run in a 50cc huashing engine?

Discussion in '4-Stroke Engines' started by joshua97, Jan 2, 2014.

  1. joshua97

    joshua97 Member

    hey guys, just wondering ummm how do i exactly run in the huasheng 50cc engine, i have owned three and for all of them i have just "taken it easy" for the first 100 or so K's then changed oil and thats it.... i have a suspicion I'm doing it all wrong however the motor are still going strong any K's later. I thought maybe the run should be more like the 2 strokes? cheers

  2. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

  3. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    What I do with new 4-strokes is fill the crank case to the bottom of the threads with cheapest detergent 30W oil I can find, start it up and let it idle with an occasional 1/2 throttle twist for several minutes.

    Then ride it around my test area here which is mostly residential 25MPH, a nice little 'hump' hill and big hill up the mountain, and some stretches to open it up to 50+ MPH if it will do it.

    4 or 5 circuits (~1/2 gallon) then drain the initial oil while it is warm and fill it with the same stuff and instruct the customer to change the oil after 2 gallons of gas is run with good quality synthetic oil and just change it once a year or so and you're good.

    The MAJOR ISSUE with 4-stroke kits on an MB is what a frigg'n hassle it is to dink with the oil at all.

    Just some HS 142F 4-stroke engines on a flat level bike platform tips:

    1. Ignore the useless dip stick, fill the oil up until it gets to the threaded barrel just under the bottom thread.

    2. Forget the oil drain plug or laying the thing down to drain oil, or some funky funnel thing that doesn't allow you to look into the fill hole for oil level as you fill it.

    I have found a big plastic syringe with an 8" or so gas line on the end allows me to do a complete oil change with no mess in about 5 minutes.


    Just suck the old oil out and put it another oil container to use as chain oil.


    Then stick it in your new oil container and suck it full and fill the engine back up to the bottom of the cap threads.

    The type of syringe or line is not important so long as they will connect together, the important thing is you take gravity out of the process to make it much faster, cleaner and easier to do which is why I include that with new 4-stroke builds.
  4. joshua97

    joshua97 Member

    cheers KC vale and HeadSmess and thanks I'm surprised my motors r still alive now haha, yea u told me about the syringing before i have been doing it and its great man :) i do it on the mower too :) and 50 mph if it will do? how fast r u guys eating flat out mine only pulles 45kph flat out at it's 7,200 rpm redline. tho i use the ****ty china gearbox and a 44t rear sprocket :) thanks
  5. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Naw, you won't see 80 KPH on a direct drive 49cc unless you are going down a steep hill but 48 KPH is typical.

    Put a JS with a 3-speed however and you can hit 60 KPH.
  6. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    This topic is right up there as to which oil is best, you'll get 5000 different opinions and none are wrong. Anyways the only thing I never do to a new motor is WOT it for any length of time. Always have had good luck just driving them normally not worrying about revs or speed.
  7. joshua97

    joshua97 Member

    ok awesome :) and sweet web side KCvale :)
  8. joshua97

    joshua97 Member

  9. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Thanks, I have an unfair advantage when it comes to web sites, I have my own stand alone dedicated web server and have been building advanced database driven web sites for 15 years so it wasn't too tough to make my own Motorized Bike site myself and it doesn't cost me a penny other than my yearly $11 domain name registration payment ;-}
  10. joshua97

    joshua97 Member

    ahh ok wow fair enough :) and sweet bikes btw
  11. Stoltzee

    Stoltzee Member

    I've been wondering about engine break in for a while. Here's a theory I've pondered, but don't assume I know what I'm talking about, because I'm not an expert, and most of my science is eyeballing something, or guess work.

    Metal parts that move inside an engine will have spots that need to be smoothed from movement.
    "This eliminates friction areas."

    Regular oil will create "Carbon" from the heat of the friction hardening the metal, but in excess will create more friction.

    I ran 30W for 10 hours. Started out easy, and when it seemed safe I ran it up to full throttle, and then rode the bike normally. Slowing down , speeding up. The weather here at the time was quite warm out, maybe the 90s. Then I switched to synthetic oil.

    Maybe 10 hours is too much for these high rev engines, or not enough.
  12. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    "metal parts inside the engine that move have highspots"

    oil is used to create a film of fluid, that in any standard bearing in normal service, will not break down! there is NO metal to metal contact, except for when a; something has gone wrong or b; initial startup, or C; its a home made engine with pretty sloppy tolerances.

    all "bearing" surfaces are ground to high accuracy, even cheap junk motors get this process. everything is coated with a superthin layer of oil.

    "heat of friction" is nowhere near the 900 degrees C required for any steel to pass through the transitional stage, or the "curie" temperature, and definitely nowhere near the point that oil will break down and "crack" into its basic components. tempering is usually down in the 300 degree mark, which is simply wont get harder, ever... low temper temperatures retain hardness whilst remaining inflexible (cold chisels) whilst high temper temperatures result in loss of hardness with an increase in ductility or, springs. this is in steel only, mind you. aluminium and other types of alloys play silly buggers and the whole area of metallurgy is pretty complex.

    nothing touches, being separated by the oil film. anything requiring hardening and subsequent tempering(which also ALWAYS requires grinding to a finish size) has already been hardened and tempered correctly. even in a lousy dusty sweatshop... except for the one part that cant be hardened! the cylinder bore!

    only one part requires break in... the RINGS. (ok, technically 2, 3 or maybe more parts...ring one, cylinder, and ring two, some have three, some have oil scrapers as well, etc...)

    the rings need to conform to the cylinder wall precisely to achieve a "perfect" seal.

    they dont "spring" into the bore, they are FORCED into the cylinder wall via combustion pressure.

    the cylinder is "honed" to give the surface an ...abrasive... texture. cast iron is preferred as it work hardens (completely different to quench hardening) and contains near 5% carbon in the form of graphite...a lubricant. you need the rings to be forced into this "sandpaper" surface to achieve the final "lap to size", resulting in a perfect seal.

    so.... with all this in mind...start the engine...DO NOT REV IT! let it idle as slowly as possible, until warm.

    then just give it full throttle! hold the brakes on even! do this for a few minutes. find the steepest hill possible... and ride UP it, obviously.

    let it idle again, for a few minutes, in case airflow isnt enough to keep it cool. then back on with the full throttle... the sign your doing it right is blue smoke! (that will vanish shortly)

    then...after less than half an hour of this abuse.. change the oil. for plain mineral oil. do the whole procedure again if you really want to...

    use synthetic after a few hours ONLY.

    after all this, the former "himalaya" suface of the cylinder(under the scope) sort of resembles arizona/nevada (sorry, im not american and my geography sux) a bit more... instead of sharp peaks, its now valley with flat topped hills in between...the flat tops take the moving parts, the valleys hold oil for lubrication...

    they do the exact same thing in ALL engine factories with QC. start em, let em warm up, give them full throttle! part break in, part destructive testing. how else would you know your mercedes kompressor is going to handle it when you plant it as you come out the showroom in awesome 4 wheel drift? germans get upset if you say something they made was not up to spec...

    industrial type engines may skip this process, as someone has decided it is cheaper to do the occasional warranty rather than pay some one to test those thousands of engines made every day... at approx five minutes per engine, we would still be getting ready for WWII!!

    thats how i see it, how ive always done it, and while some people may say "but the manual says..." they havent tried the experiment themselves! its really hard to be abusive when you just forked out half your years wage or more on a new bike car or similar... but that ten or twenty minutes of abuse saves you from needing to fork out even more money shortly down the track... my 650 has now done 150,000, which blows the minds of anyone at a dealership that works on the same bikes. (30,000, maybe even 40,000...but youve clocked yours over? WTF they say!) valve clearances were in spec when i checked them finally at 100,000, and as for smoke...there is none. i regularly wind it out to the rev limiter btw, and have since i bought it new... i blame 2nd gear and its absence on operator error ;)

    in regards to the lf142 from huasheng... everything applies still, let it warm up, be nasty for a short time,change oil, then be nice to it. have more issues with the starters, the carb, and people dropping them than any "break in" related issue... oh, and over revving will blow the rod...
  13. ez dave

    ez dave New Member

    the syringe idea is great, i havent changed mine yet but i already was thinking mity vac for the drain then i use gear oil tip to refill. i was wondering though is it ok to have the motor cocked slightly forward, this certainly helps make maintenance a little easier.
  14. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    No problem having your back wheel on a brick or something to suck the old oil out, just make sure your hose is long enough to reach the front of the crankcase an use the natural curve of the hose point it down.
    For filling however you want it level and just fill it until the oil lever hit the lowest thread for the cap.
  15. Stoltzee

    Stoltzee Member

    Thanks for the advice!