Safe, Easy, Practical, Friction Budget Bike Advice for N00bs...

[j0nnyfive]

Hello everybody! I'm new here. I think what you guys (and gals) are doing is
awesome. I'm ready to build myself one of those MB THINGs(tm)!

Now, I've been lurking on here for quite a while, reading, pondering, taking notes, trying to figure out what I want, and I have a few questions for anyone willing to lend a fella a helping hand. I think this thread might also answer some questions for some other noobs like myself, so here goes.

My goal is this: Budget, Safe, Cost-effective commuter bike... on a budget. AKA: Boring. lol


My situation is this: I own a car. I want to minimize my time driving it.
I would rather ride the bike, however I do not want to ride in bad weather.
I'm not a mechanic/handyman kind of guy. I can assemble things and change
flats and oil. (computer programmer kind of guy.) I'm not knocking chain and belt drives, its just that I've chosen friction drive for my own OCD reasons. lol


My angle is this: I could buy a scooter... or I could build an MB, THING. I would rather build an MB thing because it's cheaper, gets better gas mileage, and they look cool, unique, fun to ride, and fun to make.

HOWEVER... after searching and reading, I still have some questions. Here they are:


1. Which current friction drive kit do you guys think will LAST the longest in
terms of wear, tear, repair, and mileage? Which is most cost effective, and easiest to maintain? Which seems the most practical in terms of changing rollers?

2. Frames. Steel, or aluminum in terms of safety, longevity, and mileage?
How does each differ with vibration? Steel cheaper? Is steel limited to
cruisers? (I'm leaning towards the cruiser bike anyway.)


3. Brakes. What are the relatively safest type with cost, longevity,
practicality, and friction drives in mind?

4. Suspension. Is it necessary? Does it make the bike any safer? Does the
bike last longer? What about if you do not plan on taking the bike
off-roading? Is this mainly for comfort? For a rear friction drive,
what suspension would you suggest, if any at all? (I would rather not
have to have it if it isn't necessary.) How does it affect vibration?


5. Cruiser vs Mountain Bike (or any other style). In terms of longevity,
safety, comfort, cost, maintenance, and general practicality... what
are the pros and cons of each (for simple, boring, conservative, commutes?)
I'm leaning toward cruiser because the handlebars look more relaxed and I
can sit upright. Also, I'm leaning towards either a 3-speed bike or single
gear bike. I'm not crazy about having tons of gears. I like simple!


6. Wheels. Big or small? 26" seems popular. Anybody like bigger or smaller
for any reason? What might those reasons be? Does it affect friction drive in any way? Comfort? Safety? What about width? Also, do you suggest steel rims with 12g spokes on back AND FRONT?

7. Buying the bike. What specific bikes would you guys suggest? Bikes that
I can just order, buy at a LBS or whatnot? Is it cost-effective to have
a bike shop build me what I need? (I'm looking at spending under $300 for
the bike, if possible. I would prefer under $200! That would be great.)

My imagination thus far has lead me to a steel-framed cruiser with no suspension, steel-rimmed wheels, 3 gears (unless this isn't cost-effective or practical), hand brakes for front and back wheels, and... that's about it.

ANY sagely wisdom from you experienced gents (and ladies) would be very much appreciated. Like I said, I've been reading and taking notes, but much of the advice I've stumbed across so far seems to be aimed at a different market than I. I'm not wanting to be the perpetual tinkerer always adding and changing.. I want low cost, safe, comfortable, efficient, and practical. Boring.

Thanks guys!

P.S. I'm sure that with more reading, I could probably answer all these questions myself, but I thought it would be nice and convenient for someone else to find a thread that answers the question of building a nice "BORING" and cheap bike! Thanks.

 

[bluegoatwoods]

welcome aboard.

I can't actually answer your questions because I'm a chain-drive type.

But I would mention, though, that I'd recommend re-thinking your determination not to ride in bad weather. That'll cut your possible riding in half, at least.

 

[Porkchop]

I have a friction drive kit from bikemotorparts.com. Im, using a Harbor Freight 50cc 2 cycle engine. Built it back in April. I've been pleased with the drive kit and the engine. Caution, friction drives are not good at all when the tire gets wet. Shoudn't be an issue since you say you're not going to ride in bad weather. Frame type or material shouldn't be an issue with a friction drive. Mainly personal preference as to what type of frame you use. But there might be some fitting issues on some bikes that have rear suspension, especially aggressive mountain bikes. Hope this helps.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

1. http://www.bikemotorparts.com/parts.html

2 & 3. Any frame with front and rear brakes

4.A front suspension fork is one of the best options for a safe and enjoyable ride. It will make YOU! last longer.

5.Either style, but minimum 7-speed. I need gears to climb the ramp to my parking lot. Without gears, the friction drive and single speed cannot climb steep hills and ramps.

6.Any wheels with stainless steel 14gauge spokes. Good enough.

7. Buy a used bike or nearly new, just like cars. You can get a great bike for much less. I just bought a Diamondback bike with dual disc brakes and 28(?)speeds for $125.

8. How fast do you want to go will decide your engine and roller size.

Good luck

 

[j0nnyfive]

About chain drives...

Thanks all for the replies! Posting all that helped me to better organize my thoughts. And your answers are very insightful.


bluegoatwoods, If you can talk me into it, I'll go with chain-drive. I like things to be silly simple to maintain. I like simplicity of rollers. However, maybe I'm not seeing the big picture here. There definitely are more days of dry sunshine here than there are of rain or snow. But I can see the advantage of being able to drive through misty/slick roads.

I keep reading about people:
-breaking spokes (how does this happen? are they just too rough? too heavy?)
-hearing strange noises coming from their chain rig that they have to tweak out
-chain locking up the wheel (or something, I don't remember)
-chain rubbing against their tire and wearing it out (thus requiring special attention to their bike build)
-having to fabricate special brackets or whatnot to get the chain system to fit their bike properly. Will this be an issue with friction?
-having to fix their chain in some way... are these just off-roaders unlike me?

So... if you can tell me WHICH chain drive system will be easiest to install with trouble-free maintenance, I might reconsider... but so far, their advantages don't seem to add up for me. Like I said, I may be misunderstanding.

 

[j0nnyfive]

I have a friction drive kit from bikemotorparts.com. Im, using a Harbor Freight 50cc 2 cycle engine. Built it back in April. I've been pleased with the drive kit and the engine. Caution, friction drives are not good at all when the tire gets wet. Shoudn't be an issue since you say you're not going to ride in bad weather. Frame type or material shouldn't be an issue with a friction drive. Mainly personal preference as to what type of frame you use. But there might be some fitting issues on some bikes that have rear suspension, especially aggressive mountain bikes. Hope this helps.

Thanks Porkchop!

BMP is deff who I've been leaning toward.
I'm going to watch out for bad weather reports and avoid it. I would do this with a scooter or motorcycle anyway. I don't want to get wet coming home from work! lol

So, steel or aluminum doesn't matter? Is this BECAUSE of friction drive? I mean, would the frame material matter more with chain drive?

I don't plan on getting a bike with rear suspension. In fact, I'm leaning toward a cruiser with nice, lazy-styled handlebars.

 

[j0nnyfive]

1. http://www.bikemotorparts.com/parts.html

2 & 3. Any frame with front and rear brakes

4.A front suspension fork is one of the best options for a safe and enjoyable ride. It will make YOU! last longer.

5.Either style, but minimum 7-speed. I need gears to climb the ramp to my parking lot. Without gears, the friction drive and single speed cannot climb steep hills and ramps.

6.Any wheels with stainless steel 14gauge spokes. Good enough.

7. Buy a used bike or nearly new, just like cars. You can get a great bike for much less. I just bought a Diamondback bike with dual disc brakes and 28(?)speeds for $125.

8. How fast do you want to go will decide your engine and roller size.

Good luck

Awesome 5-7, thanks!

Now, I recall reading a post of yours saying you have a men's Raleigh 7-speed cruiser, and that it needed front suspension, so that's what you did. When you say safe, does that have to do with the front being less likely to get flats? Or the front being less likely to break? Or is this mainly a rider's comfort thing? Not sure I follow on the reasons for front suspension. What about suspension on my seat post? Do you have this? Necessary?
Okay I'll shut up on that. lol

I do plan on getting a 7-speed cruiser now. I see what you mean!

Wheels with 14g spokes... what about all this talk about double wall aluminum? Is this just for heavy people? I weigh about 175. Are these chain-drivers? Off-roaders? Not sure why people are popping their spokes..
So... the rim can be regular aluminum but as long as the spokes are 14g that will be good? I don't really want to have to buy different wheels on the bike I will get. Sorry, I'm killing this dead horse already. I talk alot.


Does the type of gear system on the bike somehow affect the strength of the bike wheel? Or is this not really a big deal at all...

Sorry about rambling, but after all my reading I've seen so much seemingly conflicting information about this stuff. I know that the contradictions arise out of not seeing the whole picture (rider's habits, weight, type of drive, etc.)

But all of you guys' answers are helping me a lot! Thanks! I will be riding an MB Thing(tm) yet. :helmet:

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

The front suspension fork absorbs the pounding of everyday driving over bumps and potholes at all speeds. I believe that at riding speeds it might absorb enough to keep stable and prevent a fall.

Suspension seat is nice too. I have one on my cruiser, along with suspension fork. On "The Iron Dragon", my Giant mountain bike, I have its stock suspension fork and no suspension seat.

In all my riding I broke one spoke on my Giant bike with friction drive. When that happened I replaced all spokes with 14gauge SS spokes. The rims were stock double-walled, so good enough.

My cruiser "The Dragon Lady" has 12gauge spokes, so no problems there.

Friction drive is simple. Just keep tire adjustments proper. Rear tires don't last with friction drive, and that's part of the sacrifice.

How fast do you want to go?

A stock Mitsubishi engine with 1.25" roller is a great combination for cruising at 20-25mph.

A stock GP460 engine with 1.375" roller is great for cruising at 30-35mph.

 

[loquin]

My first bike was a cruiser. The difference between it and my trek navigator 'comfort' bike is night and day. The trek has suspension front fork and seatpost. My back doesn't hurt, and my arms don't get tired from a long ride on it.

Also (and, this is important!) BE SURE TO GET FRONT AND REAR BRAKES. Bikes with a motor are heaver than without, and you go faster. You absolutely NEED to be able to stop safely. Do NOT go with coaster brakes by themselves. Coaster brakes can be acceptable IF you have a solid front brake, but, not as your only means of stopping.

 

[Elmo]

steel wheels with rim brakes do not work very well and not at all when wet.
Elmo