Squish band

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Okay. Fine that seems to make some sense to me. but I have heard a lot of people say those retard units didn't help. I have not tried one myself. I might be curious enough myself to try it.

But this thread was not about your ignition unit, it was about the stuff you said about squish band combustion chambers not helping.

I have way too much testing results from myself, race experts, and other individuals to say otherwise.

I have seen how the stock cylinder heads performed terribly by causing poor performance and lots of damaged engine parts.

I can see how using an ignition retarding device would help remedy that problem.

But I don't think that is the best solution for the poor performance and hot running caused by the stock heads.

The best solution is to simply put a properly designed cylinder head on, one which incorporates a squish band.

My test bikes can do 50 MPH on 93 octane pump gas, and they are much more reliable than when I was using the stock cylinder heads without a squish band.

There is no way that a stock head and your ignition device could even come close to the level of performance achieved by simply using a properly designed cylinder head.

That is why I stated the ignition retard device was a compromise approach to the real problem of detonation with these engines.

I think your ignition device is worth a serious look at, as long as it is a reliable unit, but there is no way I can agree with you about the squish bands.
-Fred
 
Like you said, you designed your heads for high performance modified Grubee engines. cool, great, fantastic. I like that there are high performance parts for highly modified engines.
But the purpose of my web site is how to moderately modify these engines for a wide powerband for use on the street. The porting I recommend is for a peak of 7000 rpm. 5500 is stock.
90-100 psi is the stock compression which I recommend boosting to 130-140psi which is not enough to cause detonation.
So at 7000 rpm and 135psi there really is no need for a head with a squish band. Jennings backs me up on that. You sell your heads to people with near-stock engines and they report a power increase. Of course. They increased their compression. But if it is less than 150 psi the squish band is a fancy addition that isnt necessary. Like Jennings said, only high output engines with high compression need a squish band. (high output implies high rpm because with 2 strokes the higher the rpm the higher the peak power. And "high compression" refers to more than 140psi.)
The purpose of a squish band is to increase turbulence for a faster burn which is not needed at rpms of 5500 to 7000. Probably not even till 9000 rpm. It also limits the possibility of detonation with truly high compression.
Your target audience is the high performance folk. They need your product.
My target audience are people without a lot of money to spend who want a bit more power and/or speed from their rides so they wont have to pedal up hills or pedal much from a stop. For them the best option is just to use sandpaper to mill down their stock head 1mm to get around 135 psi compression.
 
No. The heads I make are excellent for people that just ride on the street. One of my cylinder heads is about the same price as one of your ignition units, and the increase in performance and reliability using one of my heads is substantial.

There would be far more benefit from one of those heads than from using one of your ignition retard units.

Plenty of people have told me so, and it makes absolute sense to me.

Well, if Jennings really said that, that is too bad. He is very mistaken then.

It's ironic because his writings had a lot of impact on my designs.

I believe detonation is happening a lot more often than you think.

I've had lightly modified engines suffer form damage due to detonation.

Putting on one of my heads with the same combustion chamber size as the stock head made the over-heating go away and performance increase.

That indicates to me that detonation was occurring.

Those Psi and RPM numbers are BS Jaguar. I don't believe it at all.

Those numbers do not match what I have experienced.

You are a BSer Jaguar, and to me, your credibility is low.

I really can't believe much of what you say because so much of what you have said is proven wrong.

Proven wrong by myself and many other people.

It will only get worse for you as long as you refuse to listen to real test results from people actually involved with the development of these engines.

There is no point in discussing this with you any further.

-Fred
 
Is the Jag unit hard to make work? I've heard people on forums spending a lot of time making repairs and such. Are they reliable?
-Fred

That's a great question.

I have purchased 5 Jaguar CDI's, for myself and other people who want the device but do not trust internet credit card transactions.

All of the four previously installed CDI's have worked with perfect reliability and the ignition curve alteration is a simple method of installing jumpers on the jumper pins.
Unfortunately my last Jaguar CDI had a fault: It will run properly for the first 3 or 4 seconds then develops a misfire which feels exactly like a bad spark plug.
I am able to do back to back tests with a second Jaguar CDI installed on my bike to verify that the black box is faulty.

The unfortunate part in this saga is that of warranty return.
I am located in Australia and when discussing the problem with JN Motors, they made mention that i will have to send the unit back to America, but " i " will have to cover the cost of shipping the unit back to America.

It's highly frustrating that the CDI cannot be manufactured in Australia under licence, and i can imagine that there are some highly annoyed people who live outside of America that may be in a situation which requires warranty work, and "they" have to cover the cost of return shipping to get their CDI fixed.

It's a bit like purchasing a German car in America and when it develops a fault, the owner is required to send the car back to Germany with the shipping cost coming directly out of the owners pocket.
 
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Okay, thanks Fabian.

I appreciate that you are a straight shooter. You tell things how you see it, as accurately as possible. That is how an individual earns credibility.

Well, my discussion/argument with Jaguar has led me to believe the man is not credible. And since he is such a BS'er, I just can't support him, even if the device has merit. His presence is like a foul odor and I don't want to have any part of it.

The way he just casts off my personal testing experience, and other experts which I regard highly as invalid just makes me sick!

It is because of this arrogance that I cannot support him.

I think everyone should think twice before they support him.

Any one who supports Jaguar is also supporting his egotistical arrogance.

-Fred
 
We are only one step away from this discussion becoming the plot of a Jerry Springer Show, and i love the Jerry Springer Show; especially the adults only version filled with participants eagerly awaiting their turn to hack away opponents clothing, with nothing more than their bare hands.

Some of us might be sitting back and settling in with a bag of popcorn and a side dish of savories.

It could get particularly interesting, especially when discarding all of the facts in favour of the correct ratio of emotive banter and character assassination.
 
Yeah, and I'm guilty of contributing to that. To the extent that I have done so, I apologize.

I believe that Jaguar fudges his numbers to serve his purposes, again affecting his credibility.

One of my customers may actually send me one of the Jaguar units for testing so they can see what I think about it.

I agreed to it.

Thanks for your input Fabian.

-Fred
 
I appreciate that you are a straight shooter. You tell things how you see it, as accurately as possible. That is how an individual earns credibility.


It's not that i have any credibility because if i did have credibility "Arrow Motorized Cycles" would sell me their motorized bicycle parts.
As i have learned, Arrow Motorized Cycles has placed a black ban on my attempts to purchase their components i.e. they refuse to sell me "any" of their listed parts.


What i can say in relation to the above discussion is easily condensible in a few words: If a tested product does not work, it would not be on my bike. I don't have an emotional connection to parts or systems - they either make a noticeable or usable difference or they do not, borne out of testing the items against a "dyno hill", which gives astonishing repeatability.
If the speed does not increase or the rpm cannot be reduced for the same vehicle speed (over a standard configuration) then the parts do not stay on my bike.

The Jaguar CDI is installed on my bike because it works; prolonging engine life and increasing power and torque over the standard CDI, whilst making the engine run in a less harsh manner.
The CR Machine Manufacturing 3 hole cylinder head is attached to my bike because it works; increasing midrange torque (over the standard cylinder head) and significantly reducing cylinder head temperature - the only reason why i use the 3 hole cylinder head is to reduce compression slightly by inserting a third spark plug - it's a very handy option to have when messing around with the compression ratio.
The Rock Solid Engines reed valve intake and Walbro style diaphragm carburettor is attached to my bike because it works; making tuning a breeze, together with boosting low and midrange torque, but with equal importance it noticeably reduces intake noise.
 
When it comes to the Jaguar CDI, i still think that it can be improved by using a box fitted with individual and externally adjustable trim pots (for the low and midrange and high side of the rpm curve) to make adjusting the ignition curve more user friendly by allowing the user to simply have more scope to play around with the ignition timing - emphasis on playing around, because men just like to play with things.

I understand the reason why jumpers are used (for increased reliability) but it would be a great feature to have three externally mounted rotary dials to adjust 3 separate parts of the ignition curve, granted that this will make the black box more expensive to produce, but i would be prepared to pay the extra cost.
 
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