Russian engines

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by srdavo, Nov 26, 2006.

  1. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    Grubee's selling the last of the Russian engines on ebay. I bought 2 of these a couple years ago. they were built in the 1980's. 45cc... very nice casting. I mounted 1 on a 60's era firestone bike. (the other one is still in the box) the cool thing about the engine is the steel sleeve in the jug. not the chrome on aluminum cylinder wall our chinese babies have. Also, the ignition coil mounts & has to ground to the frame & it has points & a condenser. mine has turned out to be pretty reliable & very quiet.) now...the down side....top speed.....maybe 20 mph.... not a hill climber, great for putting around, here in the flat lands. I'd like some feedback on the russian if anyone has some, like how to boost the power just a bit?

    [​IMG]

    note this was built in true Russian fashion....I used my best, used tires...& the line for paint was longer than the line for bread so I opted for just bread....and I didn't have to wait at all for Vodka.
    later, Dave
     

  2. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    i like the look, too, kind of an old bsa-looking jug & head.

    20mph is a major downside tho...
     
  3. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    yeah no kidding. early 80' I had a 1966 650 bsa on a hardtail frame with a 10 over springer. was nothing slow about it!!! leaked oil fast too.....talk about vibration....I got skinned from head to toe on that thing. didn't hurt till the next day....had jack daniels riding w/me.....hahaha
     
  4. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    woohoo, in the navy i got around on a yamaha 500, the dohc one, pretty quick machine, i had 10-over straight tubes, i don't think the front tire ever touched pavement except when i parked it.

    went from that to a kawi 500 3-cyl, then another one, then a trident for a short while, then a new kz-900, my last motorcycle was my k1000p in fla 2 years ago, guess i had a death-wish...guess i still do 'cuz now i'm doing 40mph on a freakin' bicycle fer chr**sakes :twisted:

    the new place i'm moving into has a welder i can use after i fix it, think i'm gonna put a rake on "sabrina-II" to get that wobble outta the ride.
     
  5. Heath

    Heath Guest

    you guys are speaking my language! not to hijack the thread, but i had a '63 triumph tiger engine on a rigid frame with a VERY long girder front end. spool front wheel (no front brake) and the old drum brake in the rear. did you say death wish? i had a 9' x9' yard barn to park it in and i had put it in there corner to corner. that engine made it's way to a stock rake front frame with a bolt on hardtail rear and i rode it like that for a few years until i blew it up. i have a bunch of BSA parts i'm colecting to build myself another hardtail bober out of. also have a norton featherbed frame and some bits for my next cafe bike. okay, i'm sorry. i just got a bit excited when i read you're guys posts about british bikes. back to your regularly scheduled posts about the russian engines (which i am curious about as well).
     
  6. I just put a bike together with the M-21 and am still breaking it in but it did come with a big sprocket I think they are 48 tooth. I put mine together using a 36 tooth sprocket and am getting better then 20 right now and have not revved it up yet. It does not have the guts of the chinese engine but starts very easily and is super quiet. Since I have 24 gears on the bike climbing hills works fine if you give it a little help. Try a smaller sprocket I think it might help.
     
  7. vax

    vax Guest

    Cheapest method would be expansion chamber. My friend did this one for his engine:
    [​IMG]
    I have the dimensions somewhere, but it's the "straight tube" version. There's a good software called Plate'n'Sheet for bending pipes and calculating sections of it.
    You can also use Dremel tool to grind exhaust port a little wider. It's possible to add extra scavenging port(s) to the empty cylinder wall at the backside.
    There's a special racing piston for that engine developed by GOL. www.emot.nl sells those for 43EUR.
    The carburator of original engine is pretty much crap. Some Walbro floatless (trimmer engine) carb is way better.
     
  8. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    so my little russian beauties can handle some upgrades! a better carb, exhaust and more compression with a racing piston. what rpm could I hope for? Currently (I'm guessing) 4500 rpms is all I get. putt....putt....putt
     
  9. vax

    vax Guest

    4500 is way too low. I think you could go as far as you like. 7500rpm is easy to get, just use a little bit bigger rear sprocket and give a little better "breathing" to the engine (carb and some porting).
    My reedvalved engine makes around 12000rpm nicely.
     
  10. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    Bump

    Just wanted to bump this up so Hammer could answer some questions for me.... when did they stop production of the "D" engines?

    I'd also like to know more about the overheating problems?
    I like the old style contact points & condensor
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2007
  11. Hammer

    Hammer Guest

    First about rpm. Check carbon deposits on cylinder and exaust pipe (there are turbines in 'egg', they should rotate easy, this pipe not best for power, but have lowest noise) and correct ignition timing (3.1-2.8mm before piston up), try to run it without air filter - it may be clogged. Normal 5500-6000 rpm.

    When engine run on max rpm adjust carb (2 turns of lower bolt). Engine must work clean on max rpm.

    Change standart bearings with "closed" from both sides of crankcase with plastic covers insted of standart sealing rings. Its to prevent negative air flow.

    Best gasoline "old" 76-92, gasoline with highter octan number will reduce power and increase overheating.

    Overheating become when cylinder temperature is highter 170C. Engine may just suddenly stop. Do not let it be cold afer this, turn it several times and then wait 10 minutes. Otherwise you will may shift piston only by hammer :) But even after this situation engine will work fine :) Once i've ride with this engine with broken piston ring about 30 km on max rpm (about 7500) with tuned cylinder + wrong gazoline = detonation and for this reason overheating was occured about 5 times...

    I'm not remember, but production was stopped about 10 years ago. Now plant producing gas waterpumps with this engines without clutch.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2007
  12. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    I don't understand about the turbine in the egg. I have a 1 piece exhaust pipe that does not open?

    also.... what is the correct points gap?

    do they overheat if you just run then the stock 5500rpm?
    I am happy with the way my "D" runs....it starts every time! & it makes my trike run 20mph. I like to go a little faster, on 2 wheels!
     

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  13. Hammer

    Hammer Guest

    Sorry, i third that you have classic D pipe (we call it "egg"), like this: http://www.dyr4ik.ru/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=2586

    About your pipe i have no information.

    0,3-0,4 mm.

    Yes! But your trike will no have overheat, i think, in cause of low speed. It's too big for 1h.p. D-engine to run on full rpm. Overheat usually when you run over 30 mph for 4-6 miles without stop.
     
  14. that last bike looked like it was watercooled - is that right?
     
  15. Hammer

    Hammer Guest

    Yes, its watercooled engine. Work fine without pump, just because hot water going up, but cooled water going down.
     
  16. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    thanks to vax & hammer for all your great info.

    My Russian Spaceliner
     

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  17. Hammer

    Hammer Guest

    srdavo, cool front fork!!! Can you post some pics of it???
     
  18. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    Attached Files:

  19. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    Overheating!!!!!!

    I think I have overheated this Russian engine 3 times!!!
    each time, after a gentle warm up, it has happened at almost 1 mile down the road (3/4 throttle). the engine just dies....& the clutch slips as I grind to a stop. the first 2 times, I quickly pulled the sparkplug & pedaled like madman to get it turning over again, then allowed to cool. The 3rd time...tuesday...no wrenches...what was I thinking? I pedaled & popped the clutch 3 times...the 1st two times it just slipped the clutch....the 3rd time it fired up, & I putt-putted it home. Seems to run just fine. I have not pulled the head/jug to check for damage.
    I am running 20:1, fuel:eek:il ratio.

    Any Ideas to help this thing run cooler? My other Russian, on the trike, hasn't done this yet. And I'm squeezing 25 mph out of it!!
     

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  20. Hammer

    Hammer Guest

    Check and remove carbon deposits in head and on exhaust of cylinder and piston Another way is to bore additional channels in cylinder and piston. It will increase engine power and will help to make piston cooler.

    I'll find photoes of this tune and post it here.
     
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