Some questions for a newcomer

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for a 2-stroke you will pull in your clutch to a lock position (handle provides this) and pedal and release the clutch (open) when you want the motor"

Just to clarify this. You pedal and release the clutch and this starts the motor. The motor stays on until you stop it with either the choke or kill switch (if working). It is possible to set the idle so low that when you come to a stop or pull in the clutch it will stop the motor. To restart the motor, you will need to pedal again and then release the clutch. Hope that helps. Concerning the legality, no comment I don't want to tell you the wrong thing but if some anal cop or courts or some official demands proof then you have one with a receipt. There is no way someone unfamiliar with 2-strokes will be able to tell the difference between a 49cc and 66cc.
is it possible to actuate the choke/kill switch while rolling? :)
 
Yes. I guess you can buy another clutch lever and cable and then attach that to the choke level on the carb with a spring (~$20). Just have to keep it secure and aligned properly with the choke lever on the carb. Then place this choke lever somewhere on your bar with your other clutch and two brake levers (if you are not going cruiser). That is a lot of levers on your handle bar. You can then choke out or turn off the engine by pressing on your choke lever when your clutch is in or locked. It is possible and not too difficult to do.

Or you can just reach down and turn on the choke by the carb...
 
Thanks for the replies. Timbone would you elaborate on why the 2 stroke HT would not be good for touring. Though I am leaning towards 4 stroke.

As to the question of pedaling without the motor, and kicking it in only when needed, how practical is that? Seems like all the four strokes require pulling a starter cord?[/QUOTE

First, if you wanna be a cyclist, get a bicycle as they are made to be highly efficient. The HT engine can definitely be pedaled, but it's not efficient. If you put a motor on your bike, you are gonna want to use the motor. Even on perfectly flat ground, you can't pedal up to a good speed. Forget about climbing!

You will quickly learn that these are short range vehicles. Even if you work it into a relatively smooth ride, it's never gonna be real smooth. A bicycle carrying a lot of weight at 28 mph will bring out the roughness in the road. Then there's the noise. And there's the vibration into the hands and feet. A 15 mile trek is about as far as you will want to go. These are just it engineered for comfort!
 
Timbone, are you saying that a bike with a 2-stroke engine installed will be significantly harder to pedal even with the clutch disengaged?

Are there ways to reduce that vibration to comfortable levels?

Thanks
 
There is some resistance because even with the engine disengaged you still need to turn the chain and drive sprocket. It isn't that bad. And you mentioned that you wanted to get some exercise so it would definitely do that if you want to pedal. I had a 1KW ebike rear wheel kit and the 2-stroke and I would say the resistance is a bit more with the 2-stroke but not unmanageable especially if you are somewhat fit or want to be fit.

As for the vibrations there are but you mentioned that there is local motorized bike shop so after you build yours you can definitely have to them take a look over it and help improve the vibrations.
 
Timbone, are you saying that a bike with a 2-stroke engine installed will be significantly harder to pedal even with the clutch disengaged?

Are there ways to reduce that vibration to comfortable levels?

Thanks

First of all, if you go with a centrifugal clutch, then you eliminate the drive chain drive. With the two chain, one gear HT setup, the motor chain will be moving through whenever the rear wheel turns.

Motor chain drag through resistance depends on the particular motor. I can tell you that my current 69cc HT has very high resistance. I don't pedal any more than I need to! And any big climb, well, it's a mountain. Motorized bikes are heavy. The pedaling is good for things like cutting through a bike path or for working around traffic jams by rolling up the sidewalk. If you wanna be a cyclist, get a good bicycle!
 
First of all, if you go with a centrifugal clutch, then you eliminate the drive chain drive. With the two chain, one gear HT setup, the motor chain will be moving through whenever the rear wheel turns.

Motor chain drag through resistance depends on the particular motor. I can tell you that my current 69cc HT has very high resistance. I don't pedal any more than I need to! And any big climb, well, it's a mountain. Motorized bikes are heavy. The pedaling is good for things like cutting through a bike path or for working around traffic jams by rolling up the sidewalk. If you wanna be a cyclist, get a good bicycle!
Yeah...I was really hoping there was a good solution that worked out something like "ride it like a slightly heavier bike, and then get the assist up hills".

Is there a setup that's known to have low resistance when the motor is disengaged?
 
A direct drive type that could be pulled off the rear wheel would work. Or use a centrifugal clutch. But the standard two chain set up will always have some degree of drag.
 
A lot also depends on how much slack you have in your drive chain. I have about 1.5-2.5 inch of play which makes pedaling not impossible. I am also running a standard 2-stroke 66cc kit, not any high compression head or etc. Going on a flat road is manageable and I'm real out of shape.
 
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