Staton-inc. friction drive kit, with a 1-1/8 drive roller, for a 240 lb. rider?

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That was my beef with electric too. As far as pedaling hills is concerned,
it's a darn sight easier with a gx35 kicker. THe nice thing about friction
that it's simple to lift the roller off when you want to pedal or coast.
There's some really steep long grades around here that anything short
of 5 hp aint gonna climb. That's when I lift off and just use the super
low gearing of my old school mountain bike. It was made back when
mtn. bikes were designed to go uphill instead of down.
 
Glad you're satisfied with the results so far, IMO it's a good selection and reliable solution among gas powered choices that you've settled on.

I have an electric e-zip bike, and with the electric bike, I can not ride at high speeds, because the battery will run out real quick, and my range was very limited.

No offense but just as is the case with ICE powered MABs, there are also much more tenable solutions in eBikes. The e-zip is pretty much entry level today among the increasingly advanced and efficient eBike choices available.
 
Oh yeah, Richard,
If you've got the bucks, there are electrics out there that leave virtually
every ICE MAB in the dust. Too bad I can't afford one...or maybe not. I'd
be scared witless on a bicycle that will out accelerate a Corvette:eek:
 
Staton FD w 1 inch Honda 35gx 16.5 miles thru rolling terrain about 45 to 60 minutes travel time at 3/4 throttle. Bell kevlar smooth street tire, slime tube on the rear. 4 or 5 revs on the pedals at start up. The kicker is I can't spin the pedals fast enough to help the engine up the hills :D oh yeah 200 lbs plus 20 lbs in the back pack.
 
I hear ya on the pedal spin issue. I just installed a new
cassette with a 12 tooth high gear. with 4+ to 1, I now
climb on the pedal and power into hills. I've discovered
the my gx35 couldn't pull enuff gas under load to get
full revs so I enlarged the tank vent slightly to solve
the problem.
 
i have a gx50 w/1.5"

It should be fine. I've got a 1-1/8 roller with a Mitsu TLE43, and I tip the scales at over 300 pounds. My rig can push me along at 28 MPH.

I am in a flat area also; if I were in the hills, I would go with a 1 inch or smaller roller, though.

As far as changing rollers - As I understand it, it's the big rollers that are a real challenge to change (1-3/8 or 1-1/2.)
I weigh 180, and my top speed is 28mph. I must still have way too much pressure(tire deflection from roller). I increased the pressure while riding in the rain, decreased it after getting flats every 10-15 miles. I had the gx50 oil sensor problem, and when it died, I couldn't pedal it fast nor far. as for cruising at slower speeds, a lot of it is your clutch springs, I tried the 4000 rpm springs, and switched back to the 3000s. thank you all for sharing.
 
Actually, My belt drive gx35 is fine around town,....but since I put a Tanaka
pf4000 on the technium MB the friction drive is just fierce. I've a modified
1 3/8" roller shaped to match the profile of the tire I use. The extra power &
traction I get has doubled my rate of climb. In the wet I just use about 5 pds.
less pressure which has reduced slippage considerably. I love the Tanaka;
it's lighter, and revs higher faster than that persnickety @$#%$%^$#
chinese honda 50 clone I regret ever buying. Only 40cc, but the pf4000 has way more
power than the clone. The Honda GX50"s a good engine, but it really was designed
for a bike,( I site the oil sensor thing & governor issue).
 
all ive heard of tanaka was good, i like

Actually, My belt drive gx35 is fine around town,....but since I put a Tanaka
pf4000 on the technium MB the friction drive is just fierce. I've a modified
1 3/8" roller shaped to match the profile of the tire I use. The extra power &
traction I get has doubled my rate of climb. In the wet I just use about 5 pds.
less pressure which has reduced slippage considerably. I love the Tanaka;
it's lighter, and revs higher faster than that persnickety @$#%$%^$#
chinese honda 50 clone I regret ever buying. Only 40cc, but the pf4000 has way more
power than the clone. The Honda GX50"s a good engine, but it really was designed
for a bike,( I site the oil sensor thing & governor issue).

the power of a 2stroke off the line, just hate having to mix gas. I was looking into getting the tanaka 47, but would've had to drill new holes on the other side of my mount--Honda turns ccw while the tanaka turns cw--plus the tanaka dealer I spoke w/ c(w)ouldn't tell me mounting bolt pattern or about the clutch, he said they're made for backpack blowers, not bicycles, but he had Chinese 5hp motor(20lb-4000rpm) that would work good as a bike motor(too heavy, slow & chinese for me). then I found out about the tanaka 47r, 2.8hp, 12000rpm, 9lbs--that's .7(or .3)hp, 5000rpm, and over 3lbs difference than my gx50! I hear you on the Chinese motors, id never buy one, too finicky and fallaparty for me. I like to ride my bike, not cuss and work on it(I know that initially the Chinese cost less, but they cost more in the long run fixing them, even if you do it yourself, I mean time is money and id rather ride. Ride on.
 
re: backpack blower Tanaka. Yeah, they usually come on blowers, but Low Racer has put one on a friction drive with awesome results. I think he put a happytime pipe on one of them.
 
Well Sean, it's a trade off twixt mixing & changing oil. I'm as down on cheap
2 strokes as I am on cheap four strokes. The tanaka's a different animal.
I mix two gallons at a time & then I don't need to bother again for a couple
month. I have 4 liter vitamin bottles I fill with mix, and I keep a funnel in my
tool kit. Touring I keep 2 gal. in my trailer, so I'm good for 300 mi. That's a
stealth cowling over the Tanaka lined with sound deadener. I'll try to post
another pic of my setup ready to roll and a ground spread of what I carry.
 

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