5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Front Sprocket
Okay, will mike that.
Okay, will mike that.
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
The Saga Continues
My bike drive ring/chainring has 22teeth, checks okay, fits the bike chain well.
I removed the front chainrings, tightened the loose BB bearing, readjusted the Jump-Stop. I thought about replacing the 8-speed cassette. Instead, I installed another wheel temporarily, from my other bike. This one had a brand new cassette, and shifting was maybe just a little smoother. It was probably not the cause of throwing the chain off the front sprocket.
While pedalling with the tire off the ground, it seems like the bike chain and engine drive chain are VERY VERY close to each other. They MIGHT be contacting each other at speed. There is a 5/16" gap between the 22-tooth and 63-tooth(8mm)chainrings. Tomorrow, I'll increase the gap to 13/16", using longer bolts and coupler nuts as spacers.
I also loosened three tight chainlinks on the engine drive chain.
This small gap between chainrings MIGHT be the problem!
My bike drive ring/chainring has 22teeth, checks okay, fits the bike chain well.
I removed the front chainrings, tightened the loose BB bearing, readjusted the Jump-Stop. I thought about replacing the 8-speed cassette. Instead, I installed another wheel temporarily, from my other bike. This one had a brand new cassette, and shifting was maybe just a little smoother. It was probably not the cause of throwing the chain off the front sprocket.
While pedalling with the tire off the ground, it seems like the bike chain and engine drive chain are VERY VERY close to each other. They MIGHT be contacting each other at speed. There is a 5/16" gap between the 22-tooth and 63-tooth(8mm)chainrings. Tomorrow, I'll increase the gap to 13/16", using longer bolts and coupler nuts as spacers.
I also loosened three tight chainlinks on the engine drive chain.
This small gap between chainrings MIGHT be the problem!
Last edited by a moderator:
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Scooterguy gear ratios
While my bike is torn apart, I counted the teeth on all the sprockets to determine gear ratios betwen shifts. Also estimated are mph at 5500rpm and 10,000rpm.
The 63-tooth chainring/11-tooth gearbox sprocket = 5.727
Gearbox ratio = 5:1. This computes to 28.635:1, from engine to 63t chainring.
Bike front chainring = 22 teeth
First gear has 32t sprocket/ 22t X 28.635 = 41.65:1. 5500rpm - 10.2mph/10,000rpm - 18.6mph
Second gear has 26t/22t = 33.84:1. 5500rpm - 12.6mph/10,000rpm - 22.9mph
Third gear has 21t/22t = 27.33:1 5500rpm - 15.6mph/10,000rpm - 28.3mph
Fourth gear has 18t/22t = 23.43:1 5500rpm - 18.2mph/10,000rpm - 33mph
Fifth gear has 16t/22t = 20.83:1 5500rpm - 20.4mph/10,000rpm - 37.1mph
Sixth gear has 14t/22t = 18.22:1 5500rpm - 23.3mph/10,000rpm - 42.5mph
Seventh gear has 12t/22t = 15.62:1 5500rpm - 27.2mph/10,000rpm - 49.5mph
Eighth gear has 11t/22t = 14.32:1 5500rpm - 29.7mph/10,000rpm - 54mph
I'm realizing that 1st gear is an EXTREME granny gear. This one does not need to be used, except on very steep hills. Even second gear is rather stiff.
Maybe I'll just use 2-4-6-7-8 gears on the flats.
I also calculated ratios using a 20-tooth drive sprocket and 14-tooth drive sprocket. Gearing with the 20t cog was almost useless. Only first, second and third gears were usable. Ratios with 14t were better, but unusable in 7th and 8th gear. For my application, 11t was the best drive sprocket.
While my bike is torn apart, I counted the teeth on all the sprockets to determine gear ratios betwen shifts. Also estimated are mph at 5500rpm and 10,000rpm.
The 63-tooth chainring/11-tooth gearbox sprocket = 5.727
Gearbox ratio = 5:1. This computes to 28.635:1, from engine to 63t chainring.
Bike front chainring = 22 teeth
First gear has 32t sprocket/ 22t X 28.635 = 41.65:1. 5500rpm - 10.2mph/10,000rpm - 18.6mph
Second gear has 26t/22t = 33.84:1. 5500rpm - 12.6mph/10,000rpm - 22.9mph
Third gear has 21t/22t = 27.33:1 5500rpm - 15.6mph/10,000rpm - 28.3mph
Fourth gear has 18t/22t = 23.43:1 5500rpm - 18.2mph/10,000rpm - 33mph
Fifth gear has 16t/22t = 20.83:1 5500rpm - 20.4mph/10,000rpm - 37.1mph
Sixth gear has 14t/22t = 18.22:1 5500rpm - 23.3mph/10,000rpm - 42.5mph
Seventh gear has 12t/22t = 15.62:1 5500rpm - 27.2mph/10,000rpm - 49.5mph
Eighth gear has 11t/22t = 14.32:1 5500rpm - 29.7mph/10,000rpm - 54mph
I'm realizing that 1st gear is an EXTREME granny gear. This one does not need to be used, except on very steep hills. Even second gear is rather stiff.
Maybe I'll just use 2-4-6-7-8 gears on the flats.
I also calculated ratios using a 20-tooth drive sprocket and 14-tooth drive sprocket. Gearing with the 20t cog was almost useless. Only first, second and third gears were usable. Ratios with 14t were better, but unusable in 7th and 8th gear. For my application, 11t was the best drive sprocket.
Last edited by a moderator:
TREEWK
Member
5-7
My Diy Shifter Build, Simulare To Yours Works Great For Me. Have A 7 Speed Rear Cassette With The 34 Tooth Starting Sprocket.
I Can Only Go To 5th Gear, Chains Rub Each Other In 6th. 6th Is Very Low On Power, Needs A Little Down Grade. I Also Need To Add A Washer Or Two Between The Chain Rings. 6th Gear Would Be Nice Occasionally.
After Riding The Shifter Bike, It Would Be Considerably Less Fun With A Single Speed Mab. The Torque Of The Titan 4 Stroke Thru The Gears Is Quite Amazing. Mounted My Motor As Far Forward As Possable. Don`t Even Notice It When Riding. Ron
My Diy Shifter Build, Simulare To Yours Works Great For Me. Have A 7 Speed Rear Cassette With The 34 Tooth Starting Sprocket.
I Can Only Go To 5th Gear, Chains Rub Each Other In 6th. 6th Is Very Low On Power, Needs A Little Down Grade. I Also Need To Add A Washer Or Two Between The Chain Rings. 6th Gear Would Be Nice Occasionally.
After Riding The Shifter Bike, It Would Be Considerably Less Fun With A Single Speed Mab. The Torque Of The Titan 4 Stroke Thru The Gears Is Quite Amazing. Mounted My Motor As Far Forward As Possable. Don`t Even Notice It When Riding. Ron
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5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Hi Ron,
Thanks for your comments. I noticed that your engine sits high and far away from you. Mine is almost in my lap, LOL.
I have short legs, so my bike frame is medium-sized. Maybe I need a larger frame.
What size frame do you have, and what brand is that dual-suspension bike?
I noticed that your engine plate is flat. Are there any chain adjustments at the plate?
Thanks for the pics, Ron. I get a LOT of info from your comments and photos.
Myron
Thanks for your comments. I noticed that your engine sits high and far away from you. Mine is almost in my lap, LOL.
I have short legs, so my bike frame is medium-sized. Maybe I need a larger frame.
What size frame do you have, and what brand is that dual-suspension bike?
I noticed that your engine plate is flat. Are there any chain adjustments at the plate?
Thanks for the pics, Ron. I get a LOT of info from your comments and photos.
Myron
TREEWK
Member
5-7
Dax Has Two Different 10 Tooth Bmx Sprockets For The 5:1 Gear Box. The Flat $5. Flat Model That Was Not Hardened Went Bad For My Good Friend Nuttsy. I Bought 5 Of Them, Never Used Any But Sent One To Fair Racing And He Had Good Luck With It.
I Have The Dax 10 Tooth $10. Model With The Hub Machined Into It. Have Been Running It Without Much Oil Since Last Oct. Just Checked It Now, Show`s No Wear. It Only Go`s On The Splined Output Shaft With The Teeth Outward.
Which Is Fine, Less Spacing. The 12 Tooth Bmx Sprocket Nuttsy Is Using Is A Nice Sprocket. I Needed The 10 Tooth For Gear Ratio.
5-7 The Bike Is A Huffy Radine? I thought it was Racine, will look again, motor mount covers some. Bought It On Craigs List For $20. At That Time I Had Not Plans For It, It Turned Out To Be A Lucky Choice. I Bought Another Simular Frame Bike With Front Disc Brake For $50., Over 100 Mile Round Trip.
Your Frame Has Oval Shaped Tubes, The Front V Space Is Good To Move Eng Forward, But Round Clamps Will Not Work. I Bought Some 2" Long X 5/8" Od And 1/4" Hole Alluminum Tubes To Weld Into Frame Like Your`s. They Could Be Welded Into Frame With The Low Temp Alum Alloys. That Way The Frame Would Not Be Weakened. Before Welding Them In They Could Be Adjusted To Align Up Sprockets With Minimum Spacer Washers. The Mounting Plate Holes Could Be Slotted A Bit For Chain Adjustment. With A Spring Tensioner Also.
I Went To The Clamp Mounts As I Did Not Want To Drill The Frame As Scooter Guy Did In His First Builds. I Had To Adjust For Chain Stretch At First, By Loosing The Clamps And Tapping The Mount Ahead. The Bottom Mount Hole Is Slotted Because The Tube Runs At An Angle.
Plan On A Spring Tensioner And A Thin Plate For A Chain Guard Someday!!lol. Tomorrow Never Comes!! Have Not Had To Adjust The Motor Chain Since Last Fall.
You Will Notice Extra 1 1/8" Hole For The Gear Box. Had To Redrill To Move Motor Forward. Now I Could Build A Very Neat Mount Plate With That Pattern. But It Runs Soooo Nice!!
Ron . PS I need to resize pic`s and edit them in. hope i am answering al question`s.
Dax Has Two Different 10 Tooth Bmx Sprockets For The 5:1 Gear Box. The Flat $5. Flat Model That Was Not Hardened Went Bad For My Good Friend Nuttsy. I Bought 5 Of Them, Never Used Any But Sent One To Fair Racing And He Had Good Luck With It.
I Have The Dax 10 Tooth $10. Model With The Hub Machined Into It. Have Been Running It Without Much Oil Since Last Oct. Just Checked It Now, Show`s No Wear. It Only Go`s On The Splined Output Shaft With The Teeth Outward.
Which Is Fine, Less Spacing. The 12 Tooth Bmx Sprocket Nuttsy Is Using Is A Nice Sprocket. I Needed The 10 Tooth For Gear Ratio.
5-7 The Bike Is A Huffy Radine? I thought it was Racine, will look again, motor mount covers some. Bought It On Craigs List For $20. At That Time I Had Not Plans For It, It Turned Out To Be A Lucky Choice. I Bought Another Simular Frame Bike With Front Disc Brake For $50., Over 100 Mile Round Trip.
Your Frame Has Oval Shaped Tubes, The Front V Space Is Good To Move Eng Forward, But Round Clamps Will Not Work. I Bought Some 2" Long X 5/8" Od And 1/4" Hole Alluminum Tubes To Weld Into Frame Like Your`s. They Could Be Welded Into Frame With The Low Temp Alum Alloys. That Way The Frame Would Not Be Weakened. Before Welding Them In They Could Be Adjusted To Align Up Sprockets With Minimum Spacer Washers. The Mounting Plate Holes Could Be Slotted A Bit For Chain Adjustment. With A Spring Tensioner Also.
I Went To The Clamp Mounts As I Did Not Want To Drill The Frame As Scooter Guy Did In His First Builds. I Had To Adjust For Chain Stretch At First, By Loosing The Clamps And Tapping The Mount Ahead. The Bottom Mount Hole Is Slotted Because The Tube Runs At An Angle.
Plan On A Spring Tensioner And A Thin Plate For A Chain Guard Someday!!lol. Tomorrow Never Comes!! Have Not Had To Adjust The Motor Chain Since Last Fall.
You Will Notice Extra 1 1/8" Hole For The Gear Box. Had To Redrill To Move Motor Forward. Now I Could Build A Very Neat Mount Plate With That Pattern. But It Runs Soooo Nice!!
Ron . PS I need to resize pic`s and edit them in. hope i am answering al question`s.
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Hawaii_Ed
Member
Good call on increading the gap on the sprockets. I have mine pretty wide too, spaced out with nuts and washers. That might be the problem for sure
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Thanks for dropping by and adjusting my derailleur, Ed.
I WAS gonna increase the gap between chainrings another 1/2", so I bought longer bolts and coupler nuts for spacers. There wasn't enough space between bike chainring and the downtube. Maybe I'll get an extra 1/4".
This looks to be the problem. The testride should prove/disprove it soon.
I WAS gonna increase the gap between chainrings another 1/2", so I bought longer bolts and coupler nuts for spacers. There wasn't enough space between bike chainring and the downtube. Maybe I'll get an extra 1/4".
This looks to be the problem. The testride should prove/disprove it soon.
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Chain Clearance!
Using longer bolts and extra nuts for spacers, the gap between chainrings widened from 5/16" to 3/4", an increase of 7/16".
The distance between bike chain and engine drive chain in 8th gear increased from 1/32" to 11/32", an increase of 5/16". The distance between chains in First gear is now 17/32".
Waiting for daylight to test my ride.
Using longer bolts and extra nuts for spacers, the gap between chainrings widened from 5/16" to 3/4", an increase of 7/16".
The distance between bike chain and engine drive chain in 8th gear increased from 1/32" to 11/32", an increase of 5/16". The distance between chains in First gear is now 17/32".
Waiting for daylight to test my ride.
Hawaii_Ed
Member
I bet you got it
