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 4, 2013
  12. grinningremlin

    grinningremlin Active Member

    Cool! Where did you source your Tanaka?
     
  13. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Grem,
    I found my PF4000 on Ebay, new-in-box for $249 free shpg,...But I spent
    more than a year looking. Staton has 'em on sale now for $349+ s&h. That's
    probly as cheap as you'll find one, but search around. I thought I saw some
    southern outfit that had 'em for $329.
    One thing I forgot to mention earlier, if you plan a tour of more than 1000 mi.
    on aluminum rims, you're almost certain to experience rim failure. All it takes
    is one pothole hidden in what looks like a shallow puddle. I don't know from
    carbon, can't afford it, but you might want to consider stainless rims.
    12 gauge spokes aren't a bad idea either.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013
  14. grinningremlin

    grinningremlin Active Member

    Appreciated there rawly, I was just dreaming.I'm working a pf4000 as well, but spare engines are always coveted.Doubt I could do 1000 miles on a diamond frame, my wrists can't take it.I have two heavy gauge rims, but have never needed them, the stocker Araya is working great, but I go to great lengths to make sure of that (lattice work zip-ties that pull the drive side spokes, and gorilla gluing the sheave in place), not even a loose spoke and I have about 800 miles on that rim with GEBE.Be careful on your jaunt.
     
    Roadwarrior likes this.
  15. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Grem,
    Wanna hear something truly outrageous. Okay,the pf4000 is 2.2 hp, and mine
    is pretty strong and fast. Consider a 65cc Tanaka at 4.3,(nearly double the power).
    I had concerns that it didn't have a clutch, but have found out it does. Russo
    Power Equipment has a 65cc Tanaka tbl 7800 leaf blower on sale for $429. Wish
    I had the dough, no more pedaling the steep stuff. This thing would build one
    scary-@$$ bike!!
     
  16. siouxindian

    siouxindian Member

    these are words of wisdom!
     
  17. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    :antlers::Give my Regards to the 'Southern' Cheyenne, Sioux. WE got a nicer rez,
    but no oil, just an outhouse of a casino. On second thought, not that
    nice or I'd still live there.
    Oh, and,Grem, I'm too old not to be careful. I don't have that many bones left
    that I haven't broken. If I do have an accident, I hope it's a clean kill. The
    last one was a real nuisance.

    "What doesn't kill you may make you stronger, but it can be mighty annoying."
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013
  18. grinningremlin

    grinningremlin Active Member

    WoW!Get a 20 tooth gear, adjust the strap, and have a GEBE that will go highway speeds.Or we could dub it "the spoke breaker".
     
  19. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    You'd need a metal sheave like the rim from 24" whl like
    I'm running and 12 gauge spokes. That and a really good
    HMO.
     
  20. fredie

    fredie Member

    any more news here ?
     
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