SON OF A....... (broken mounts snapped bolts)

lsoult

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Feb 5, 2011
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CLEARFIELD!!! Pennsylvania
This morning started like any other. Jumped on the bike, started down my road. Wind in my hair, smile on my face. Revelling in the glory and satisfaction that I actually made my bike work. "Gas prices??? What gas prices????"

Thats when it happened; A loud snapping follow by a violent shaking. I looked down, and much to my dismay; It appeared that my vertical mounting studs have snapped off inside the motor and my mount had a big crack in it (pics attached). Luckily, I didnt get far. So I picked up my motor mount (and my pride) off the ground and proceded to push the bike back to the house. Took a couple pics and jumped in the car.

I was so pleased that my bike was operational. Now I'm just disheartend.

Any tips on how to fix this? I'm thinking 'easy out' tool. But I have a feeling I'll end up making it worse.
 

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your not alone

I had a similar thing happen to me last year. I was able to get the first set out but they failed again. I drilled and tapped another set but they broke with the rear flange of the motor. I since then bought a different rear mount from Sick Bike Part (I have way to big of a seat tube) and also got a kit of stronger hardware from the same guys. I also had to get a new engine(sigh)

No problem so far(knock on wood)

mike
 
New Engine???.... Stop trying to scare me... LOL.... I'd have to have it delivered to work and hide the old one from my wife (since I just got this one).

I'm going to try to make this one work. Although I'm a little discouraged I'm bot giving up. :) yet
 
Either easy out the studs, or rosette weld a nut to the face of them and turn them out with a wrench.
As for the mounting spacer cracking like that, how well does it fit to the seat post tube?
They tend to be too small for the frame tube. If the inside curve of it does not match up to the outside curve of the frame tube it will put a spreading strain against the mount and crack it. It is fairly easy to match up the inside curve of the mount by using sand paper and a piece of pipe. I used 3/4 inch sprinkler pipe and tightly wrapped it with newspaper to get the desired diameter before wrapping it with 150 grit sand paper. (take into account the thickness of the sand paper too) Use it like a file and check the fit often.
 
filing might be a problem

The problem i had with my first engine was that my seat tube was way to thick and what I did was to file my old mount till it fit. That lasted for about an hour until it broke so I made my own rear mount. The mount seemed to work well but I changed the position of the motor so I could get less slack in the chain(big mistake) with the engine moved forward an extra inch and a half it put too much strain on the block of the motor and it cracked.

I solved that problem by getting rid of the vertical drop outs and swapping them over with horizontal track type ends.I had to add a rear derailleur hanger on the pedal side so I could keep my eight speed freehub. Now if I want to tighten the chain I just move the wheel back a bit and the problem is solved. I did have to be very careful with the placement of the rear dropouts though because now I had to worry about were the brakes shoes hit on the rear rim.

mike

So far so good, and I have about ten hours on this particular set up.(according to my tack)

mike
 
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I had a very similar situation happen but I had the studs sheer off inside the block. After this and my attempt to fix it I would not recommend an ez out, bad idea and did not work very well at all. I took the engine off of my bike and brought it to a local welder and he welded the mounting spacer directly to the block and taped it. I now have a rock solid mount and larger studs holing it on. This has been done now for several months with about 150 to 175 miles on it and looking good. Also it only cost me 20 bucks to have it done and no more headache
 
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