Since I must 1st introduce myself...

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by crowvise, Jun 4, 2010.

  1. crowvise

    crowvise Member

    ... before I can do anything else.
    Let me start by saying I had been planning on buying an engine kit for 3 years but having limited resources didn't get one until a week ago. It was missing at least 3 bolts(but came w/an extra nut:001_9898:). I was told I need to take a picture to prove I wasn't making it up. I don't own a computer or digi-camera. Quite a few other problems w/ the company. Anyway, I liked the site and not being a mechainc thought I could get some help here. Going to print out the chinese pre-installation guide today. I can only access the site at the library.
    I purchased a black flying horse 66cc from bikeberry.com. Plan on installing it on a Ross - Beach Commander, beach cruiser. But may end up putting it on a Bianchi - Timber Wolf.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2010

  2. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Welcome to this place!
    Sorry to hear that you received an incomplete kit.
    If bikeberry will not stand behind the kit, at least the hardware you did not get is cheap to buy at a hardware store.
    It will be sad if you have to get it that way though....
    Good luck with it!
     
  3. Molotov256

    Molotov256 Member

    Quality control on these engine kits aren't always on par with what we're accustomed to expecting as Americans. That doesn't mean the engine kits are **** - they're a steal for what we pay for them - but just go into your MB project with the expectation you may need to hit a local hardware store to replace some pieces.

    In my experience, the OEM bolts (motor mount studs, exhaust mount studs, and carb mount studs especially) aren't made of a particularly high grade material. Another member here suggested I go to a hardware store and replace them with grade 8.8 metric bolts/studs, and that's proven to be VERY good advice, IMHO.

    If at all possible, I'd say save yourself some heartache and replace the missing bolts yourself rather than try and wring the proverbial neck of an online vendor which imports motor kits from China.

    Good luck, and welcome!
     
  4. crowvise

    crowvise Member

    Thx for the welcome.
    I made a printoutof the prebuild checklist. Another of a 34point checklist. And was looking yesterday @ the site. Now I feel need to get a micrometer and measure all the hardware and replace it all w/Uncle Samatha Arms components. There was not any type of component parts list so every peice has to be measured, threads per cm counted, etc.
    Worst of all a included motor mount adaptor plate that is stated as being included in the kit is not. I was told to read their disclamer.
    I'm trying to find a thread in reference to that mount or another that would attach the flying horse 66cc to my beach cruiser.
    I fear I may risk a tounge lashing tomorrow by posting my mount question.
     
  5. crowvise

    crowvise Member

    Thx for the welcome.
    I made a printoutof the prebuild checklist. Another of a 34point checklist. And was looking yesterday @ the site. Now I feel need to get a micrometer and measure all the hardware and replace it all w/Uncle Samatha Arms components. There was not any type of component parts list so every peice has to be measured, threads per cm counted, etc.
    Worst of all a included motor mount adaptor plate that is stated as being included in the kit is not. I was told to read their disclamer.
    I'm trying to find a thread in reference to that mount or another that would attach the flying horse 66cc to my beach cruiser.
    I fear I may risk a tongue lashing tomorrow by posting my mount question.
     
  6. professor

    professor Active Member

    Nobody here wil lash you. A lot of guys started the exact same way!
    My 2 cents- whatever bike you put it on need a brake on each wheel.
    Stopping is a lot more important that going.
    And Welcome to Motoredbikes!
     
  7. PatrickW

    PatrickW Staff Member

    Motor Kits...

    You have it right...so many people are concerned about "Going", and not so much about "Stopping!" I always replace all of the bolts, nuts and washers with Stainless Steel #8, due to the rust conditions from the salt air..., anyway, there are usually a few too many, or a few too short in the package...it's just the way it works, and it's not gonna run you broke! What are you out?...Maybe a buck or two to replace them all?...How cheap can ya get?

    Change them out, make sure they are good and solid, and enjoy!

    Have fun, Patrick.
     
  8. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Well-Known Member

    Welcome to the forum. Fortunately, most broken or missing parts can be found at a harware or lawncare equipment store for not too much money.
    The motor should mount to the Ross cruiser without any problems, unless it has a fat (over 1 1/2" dia) downtube. You can mount to a fat tube using the appropriate sized muffler clamp. There are many posts on this site showing how to use the muffler clamp on fat tubed bikes.
    Send us your problems as they come up. There will always be somebody on the site that has cheaply solved that problem.
    I know its a big hassle now, but you will have a lot of fun on your motorized cruiser once you have the installation done and can just ride and do the routine maintenance.
     
  9. crowvise

    crowvise Member

    I can't believe what **** this engine is made of.
    A friend of mine, who is a motorcycle mechanic, said if it ain't broke don't fix it. Well, it's broke now. (but not beyond repair).
    2 days ago,I bought a new torque wrench from Advance auto parts; set it to 12lbs/ft(the recommended torque from bikeberry.com); and snap, crackle, pop.
    So, chinese torque wrench vs. chinese bolt. Whatever. I don't really know where the wrench was manufactured.
    Went to home depo yesterday. No, metric rods. Plenty of "english" ****. Maybe if I had brought a few pounds and shillings w/me things would have been different. Yes, I see it clearly...
    ..."Oh, govenor. Of course we have the global measurements in stock. But you know only those who show proper respect to our "outdated" ways may have access to it. Tally ho."
    I guess if the food and women are so fine and the culture enchanting, something had to give.
    Going to Advance to see if they have the threaded rods in stock.
     
  10. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    I am glad that the threads did not pull out of the cases! That was my first thought when I read "Well, it's broke now."
    The cases are made out of a recycled bubblegum and soda pop can alloy. It is very easy to bugger the threads in them.
    I found metric threaded rod at True Value Hardware, in little 4" sections. They do not sell it in decent lengths. I think next time I will go to Fastenall.
    Good luck with you repairs. The biggest reason for such low torque on all of the fasteners is to prevent damaging the threads in the cases. They love to come out and say "Hi, are ya glad to see me!".
     
  11. PatrickW

    PatrickW Staff Member

    The Nuts and Bolts of the Problem...

    As I posted to you before...whenever I get a kit from almost anyone, I just change out the bolts, and ny-lock nuts, and washers where needed with #8 stainless steel due to the rust and corrosion problem...compaired to the cost of the total set up (Bike, Motor, etc.)...those few items of hardware are a drop in the bucket if I want a 'first class build'...so, why not just treat yourself to the best from the get-go, and build something you can be proud of?
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2010
  12. crowvise

    crowvise Member

    Well, After searching ****ed near everywhere(home depo; lowes; advance auto parts; napa; small engine repair shops;) to find 8M*1.0 threaded rods I found one at fastenall(one meter long). They said it would be a week before it arrived. Cost=$36.00. Then the clerk told me about a place in town called 'Allthread'. Allthread had one for $17.00(one meter long). Said it would take only 2-3 days. It is a 4.4 or 4.6 which I am told is a grade 5. I wanted Grade 8 but was told that it would cost $70.00 or $76.00.
    So, on w/the Grade5.
    Than ****ed torque wrench must be faulty because I am uncapable of mistakes:rolleyes7:. I know I applied more torque than before to these new rods. not only could I feel it, but two of my american steel replacement lockwashers were pinched so tightly that they are now oval. Yet no tale-tell click on the wrench. I would guesstimate I applied 15-20 ft/lbs.
    I'd update more often but I have no computer. I do browse through my cell but it (phone) will not allow me to log into this site (or my e-mail).
    At library now. Gotta check out a book on bike repair to prep before motor install.
     
  13. crowvise

    crowvise Member

    Actually there is an adaptor plate and LARGE U bolt included for fat frames(which I do not have). But thanks for trying. The one missing(rather, no longer included w/ the kit - but still being marketed as if it is) would have made it possible to compensate for the curve. Library closing. gotta go
     
  14. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Where there is a will there is a way!
    I a surprised that Fastenall wants that much $ for a piece of allthread. They are my next to go to place when I need any hardware and True Value does not have it.
    I have given up on Home Depot and Lowes. What little they did have in the past they seem to be discontinuing now. The "hard to find" parts drawers are being eliminated. :(
    The cheapest torque wrench I will trust is Sears Craftsman. They are the clicker type where you twist the handle to get the setting you need. (I hate the beam- dial type) Always remember to reset the selector to 1/2 turn backwards from zero to avoid permently bending the mechanism inside it while you store it in your tool box. If you do not do this, they will loose calibration very quickly.
    At least the library is air conditioned!
     
Loading...