Local time
8:23 AM
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Messages
392
Location
near west side Chicago
Okay here's the deal, fat intake air leak 6 set with copper gasket sealer works great. Still takes about 10 minutes to warm up before the idle wants to go down on its own, HOWEVER, If I tap kill switch a couple times it brings the idle down. " Is that the G-Spot?" Sorry wrong form. (Dear Penthouse.) LOL SORRY COULDN'T RESIST. Anyway, Once I get going it's like my engine has a governor on it and it doesn't want to open up all the way and just take off it doesn't want to give me full action? Now I've gone over everything that I possibly could that I know to do. I Even took the head off and send it down with very very fine sandpaper on a piece of glass and cleaned off the head the Pistons so it shines like a diamond and a pig's ass. I have a 30 tooth sprocket on the rear wheel. . I know that all 6 might work and my low end but I should get going once I get up to higher speeds and not understanding what I am missing? Could it be a spark plug issue could it be my CDI could it be That I modified my spark plug wire? Find modifying my spark plug wire I mean that I removed the original wire that came out of the CDI and got a good wire from an automotive store regular spark plug wire for a car, Crimped and soldered a small piece of copper wire on there. Unscrew The Old s**tty plug wire by unscrewing it and then screwed this one end and it's been working fine. However I can't help but think it's something electrical when I tap the kill switch it brings the idle down? Just a little rapid tap tap top top.tap tippity top tappy tap topple...... and no apologies for typos or misspelled words that's just the way it goes thank you for your help in advance, and as always have fun and be safe.!!!
 
I've inspected it,dry as a bone in the sun. I'd think of that had a leak when sitting in garage it would leak a LITTLE fluid? Spraying Gumout ain't gonna tell s**t? Will it? I DUNNO? YOUR advice sir?
 
mix dishwashing soap with water, remove spark plug, spray onto seal, then turn engine over many times while watching for air bubbles
 
I respect you & your knowledge, however I'm not gonna do that. I'm not risking "ANY" Chance f getting soapy water in my engine. There are other liquids I'm sure. Like #BLASTER CITRUS BASED DEGREASER.
 
Jag's test is valid, done it often. You spray it on the crank seal, not into the plug hole.
He removed the plug to make it easy to kick over.

I make plugs up for the intake and exhaust and hand pump up to no more than 7PSI.
I have a low pressure gauge to see if it holds pressure. Do this test all the time on motorbikes and snowmobiles.
Make steel plates for over the intake and exhaust, drill one for a schrader valve (tire stem) and tap the other for a gauge.

Here is pretty much the exact setup I use on my KTM and Yamaha 2 strokes:
Everything.JPG


Steve
 
the soapy water method is older than your grandfather. it works well. if bubbles come out then you have a bad seal.
 
Respect MON! RESPECT! "In regae voice" I have these rubber plugs for stopping leaks for old plumbing jobs. You turn Da screw and dey expand. All shapes & sizes I could rig somting up like dat Mon! Great job! Tank JAH I KNOW YOOOOO....... (I fade off with steel drums playing on day beach Mon),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
engines with piston port intake experience both pressure and vacuum in the crankcase area.
engines with reed valves experience mostly pressure and very little vacuum.
so the stock engine places more demand on the crank seals.
 
Back
Top