Clutch Skyhawk GT5 wont disengage when clutch lever pulled

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by ChainsawBikeNoob, Dec 30, 2010.

  1. ChainsawBikeNoob

    ChainsawBikeNoob New Member

    I'm pretty sure I have the clutch cable hooked up to the clutch arm correctly but when I pull in the clutch lever the engine is not disengaged from the back wheel. I can't peddle to start the engine so any help with the clutch arm would be greatly appreciated.
     

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  2. pineiroadrian

    pineiroadrian New Member

    Hmmm looks like the metal arm is too far out? If the clutch is disengaged can you move that metal Arm back? Does it have a lot of play? If not
    Then check the pin that actually pushes the clutch. Might be worn
     
  3. ChainsawBikeNoob

    ChainsawBikeNoob New Member

    the clutch will never disengage and its brand new
     
  4. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

  5. ChainsawBikeNoob

    ChainsawBikeNoob New Member

    That last thread was helpful. I think that is the same problem I have but I wasn't able to get the ball bearing loose. I even tried to force pedal to see if that would help get things working smoothly but it was impossible, i just broke my chain. In the middle of the accompanying picture is something i'm not sure what it is, but i was wondering if it might be important to disengaging the clutch. I've heard something about a ball-mount but i never knew what that was. thanks for any help, i'd really like to be able to disengage the engine so I can finally start my bike.
     

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  6. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    The item in the middle of the picture is where the cable is supposed to go. It guides the cable to the arm and supplies tension. Take the cable off of the arm, run it through the top of the barrel, put the small spring on then run it through the lever. Leave about 1/8 inch play and tighten the holding nut.


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    Last edited: Dec 31, 2010
  7. olkoot

    olkoot New Member

    Hey Chainsaw, I've had the same problem a few times with new kits. I think your clutch disc is stuck to your pressure plate. Try taking the clutch cover off the right side of the motor to expose the pressure plate. Then pull and lock the clutch lever in the disengaged position. Use the handle of a screwdriver and tap the pressure plate. It should release. If not you may have to loosen the clover nut in the middle of the pressure plate a few turns then do some more tapping. The little button shaped clutch discs behind the pressure plate are sticking to the pressure plate. Good luck
     
  8. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    It will never release with his cable routed that way.
     
  9. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    I can tell you right now that the clutch arm is too far out just by looking at the pics.
    you need to adjust your cable big time. you should have a tiny amount of movement in that clutch arm with the clutch engaged (handle released).
    if you have the clutch handle released, and you can move the clutch arm real easy, it is too far out.

    and, both springs need to go on the cable between the clutch arm and the mounting post that the cable runs through. you have the small spring in the right place, but the large spring is supposed to go over the small spring.
     
  10. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    the large spring goes over the cable housing to protect the housing from the heat of the engine.
     
  11. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    006.jpg
     
  12. ChainsawBikeNoob

    ChainsawBikeNoob New Member

    Thanks everyone for your help. I think olkoot is right about the clutch disc sticking because i'm not able to disengage it manually by just moving the clutch arm. Hopefully I can get it unstuck from the pressure plate. Is the clover nut the same thing as the butterfly screw? And Stan4d, if I route my cable the correct way, through the ballmount, will i be able to release the clutch disc by tapping the pressure plate? thanks again
     
  13. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    i have the large spring over the small spring on both of my engines, and i do not have any problem with engine heat affecting the clutch cable housing.
    if you route the clutch cable so that it isn't touching the cylinder, heat will not be a problem. you have to have an air gap between the cable and the cylinder.
    if you let the cable rest against the cylinder, heat will melt the cable housing.
    i can see how that bigger spring would help with that problem, but eventually don't you think that the spring will transfer engine heat to the cable housing and melt it? but really, even if the housing gets melted, the cable will still be fine because it has a steel sleve inside the housing.
    there is no movement of the cable on the outside so i don't see how that spring would protect it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2011
  14. olkoot

    olkoot New Member

    Hey Chainsaw, The clover nut, that's what I call it, is inside the right cover of the motor. It's right in the middle of the pressure plate. It doesn't look like a nut. It looks kind of like a four leaf clover and sits flush with the plate with a small set screw in between two of the "clover" ears. After the set screw is removed the clover nut screws in and out to adjust your clutch as the clutch discs wear down. In a new motor you probably won't have to adjust the clover nut. I always count the turns off and back on when removing the clover nut as to not be too far out of adjustment. All that being said, stop! The other guys are right about proper routing of the cable thru the ball mount and proper tension on the cable itself. It takes a lot of force to push the clutch lever to the disengaged position. Enough pressure to hurt your thumb. Don't start taking stuff apart until your sure you're pushing the clutch arm in far enough. You should also check out aussiesteve's tech articles in the tech part of this forum. He's a great tech writer and will address most issues with these kits.
     
  15. ChainsawBikeNoob

    ChainsawBikeNoob New Member

    Thanks olkoot, i'm certain that it's not a problem with the clutch cable or lever but a problem with the clutch arm not doing it's job. I'm not sure exactly what that job is. Is the clutch arm turning the cam which is in turn pushing that rod in?
     
  16. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    So, you changed the routing of your cable?
     
  17. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

  18. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Please do as Stan4d suggests before taking apart your clutch. He is correct in that you do not have the cable properly installed through the cable stay that is just underneath the carburetor, threaded into the top of the engine case.
    There is nooooooo way that your clutch will work what-so-ever if you do not first have the cable installed properly.

    Install the long cable springs as you wish. They have no consequence on the clutch operating or not.
    If you really want to know what they do, the larger diameter spring goes over the cable right near the cylinder to act as a heat should of sorts to protect the black outer cable sheathing. The smaller diameter spring goes over the inner cable wire, between the cable stay and the release arm sticking out of the sprocket cover. It is supposed to act as an anti-rattle spring.
    Just look at the photos shared by members here who do have a properly routed and working clutch.
    If you do not believe them, just read the kit instructions.
    Here's a link to them if you need it. Read Step#4.
    http://www.bicycle-engines.com/2-stroke-kit-installation.php
     
  19. ChainsawBikeNoob

    ChainsawBikeNoob New Member

    Success! I have the clutch cable routed correctly and when I pull the clutch lever the engine disengages. But it couldn't be that simple, my rear sprocket was off a bit and I threw my chain. So I think I've fixed that and I've readjusted the tensioner. I've heard some suggestions and now I think I'm going to peddle around a bit with it disengaged to help get things working, cross my fingers and then pop the clutch
     
  20. ChainsawBikeNoob

    ChainsawBikeNoob New Member

    Success doesn't last long. Everything is installed correctly, the clutch lever disengages the engine allowing me to peddle up to speed. But when I drop the clutch I'm able to peddle twice and then nothing. The engine doesn't start. This is a brand new engine and I've heard of them sticking and generally being hard to start right out of the box, so I'm gonna keep trying since now my sprocket is true and I wont throw my chain. Any suggestions would be appreciated, you all have helped immensely so far.
     
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