Sprocket Alignment on Schwinn Cruiser (Typhoon)

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by dr_clabo, May 8, 2007.

  1. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    Hello -

    I am installing a Chinese 80cc on a Schwinn Cruiser (Old Typhoon Reissue Type)...

    The tank and engine are only mocked-up right now.

    Superficially, the front sprocket doesn't seem to line-up.
    Will this have to be removed? Shimmed? Reversed? Similar?

    I can see that unfortunately, the rear fender will have to come off too for chain clearance.
    Any ideas on that?

    One last note: There is a huge space between the "up" bar and the other frame bar when mocking-up the mount.
    I really wish to at least retain the original chain guard and not have to drill the frame - As it is a "small tube - Not a larger tube like the newer style bikes.

    Also, is the brake hub going to be a nightmare?

    I will try to load pics.

    Thanks in advance,
    ~DC~

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     

  2. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    well, lose the fender or trim it to clear the chain...taking a 1/2" x 4" chunk outta mine did the trick.

    when you actually get the engine mounted, the chain should be aligned enough, from what the pics show, anyway.

    someone who owns a coaster brake will have to help with that part, i saw some recent topics about that very thing.
     
  3. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    OK - fender will be an afterthought.

    The chain still looks as if there "might" be interference with the rear tire - I suppose time will tell.....

    About the engine mount.... That is quite a space to fill. The studs are not even long enough without going lower - That means losing the nice chain guard too.

    I will check back - I encourage as much feedback as possible from all the members.

    Even the crackpots - LOL - :smile:
    Some good ideas come from the least expected source.

    :p

    Thanks guys,
    ~DC~
     
  4. azbill

    azbill Active Member

  5. spunout

    spunout Member

    I can see that unfortunately, the rear fender will have to come off too for chain clearance.
    Any ideas on that?

    Oh man, dont take it off, it makes that bike. Just cut a small section out of it.
     
  6. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    forgot to mention the mount question, but azkronic is right, imo, in suggesting you fill in the front gap instead of repositioning the engine.

    in the "MBc Owner's Manual" you'll find a bit of good info about mounts, including more about this one:
    [​IMG]
    i'm guessing a clamp-on adapter would solve your "no drilling" dilemna.
     
  7. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    the rear fender will have to come off too for chain clearance.
    Any ideas on that?
    Oh man, dont take it off, it makes that bike. Just cut a small section out of it.


    I know - I know..... More work - More work !!! :smile:

    The first Schwinn I did was a 7 speed and went OK. A little long on labor as it was the first time.

    I can see the coaster brake thing is labor as will be the fender (which I most likely will have to break out the die grinder upon).

    More work - More work !!! :smile:


    Should turn a few heads - Brings back the "Whizzer Days" to older dudes and even the older hotrod guys.

    :razz:
     
  8. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    i'm an "older hotrod guy" and i can't wait to see finished pics in the gallery 8)
     
  9. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    in the "MBc Owner's Manual" you'll find a bit of good info about mounts, including more about this one:


    Whoa ! That is some serious space on the front mount !

    I really wish to avoid drilling the frame for more reasons than one.
    One reason is that it is the smaller tube frame.
    Structural integrity - Keeping as much original - Etc.

    Perhaps there is a kit or an extension kit on Fleebay by now. I will have to search that later.

    I will give this some serious thought before pressuring up the air compressor and breaking out every tool in the box.

    If I can keep the grinding, drilling and cutting to a minimum, that is the look I am going to attempt to achieve. Less is more in this case; even if it requires more labor, per se.

    The feedback from these threads are very inspiring I wish to most sincerely thank everyone that participates.

    And, most sincerely thanks to guys who post and run the site for us hobbyist.

    It is great appreciated.
     
  10. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Fender- cut out a small section, don't forget to de-burr and smooth it or it will start cracking.

    Coaster brake- no biggie, take your time and do a little bending and grinding, easy as pie....heh heh. :evil:

    As for the bottom or front mount issue- a guy nearby here with a bike shop sells these mounted on his bikes and ready to go. He uses the stock adapter, but instead of drilling the frame, he mounts the plate, then uses a heavy muffler hanger, ("U" shaped) which he drills, then clamps on the frame with HOSE CLAMPS! Says it works fine.
     
  11. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    Kronic's right about the engine mountiong blocks & longer studs. Rusty is the same style frame. I put an extra block on the rear mount & the front mount. Fits very well.
    IMHO, I'd do what I could to use both, the fenders & the chain guard. It's a beautiful bike!
    keep us posted on your progress.
     
  12. thatsdax

    thatsdax Guest

    look out !!!!

    That long bolt between the front motor mount and the bike needs to be filled with flat washers and then compressed against the bike or the front mount will break. To see how this is done, go to www.thatsdax.com and go to page 3 of install at the bottom of the page.. I hope this helps you....
     
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