Staton-Inc friction drive review at 50 miles

T

TWalker

Guest
It gets a good thumbs up except for 2 things:

1. The low oil shut off had to be disabled becuase it it shut down the engine on bumps.
2. It does not freewheel down hills, Staton didn't tell me that but some members here made that claim! It will start freewheeling at between 10-15 MPH when the clutch disnegages. Rolling down long hills at speed the clutch is still engaged and rolls nicely but dont mistake that for freewheeling, the engine is engaged and turning and creating a pull until the clutch disengages.

I was little dissapointed it didnt come with a kill switch and I think it would be good to show pictures of EXACTLY what comes with the kit.

But Kudos to Staton on a very fine piece of machinery overall.

Below is what I posted in another thread about my positive experience with Staton.
I got my Staton friction last week fairly quickly I think around 9 days. Its been on 2 bikes so far and more to come, thats why I bought the friction kit. I logged maybe 50 miles so far and it is outstanding, the friction part that is. The motor wouldnt stay running due a low oil shut off problem on the Honda.

I live in in the mountains where there are nothing but hills and mountains and it performed well except in wet conditions of course. I took it up what we call the Swiss Chalet mountain pass yesterday and it made with some pedaling. Half way up it started raining near the top it started slipping on the Kenda Flame tire. But of course this about a 2 mile steep grade in the Rocky Mountains so I was impressed I finally got to ride up it.

people always ask: will these things make it up Swiss Chalet pass? My answer now: Yes even with friction drive.

In dry conditions the Honda GXH50 will bog down before it slips, then its pedal time.

Yes friction drive works pretty well but it wont be long now before I move on to gear/chain and Nuvinci transmission/hub. I need to sell my motorcycle and then it's off to the big time.
 
Drag from the friction roller is caused by tire deflection. If you will set the roller on the tire, under its own weight, drag will be very little as tire deflection will be almost non existent. If you attempt to run under this condition the roller will slip and destroy your tire. If you place a great deal of tension on the roller, it won't slip but deflection induced drag will increase like crazy and the engine won't produce normal speed. If you apply just enough tension so the roller won't slip while holding the bike and going WOT, that's the best you can get.
 
Clutch seems to work - just perfect - on my Station set up. Springs in clutch are matched perfectly -- any change -- and clutch probably won't work.. Ride That Thing - Mountainman

whenever u ad tougher clutch springs.the motor has to pick up more speed before it ingages.therefore producing more take off horse power cause the motor has more power at higher rpms.i was just wondering if those stronger springs would unlock the shoes from the drum sooner.
 
I'm glad to hear the Honda35-staton kit is well thought of. I am buying a used one from smittrailfire here on the forums. It's destined for a Rans Rocket recumbent.

If I'm not mistaken, the centrifugal clutch will engage at a certain RPM's, and until the clutch goes below that certain RPM's it will stay engaged and turn the engine even if the kill switch is on. SO, if you're going down a hill at 20mph (definitely engaged clutch) and you pick up speed, you are turning the engine that whole time. If, however, you slow down at the top of the hill and the clutch DISengages, as long as you don't hit the gas you can freewheel down the hill without the clutch engaging. Even more complicated, if you are freewheeling down that hill and you rev the engine, the clutch will engage and STAY engaged until you slow everything down...Anyone else? Does this sound right?
 
B.K. -- that's about it - once we get used to it - pretty happy with the set up. Once when I first started riding my Station friction drive - I disengaged at the top of a hill and then on the way down touched my throttle - mistake - engine reved up A LOT trying to catch up. Tough little thing -- Happy Riding from - Mountainman
 
Previously, with my Mits engine and 1.125" friction drive, I'd be coasting downhill at 20 mph with engine idling. When I hit the gas, the engine revved to its top end range and coughed and fell flat on its face. With 1.5" roller going the same speed on the same downhill, the engine now revs to its midrange, then accelerates past 30 mph.

It depends on the roller size, how violently your engine will react.
 
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