S
Starrman15
Guest
Hmm...
Well, that nickle I save at speedway Might be the problem!
I'll give that a shot.
Thanks!
Well, that nickle I save at speedway Might be the problem!
I'll give that a shot.
Thanks!
bamabikeguy
Active Member
Dad had an Amoco for 10 years, people would drive 20 miles to get Amoco White (midgrade).
I've never used a JetPep or convenience store gas. I avoid Texaco, but in Kansas where the choices were limited, I had to.
btw: I just noticed Golden Eagle is in the ad part of the site, (never look at that side of the screen) When did THAT happen ??? (well, now I saw the sticky in Intro about Golden Eagle sponsoring---> what do they think? Inferior gas seems the most likely culprit here )
My vision is deteriorating !!! (serious, lost my best reading glasses and am using a pair with lens the size of a postage stamp, Dollar General induced "tunnel vision")
Good, now Vaughn can take care of you overweight venters and ranters, I'll help the happy GEBErs', who lose weight with minimum peddling !!
Joshin' ya, Starr, but I have a few 250 pounders on the 25cc Zenoah with Trail gear.
NO ETHANOL, no Generic gas, midlevel 89-91 octane until breakin period is over (150--200 miles), then lower your octane when things improve.
Make sure the pump says NO CORN !!!
I've never used a JetPep or convenience store gas. I avoid Texaco, but in Kansas where the choices were limited, I had to.
btw: I just noticed Golden Eagle is in the ad part of the site, (never look at that side of the screen) When did THAT happen ??? (well, now I saw the sticky in Intro about Golden Eagle sponsoring---> what do they think? Inferior gas seems the most likely culprit here )
My vision is deteriorating !!! (serious, lost my best reading glasses and am using a pair with lens the size of a postage stamp, Dollar General induced "tunnel vision")
Good, now Vaughn can take care of you overweight venters and ranters, I'll help the happy GEBErs', who lose weight with minimum peddling !!
Joshin' ya, Starr, but I have a few 250 pounders on the 25cc Zenoah with Trail gear.
NO ETHANOL, no Generic gas, midlevel 89-91 octane until breakin period is over (150--200 miles), then lower your octane when things improve.
Make sure the pump says NO CORN !!!
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Starrman15
Guest
Who is Vaughn??
I had an E reply a year ago from someone at GEBE that was VERY detailed.
It was not Dennis.
I might need to contact this person for some questons without incurring Julia's (IMO unwarranted & needless rant)
I have spent alot of money over there & intend to spend more.
But GEBE led me here to begin with.
With this forum/site that might not be necessary.
No offense takin' bamabikeguy!
Sure wish I knew how to upload a few pics.
I think I am slightly more "svelte" than my lbs. would indicate!
But that is why I went with GEBE.
I am an exercise nut & wanted something that could be completely disengaged & be a normal bicycle!
OK, no more cheap gas from now on.
Never knew there was a difference anyway but obviously a 1 cylinder engine can tell!
Well, speaking of that, I'm off in 94 degree heat on the GEBE to the gym!
Thanks again for all the info,
Starrman 15
BTW, I think I figured the "pic" thing out!
I had an E reply a year ago from someone at GEBE that was VERY detailed.
It was not Dennis.
I might need to contact this person for some questons without incurring Julia's (IMO unwarranted & needless rant)
I have spent alot of money over there & intend to spend more.
But GEBE led me here to begin with.
With this forum/site that might not be necessary.
No offense takin' bamabikeguy!
Sure wish I knew how to upload a few pics.
I think I am slightly more "svelte" than my lbs. would indicate!
But that is why I went with GEBE.
I am an exercise nut & wanted something that could be completely disengaged & be a normal bicycle!
OK, no more cheap gas from now on.
Never knew there was a difference anyway but obviously a 1 cylinder engine can tell!
Well, speaking of that, I'm off in 94 degree heat on the GEBE to the gym!
Thanks again for all the info,
Starrman 15
BTW, I think I figured the "pic" thing out!
Attachments
L
locoWelder
Guest
If its not Union 76 it dosen't go in my tank 
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smapadatha
Guest
Starrman, did you know that can turn the motor where the fuel tank is strait up and down?its not hard at all to do this.
Can this be done with the Robin/Subaru engines, or is it limited to the Tanaka models?
-Sam
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Starrman15
Guest
Fuel Tank on the Robin Subaru 35cc
I looked at the thing real hard today & that fuel tank ain't & was not meant to go anywhere but where it is mounted.
Tanaka & I am asumming the Red Max companies thought this issue through I guess because the tanks are or can be placed where they perform best.
Where the fuel tank was situated on the Robin was the last thing on my mind
when I put my first motorized bike together.
(Yes, I know...this is MY FAULT)
BUT I pose this thought/question out to all you GEBE vets.
Would it....COULD it be possible to fuel turn the tank AROUND 180 degrees & remount it so you fill it from the front instead of the back?
Would it line up the same?
I realize that you would need to replace the fuel line with a longer one.
That should be fairly easy.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Starrman 15
I looked at the thing real hard today & that fuel tank ain't & was not meant to go anywhere but where it is mounted.
Tanaka & I am asumming the Red Max companies thought this issue through I guess because the tanks are or can be placed where they perform best.
Where the fuel tank was situated on the Robin was the last thing on my mind
when I put my first motorized bike together.
(Yes, I know...this is MY FAULT)
BUT I pose this thought/question out to all you GEBE vets.
Would it....COULD it be possible to fuel turn the tank AROUND 180 degrees & remount it so you fill it from the front instead of the back?
Would it line up the same?
I realize that you would need to replace the fuel line with a longer one.
That should be fairly easy.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Starrman 15
S
Starrman15
Guest
Engine Idle
Well, I am going to be honest & describe my experience from earlier today.
The Robin quit on me twice & I was......upset!!
I have been dealing with this problem off & on since I started riding again
after the winter months.
And NO I didn't winterize it....my mistake but it ran just fine for about 5 weeks then it wouldn't start at all.
Thats when Dennis reccomended fuel Stabilizer & slowly but surely things got better.
But it does die on me every now & then.
Now it only quits & when it DOES quit is when I am sitting at an idle.
Never while accelerating.
So I thought "here we go again...better grab the ol' fuel stabil"
When it does this, the stabil is the only cure.
Then, a light bulb from my distant past of pushing lawnmowers came on
inexplicably.....maybe because I was so hot!
Anyway, I asked myself this question:
"Have you ever adjusted the engine idle since you purchased the engine?"
Answer, "NO!"
So I primed the thing, took the handy-dandy all in one phillips/sparkplug
remover wrench, started it up & adjusted the idle by ear.
I set it to where it sounded the way I thought it should sound at an idle.
WHAT a Difference!!
The engine ran better than it ever has.
I let my dad listen to it because he is a mechanic.
He said it sounded fine & the idle probably just slowly vibrated out of whack.
This is VERY possible because I ride fast & hard & over alot of bumpy terrain.
Hmm, how will the engine run with quality fuel in it??
Anyway, just thought I would share something so obvious (probably to most of you)
Just wish something could be done about the fuel tank.....
Starrman15
Well, I am going to be honest & describe my experience from earlier today.
The Robin quit on me twice & I was......upset!!
I have been dealing with this problem off & on since I started riding again
after the winter months.
And NO I didn't winterize it....my mistake but it ran just fine for about 5 weeks then it wouldn't start at all.
Thats when Dennis reccomended fuel Stabilizer & slowly but surely things got better.
But it does die on me every now & then.
Now it only quits & when it DOES quit is when I am sitting at an idle.
Never while accelerating.
So I thought "here we go again...better grab the ol' fuel stabil"
When it does this, the stabil is the only cure.
Then, a light bulb from my distant past of pushing lawnmowers came on
inexplicably.....maybe because I was so hot!
Anyway, I asked myself this question:
"Have you ever adjusted the engine idle since you purchased the engine?"
Answer, "NO!"
So I primed the thing, took the handy-dandy all in one phillips/sparkplug
remover wrench, started it up & adjusted the idle by ear.
I set it to where it sounded the way I thought it should sound at an idle.
WHAT a Difference!!
The engine ran better than it ever has.
I let my dad listen to it because he is a mechanic.
He said it sounded fine & the idle probably just slowly vibrated out of whack.
This is VERY possible because I ride fast & hard & over alot of bumpy terrain.
Hmm, how will the engine run with quality fuel in it??
Anyway, just thought I would share something so obvious (probably to most of you)
Just wish something could be done about the fuel tank.....
Starrman15
S
Starrman15
Guest
Bicycles, Bicycles, etc.
Maybe I should post this topic under a new thread....but here goes.
I am looking for a new bike.
Mine is great but too tall & does not have any front suspension.
Saw a couple of mongoose Bicycles that are the style I am looking for.
But are they junk?
I saw a fairly high priced Schwinn IMO....at target (no it didn't have that stupid inner curl that eliminates the use of GEBE's ring)
I went through that horrible experience last year.
Luckily they took it back.
This bike is a Schwinn 26" S-60 DSX bike.
Anyone know anything aboout it?
It was around $250.00.
Saw a mongoose xr-75 for $99.00 dollars at Wal-Mart.
Fit me perfect....but is it junk?
It was great to be able to put my feet flat on the ground.
I of course will use my GEBE wheels & other mods.
I like the front suspension of these 2 bikes & there are many of them out there for us "short guys" that are all similar in this style.
Since I will be motorizing what I purchase, are there any bikes out there that have a few less gears/bells & whistles?
I Never use those 2 small sprockets anyway.
Also what about just buying a frame & moving everthing over from my present bike?
How costly would this be?
I HAVE to have some front suspension the way I ride!
My arms ache everyday!
Thank the Lord for Aleve!
Any & all input would be greatly appreciated!
Starrman15
Maybe I should post this topic under a new thread....but here goes.
I am looking for a new bike.
Mine is great but too tall & does not have any front suspension.
Saw a couple of mongoose Bicycles that are the style I am looking for.
But are they junk?
I saw a fairly high priced Schwinn IMO....at target (no it didn't have that stupid inner curl that eliminates the use of GEBE's ring)
I went through that horrible experience last year.
Luckily they took it back.
This bike is a Schwinn 26" S-60 DSX bike.
Anyone know anything aboout it?
It was around $250.00.
Saw a mongoose xr-75 for $99.00 dollars at Wal-Mart.
Fit me perfect....but is it junk?
It was great to be able to put my feet flat on the ground.
I of course will use my GEBE wheels & other mods.
I like the front suspension of these 2 bikes & there are many of them out there for us "short guys" that are all similar in this style.
Since I will be motorizing what I purchase, are there any bikes out there that have a few less gears/bells & whistles?
I Never use those 2 small sprockets anyway.
Also what about just buying a frame & moving everthing over from my present bike?
How costly would this be?
I HAVE to have some front suspension the way I ride!
My arms ache everyday!
Thank the Lord for Aleve!
Any & all input would be greatly appreciated!
Starrman15
bamabikeguy
Active Member
We're gonna get that thing purring, Starr.
The reason the gas is important is "name brands" don't add ethanol, and discount brands are FORCED BY GOV'T DECREE to sell it.
Ethanol is pretty much "unregulated", there is no standard for moisture/water content, and many a automobile will "vapor lock" from a bad batch. Discounters buy on a commodity system, never know what they are getting one month to the next, while name brands have those fancy additives that clean the carburator.
On our car, we run 3 tanks of 87 octane, avg 24-25 mpg, then put in one full tank of 91 octane Amoco, and rise to 27+mpg, with a distinct change in spark and carberation. "Flushing out the corn".
On that ride through Kansas and Nebraska last year, I was asking a lot of questions about ethanol, and while farmers grow the corn, but many don't burn it, they have these co-op deals where they can slide a card thru a pump and fill up with good "discounted" 89/91 octane 24/7.
Not much good to a passing bicyclist looking for good gas. I got a bad batch, vaporlocked for 30 miles, went to a small engine/ATV shop in a town with a single "ethanol" gas station, and got the inside scoop.
Once I dumped that gas from my tank and my spare canisters, put in his 2 cycle mix, (he had to travel 25 miles to get "brand name" for his chainsaws and such) the problem was solved. He also advised against "octane boosters".
Later, in Oklahoma, I found entire towns had banned ethanol sales, specifically because of the water content.
Somebody early on in MB.com put the creed in troubleshooting F-A-S. Fuel/air/spark. Look to fuel first, then air (idlescrew) then spark, and these engines are top of the line on spark, so "checking the gap" is really low on the list.
As to the idle screw- that was factory set at R/Subaru, and it would be a 9 times out of 10 type equation, you got the fluke, and it only took a smidgeon of adjustment to get it right.
That is where a new engine out of the box has the advantage, you've bought good gas, mixed 50:1 with superior 2 cycle oil, and avoided jackrabbiting during break-in. If you've done all that, and the thing doesn't run right, there are 3 things to look for.
1. Garbage/blockage in the fuel line
2. Idle screw adjustment
3. Cheap gas bought in error (Look to Stihl chainsaws for guidance, one year warranty is void if you use cheap oil mix rather than Stihl's brand, plus ethanol is never used by loggers)
You have to have hundreds, if not a thousand miles, on that engine for the other 3 culprits to show up.
1. Clogged spark arrestor screen on the end of the exhaust outlet (why I toss them out right off the bat)
2. Dirty air filter-very very rare
3. Carbon buildup on the cylinder walls- especially caused by cheap oil mix.
And it would be 3-5,000 miles before the sparkplug needed checking. I've checked that a few times, and the spark plug is always clean as a whistle.
Finally, if you are running fast and fine, and out of the blue the thing will not start, disconnect the kill switch and see if that isn't the problem, rather than the engine.
Since this post is so long, might as well put my "keeping the money local" philosophy in this.
If you have a choice, between a franchise gas station and a Mom and Pop who gets a nickel more, buy from Mom and Pop, better for you and them. Same with oil mix, instead of getting it from WallyWorld, find a reputable chainsaw dealer and get a six-pack of the good stuff, they will take an interest in your hobby and give advise on performance issues.
The reason the gas is important is "name brands" don't add ethanol, and discount brands are FORCED BY GOV'T DECREE to sell it.
Ethanol is pretty much "unregulated", there is no standard for moisture/water content, and many a automobile will "vapor lock" from a bad batch. Discounters buy on a commodity system, never know what they are getting one month to the next, while name brands have those fancy additives that clean the carburator.
On our car, we run 3 tanks of 87 octane, avg 24-25 mpg, then put in one full tank of 91 octane Amoco, and rise to 27+mpg, with a distinct change in spark and carberation. "Flushing out the corn".
On that ride through Kansas and Nebraska last year, I was asking a lot of questions about ethanol, and while farmers grow the corn, but many don't burn it, they have these co-op deals where they can slide a card thru a pump and fill up with good "discounted" 89/91 octane 24/7.
Not much good to a passing bicyclist looking for good gas. I got a bad batch, vaporlocked for 30 miles, went to a small engine/ATV shop in a town with a single "ethanol" gas station, and got the inside scoop.
Once I dumped that gas from my tank and my spare canisters, put in his 2 cycle mix, (he had to travel 25 miles to get "brand name" for his chainsaws and such) the problem was solved. He also advised against "octane boosters".
Later, in Oklahoma, I found entire towns had banned ethanol sales, specifically because of the water content.
Somebody early on in MB.com put the creed in troubleshooting F-A-S. Fuel/air/spark. Look to fuel first, then air (idlescrew) then spark, and these engines are top of the line on spark, so "checking the gap" is really low on the list.
As to the idle screw- that was factory set at R/Subaru, and it would be a 9 times out of 10 type equation, you got the fluke, and it only took a smidgeon of adjustment to get it right.
That is where a new engine out of the box has the advantage, you've bought good gas, mixed 50:1 with superior 2 cycle oil, and avoided jackrabbiting during break-in. If you've done all that, and the thing doesn't run right, there are 3 things to look for.
1. Garbage/blockage in the fuel line
2. Idle screw adjustment
3. Cheap gas bought in error (Look to Stihl chainsaws for guidance, one year warranty is void if you use cheap oil mix rather than Stihl's brand, plus ethanol is never used by loggers)
You have to have hundreds, if not a thousand miles, on that engine for the other 3 culprits to show up.
1. Clogged spark arrestor screen on the end of the exhaust outlet (why I toss them out right off the bat)
2. Dirty air filter-very very rare
3. Carbon buildup on the cylinder walls- especially caused by cheap oil mix.
And it would be 3-5,000 miles before the sparkplug needed checking. I've checked that a few times, and the spark plug is always clean as a whistle.
Finally, if you are running fast and fine, and out of the blue the thing will not start, disconnect the kill switch and see if that isn't the problem, rather than the engine.
Since this post is so long, might as well put my "keeping the money local" philosophy in this.
If you have a choice, between a franchise gas station and a Mom and Pop who gets a nickel more, buy from Mom and Pop, better for you and them. Same with oil mix, instead of getting it from WallyWorld, find a reputable chainsaw dealer and get a six-pack of the good stuff, they will take an interest in your hobby and give advise on performance issues.
bamabikeguy
Active Member
Mongoose is ****, the brakes are inferior, and they use the cheapest version of a Shimano shifter.
And the distributor in New Jersey hires only JERKS to handle customer complaints.
And the distributor in New Jersey hires only JERKS to handle customer complaints.
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