slipping belt

Go to a Mom and Pop hardware store, they have a drawer of springs.

Buy 2 or 3 different tensions on one of those #18's. Cost about a quarter.

Pick the best type.

Unwind about 2 inches from each end, wrap through the hole under the tension knob, and then around a strap hole. It is a backup for the tension spring, which compensates if you screwed around with the factory torque on that damn nut.

Here's a collage, before the spring idea dawned on me. Before I found out cheap batteries won't run a camera very long.

21_collage_11.jpg



I'm catching up, guys, the phone hangs up three times in every 20 minutes out here in Rough Edge.

BTW- Sheave is BOGUS. :? The orderform spells it SPOKE RING. Any more sheaveshooting is prosecutorial. :cool:

Centered on 12 gauge spokes, no need for superglue, add the spring and it will make up for screwing up the SPOKE RING snap on. :cool:
 
Torques, I had a similar symptom with my GEBE 40 tanaka. Have you checked the spring? Mine broke and I replaced it with a slightly stronger one from the hardware store.Maybe this will help.
 
Torques, the metallic sound you mention... sounds like it may not necessarily be metallic but may be the sound associated with the teeth of the belt slipping on the spoke ring. Is it a sharp sound or a softer, muted sound and can you feel it as well? My belt is currently doing this too. Mine is attributed to my wheel being slightly out of round and at top speed I get the wawawawa effect. I'm currently running a rhyno-lite with 14 guage spokes, one of which was broken and since replaced but am considering going to 12 guage and a professional shop to do it. I suspect that this out of round condition is what is causing yours and my belt slippage. Nothing wrong with the product, we just need some righteous maintenance.
 
Try This

I had the same problem....you can hear the belt "click" from time to time, letting you know it's slipping. Do you have a quick release axle on the back? If so, your mounting strap will ride too low on the quick release, and cause the belt to be too long. Even though your tensioner is still engaged, and riding the belt, it is at the wrong angle to effectively keep the belt tight. Loosen your axle, and raise the mount strap up so that the bottom of the strap rides even with the bottom of the axle nut on BOTH sides. Also there is the posibility that you may have torqued down the hinge on the tensioner arm, preventing it from swinging freely. Loosen the self locking nut on the tensioner arm a half turn, and try it then. Add a drop of oil to that hinge as well.
 
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The .39 cent fix

GEBE says the tension arm is "correct" when shipped, and I try my best to avoid adjusting that tension.

If you've done everything "right", and this is proven when you take the first ride and the tension arm "barely" bounces, the belt is centered on the drive gear, no rubbing on the tire or frame.

But still there is a "click" at certain speeds. The "click" arises from the spoke ring, changing from trail to highway gear doesn't solve the click.

Here's the solution I found, #18 springs- 2 inches long, giving a second "insurance" tension to the arm. WORKS EVERY TIME !!

Same as the "insurance" zip tie from top of the strap down to the fender bar.

When 50 Red Chinese touched the bike, plus all the workers down the line on the engines, mounts, shipping, there is NO perfection, and sometimes a small add on like a spring fixes everything.

Besides, the only way to see how the rear end is spinning and bouncing and springing is to follow on a second bike, riding at 30 mph, and who can really do that?

Another thing, the belt takes about 1/4 mile to "warm up" sometimes, belt noise disappears after it has flexed a few hundred yards up the block.

btw: I drug up one of those old WallyWorld Avalons, gonna use to do the frame mounting that seems to be catching fire on the forum.

It has an aggravating kickstand attached to the axle, frame mounting fixes that too. Okay for a demo-ride bike, but I don't trust em for selling to the public.
 

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My experience is this... after I ride a couple of miles the belt warms up and I don't hear the clicking of the belt or feel the belt slipping. When it does slip, I reach behind me and apply tension to the belt and it stops. The spring I replaced isn't strong enough to keep proper tension but that's an easy fix. I also have to be patient and allow the bike to warm before wot. Will check out those 2" #18's though...
 
GEBE says the tension arm is "correct" when shipped, and I try my best to avoid adjusting that tension.

If you've done everything "right", and this is proven when you take the first ride and the tension arm "barely" bounces, the belt is centered on the drive gear, no rubbing on the tire or frame.

But still there is a "click" at certain speeds. The "click" arises from the spoke ring, changing from trail to highway gear doesn't solve the click.

Here's the solution I found, #18 springs- 2 inches long, giving a second "insurance" tension to the arm. WORKS EVERY TIME !!

Same as the "insurance" zip tie from top of the strap down to the fender bar.

When 50 Red Chinese touched the bike, plus all the workers down the line on the engines, mounts, shipping, there is NO perfection, and sometimes a small add on like a spring fixes everything.

Besides, the only way to see how the rear end is spinning and bouncing and springing is to follow on a second bike, riding at 30 mph, and who can really do that?

Another thing, the belt takes about 1/4 mile to "warm up" sometimes, belt noise disappears after it has flexed a few hundred yards up the block.

btw: I drug up one of those old WallyWorld Avalons, gonna use to do the frame mounting that seems to be catching fire on the forum.

It has an aggravating kickstand attached to the axle, frame mounting fixes that too. Okay for a demo-ride bike, but I don't trust em for selling to the public.

Thanks for the excellent help.
 
My experience is this... after I ride a couple of miles the belt warms up and I don't hear the clicking of the belt or feel the belt slipping. When it does slip, I reach behind me and apply tension to the belt and it stops. The spring I replaced isn't strong enough to keep proper tension but that's an easy fix. I also have to be patient and allow the bike to warm before wot. Will check out those 2" #18's though...

I have adjusted, during many rides, the tension of the spring. It shouldn't be too loose or too stiff. If it is too loose, the clicking is worse. If the tension is too tight, I believe there may be a greatly increased friction or pressure issue possibly resulting in worse gas milage and increased wear. Sometimes, I do seem to "just about get the tension right" but it seems I have to baby it, not too much throttle at slower speeds or it will click. I have a 13 gear on my prototype and will shortly convert to a 12 tooth one.
 
belt slip

Don't forget to at least try increasing the distance between your rear wheel axle, and the drive gear/pulley on the transmission. Again, if your motor sits 1/4 inch too low, it will put the tensioner at an awkward angle, (too much slack in the belt), and the belt has more leverage than the spring. This causes adjustments in tension by the tensior arm/spring to be sluggish, and a slippage can occur momentarily until the arm "catches up". Worked great for me just to raise my engine off the axle maybe 1/4 inch. I would also advise against excessive tension by heavier springs, due to the constant "pull" on the rear wheel drivering. I've noticed mine slide slightly on the spokes when engaging the tensioner. Not a good thing. I would almost think that it is the main function of the tensioner, to compensate a little for "off center" driverings, which occur when the drivering is wearing in, and it becomes a little loose on the spokes. Only speculating of course!!
 
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