Staton-inc. friction drive kit, with a 1-1/8 drive roller, for a 240 lb. rider?

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by chad, Aug 22, 2012.

  1. chad

    chad Member

    Need the opinion of a Staton-inc. friction drive owner.

    I just received a Staton-Inc. friction drive kit, and I am installing a Honda GX35 on the kit. I was hoping someone with the same Stanton/motor combo would give me their opinion. Once I install it, I will not be able to exchange it, and I heard switching the rollers is very hard to do.

    The friction drive kit came with a 1-1/8 sized drive roller installed. I weigh 240 lbs. and live in a very flat area with no hills.

    Do you think the 1-1/8 sized drive roller work well with a 240 lb. rider, or should I change to the .930 sized roller?

    Last edited: Aug 23, 2012

  2. motman812

    motman812 Member

    I've got a 1 1/8" roller on my Staton-Honda GX35 on a 1981 Schwinn Cruiser 5 and it takes my 190 pounds up to 25 mph; previously I had a 7/8" roller on the same bike and it did 20 mph. Bulletproof performance for almost five years.
  3. chad

    chad Member

    Sorry to bother you,

    Do you think that your bike with the 1-1/8 roller, would move around a 240 lb. rider, without bogging down the engine?

    Thanks for your time,
  4. motman812

    motman812 Member

    I don't really have any basis for an answer except that more weight probably costs some speed.
  5. Richard H.

    Richard H. Member

    It will work but the question is how much do you expect to pedal? If you're looking for motor scooter type performance with no pedaling, then the whole concept of motor assisted bicycles comes into question.

    That is a myth perpetrated by one user from years ago but it sure get repeated over and over.
  6. motman812

    motman812 Member

    I had no problem changing from the 7/8" to the 1 1/8" (used a large socket to press out the bearing with my bench vice). Larger rollers might be a problem to install.
  7. grinningremlin

    grinningremlin Active Member

    I would consider the smaller one, there are times when you're gonna be tired, you can tell the engine is bogging, and then you get a headwind and just have to really pedal or throttle off.With the 1" you can putt putt, just no-pedal ride and get a little strength back while waiting for the wind to die off.
    Or just use the heck out of your gears and spin up.
  8. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    It should be fine. I've got a 1-1/8 roller with a Mitsu TLE43, and I tip the scales at over 300 pounds. My rig can push me along at 28 MPH.

    I am in a flat area also; if I were in the hills, I would go with a 1 inch or smaller roller, though.

    As far as changing rollers - As I understand it, it's the big rollers that are a real challenge to change (1-3/8 or 1-1/2.)
  9. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    I agree with Loquin, provisionly. 35cc and up should be fine unless you plan to go up
    the foothills. I don't know what engine you're running, but, on the rare dry days when
    I can run friction, a larger roller seems to grip better than a small one. Personally I
    think 7/8" is worthless no matter how big you are.
  10. chad

    chad Member

    Update: Friction drive with a 1 1/8 roller, with a Honda GX35, and a 240 lb. rider.

    I just took my first test ride, and I think the 1 1/8 roller was a good choice for me, and my terrain. (especially with the 4 stroke engine.)

    I heard that 4 strokes are not meant to be run at high rpm's for an extended time. With the 1 1/8 roller I can run the engine at low rpm's and still get high speeds. I do have to pedal a lot to get going, but once I get going I go, and I dont have to pedal any more. And its much faster than I thought it would be.

    The whole ride was kinda strange for me. I have an electric e-zip bike, and with the electric bike, I can not ride at high speeds, because the battery will run out real quick, and my range was very limited. But with this gas engine I can go around 20mph for huge distances.

    And also with the electric bike I had to carry batteries back and forth to the charger, and I had to connect and disconnect, its a pain in the butt. (though I heard the new lipo batteries are much, much better, just very expensive.)

    But for me, no more riding at 5 mph to conserve batteries, no more carrying and charging heavy batteries. Now I pull a string and go fast, and I just keep going and going. Maybe tomorrow I will fully realize, that I don't have go slow, and I dont have to worry about battery charge levels. No telling were I may end up.

    Thanks for all your help,
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2012
  11. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    That was my beef with electric too. As far as pedaling hills is concerned,
    it's a darn sight easier with a gx35 kicker. THe nice thing about friction
    that it's simple to lift the roller off when you want to pedal or coast.
    There's some really steep long grades around here that anything short
    of 5 hp aint gonna climb. That's when I lift off and just use the super
    low gearing of my old school mountain bike. It was made back when
    mtn. bikes were designed to go uphill instead of down.
  12. Richard H.

    Richard H. Member

    Glad you're satisfied with the results so far, IMO it's a good selection and reliable solution among gas powered choices that you've settled on.

    No offense but just as is the case with ICE powered MABs, there are also much more tenable solutions in eBikes. The e-zip is pretty much entry level today among the increasingly advanced and efficient eBike choices available.
  13. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Oh yeah, Richard,
    If you've got the bucks, there are electrics out there that leave virtually
    every ICE MAB in the dust. Too bad I can't afford one...or maybe not. I'd
    be scared witless on a bicycle that will out accelerate a Corvette:shout:
  14. Quadranut

    Quadranut Member

    Staton FD w 1 inch Honda 35gx 16.5 miles thru rolling terrain about 45 to 60 minutes travel time at 3/4 throttle. Bell kevlar smooth street tire, slime tube on the rear. 4 or 5 revs on the pedals at start up. The kicker is I can't spin the pedals fast enough to help the engine up the hills :grin5: oh yeah 200 lbs plus 20 lbs in the back pack.
  15. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    I hear ya on the pedal spin issue. I just installed a new
    cassette with a 12 tooth high gear. with 4+ to 1, I now
    climb on the pedal and power into hills. I've discovered
    the my gx35 couldn't pull enuff gas under load to get
    full revs so I enlarged the tank vent slightly to solve
    the problem.
  16. seanshonda

    seanshonda New Member

    i have a gx50 w/1.5"

    I weigh 180, and my top speed is 28mph. I must still have way too much pressure(tire deflection from roller). I increased the pressure while riding in the rain, decreased it after getting flats every 10-15 miles. I had the gx50 oil sensor problem, and when it died, I couldn't pedal it fast nor far. as for cruising at slower speeds, a lot of it is your clutch springs, I tried the 4000 rpm springs, and switched back to the 3000s. thank you all for sharing.
  17. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Actually, My belt drive gx35 is fine around town,....but since I put a Tanaka
    pf4000 on the technium MB the friction drive is just fierce. I've a modified
    1 3/8" roller shaped to match the profile of the tire I use. The extra power &
    traction I get has doubled my rate of climb. In the wet I just use about 5 pds.
    less pressure which has reduced slippage considerably. I love the Tanaka;
    it's lighter, and revs higher faster than that persnickety @$#%$%^$#
    chinese honda 50 clone I regret ever buying. Only 40cc, but the pf4000 has way more
    power than the clone. The Honda GX50"s a good engine, but it really was designed
    for a bike,( I site the oil sensor thing & governor issue).
  18. seanshonda

    seanshonda New Member

    all ive heard of tanaka was good, i like

    the power of a 2stroke off the line, just hate having to mix gas. I was looking into getting the tanaka 47, but would've had to drill new holes on the other side of my mount--Honda turns ccw while the tanaka turns cw--plus the tanaka dealer I spoke w/ c(w)ouldn't tell me mounting bolt pattern or about the clutch, he said they're made for backpack blowers, not bicycles, but he had Chinese 5hp motor(20lb-4000rpm) that would work good as a bike motor(too heavy, slow & chinese for me). then I found out about the tanaka 47r, 2.8hp, 12000rpm, 9lbs--that's .7(or .3)hp, 5000rpm, and over 3lbs difference than my gx50! I hear you on the Chinese motors, id never buy one, too finicky and fallaparty for me. I like to ride my bike, not cuss and work on it(I know that initially the Chinese cost less, but they cost more in the long run fixing them, even if you do it yourself, I mean time is money and id rather ride. Ride on.
  19. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    re: backpack blower Tanaka. Yeah, they usually come on blowers, but Low Racer has put one on a friction drive with awesome results. I think he put a happytime pipe on one of them.
  20. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Well Sean, it's a trade off twixt mixing & changing oil. I'm as down on cheap
    2 strokes as I am on cheap four strokes. The tanaka's a different animal.
    I mix two gallons at a time & then I don't need to bother again for a couple
    month. I have 4 liter vitamin bottles I fill with mix, and I keep a funnel in my
    tool kit. Touring I keep 2 gal. in my trailer, so I'm good for 300 mi. That's a
    stealth cowling over the Tanaka lined with sound deadener. I'll try to post
    another pic of my setup ready to roll and a ground spread of what I carry.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 27, 2013