Staton RS 35cc cut out problem

Discussion in '4-Stroke Engines' started by Radeonman, Apr 30, 2012.

  1. Radeonman

    Radeonman New Member

    So I just got a staton 35cc robin subaru kit and I am new here and im having a problem with the engine cutting out when you let off the throttle and hit the brakes. I increased the idle speed slightly and that appears to have solved the problem, however, I am worried that the engine may be idling too fast or that I just masked another problem...clutch maybe? How can I tell what the appropriate idle speed is? the manual says 3000+ or-100 but thats not very helpful since i have no way of measuring RPMs. Any help would be very appreciated!
     

  2. BigBlue

    BigBlue Active Member

    Look three posts down from yours. Do a search on Robin Subaru and you may find some help. Others have had problems with kill switch and O-ring in carb.

    Good Luck,

    Chris
    AKA: BigBlue
     
  3. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    I think to be fair it needs be said one member had an issue with a Robin EHO35 with what he said looked like an o-ring that had been sucked into the chamber and lodged under a valve and at last report he was never able to identify where it came from. Given it's the only instance where I've ever seen it mentioned it's hard to account (on a case by case basis of use and maintenance and the way everyone might handles their things) the way a foreign object like that might get introduced into a fuel system.
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2012
  4. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    If you just got it and it's all brand new, give it a decent break-in, run good clean gas and give it a little time to settle in. Adjusting the idle up a bit is no reason to think automatically there is another problem. Also, if you're interested and you look around a bit, some inexpensive (around or under 20 bucks), electronic tach/hour meters are available that are handy to have. (note: Get the two wire type if you can).
     
  5. Radeonman

    Radeonman New Member

    Thanks, Could you reccomend a tach/hour meter? Sorry im new here and have no idea what I would be looking for.
     
  6. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    There are a number of brands, some pricier like TinyTach and Sendec, and eBay is full of the cheaper imports, just search "tach/hour meter" there.

    I've had good luck with the imported ones, I picked up a box of ten from a guy in Florida for around $100 a few years ago like this:

    tach.JPG

    As I made note above, they all had the two wire set-up, with one wire a ground, and they performed great. Since then, I recently purchased another one to put on someone's bike that looked identical but it is only wired with the one lead and it is not as stable and the rpm counter tends to fluctuate widely at times. Some guys on a ATV forum confirmed the one wire issue. I'm not sure if you can still find the ones with 2 wires but I would definitely ask before I bought another one.
     
  7. Mike St

    Mike St Member

    I too had a minor problem with unsteady idling of the RS engine. The tanaka purefire 33cc runs very smooth totally. With more running and better gasoline it might run better.
     
  8. Daniel_62

    Daniel_62 Member

    Radeonman, I have been running several RS 35's with very good luck, The Hour-tach
    that Staton sells is available at Northern Tool and many other places, I have several and they seem about as good as any other, that said, All of mine seem to do well at about 2300 rpm, I am in Hot Humid Texas and on Todays 30 mile ride I had the engine die, several times, the tach was reading 1900 , maybe the hot air caused a lower idle, I raised it a little bit and all is normal again,

    Good quality gas, and change oil Often,


    Dave
     
  9. LR Jerry

    LR Jerry Well-Known Member

    I've got a Staton Inc crank drive system on my auto shift bike. I use the RS EHO 35 engine. I also got the tach from Staton it works great. When you get one let your engine run about five minutes before adjusting. To my good fortune there's a station where I live which sells 100% gas. 93 octane is all I ever use.
     
  10. Oban

    Oban New Member

    I've just found this thread and am interested because I am the 'one member' that Happy Valley refers to.
    I would just like to clear a couple of issues up because there seems to be a little doubt creeping in;
    1) The o ring which I said looks like an o ring is in fact a o ring! I have it sat in front of me and as I said in the previous thread it has a 13.5mm external diameter and an impression of the valve left in it.
    2) When I was fault finding I contacted Subaru America who were initially very helpful and told me that there have been instances of o rings lodging under the valves. After finding the problem I tried to find out from them where it came from but the e-mails abruptly stopped.

    The engine was totally untampered with and had a few hours of running only.

    I am as mystified as Happy Valley as to how an o ring of that diameter could lodge itself under the inlet valve - but it did.....

    The motor has ran fine since except I've noticed a petrol leak from the carb when the ambient temperature rises. So it looks like a carb strip is imminent.

    Any ideas would be gratefully received
    Cheers
    Oban
     
  11. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    Sounds like the o-ring that mates the carb to the air housing.
     
  12. Oban

    Oban New Member

    Yes Darwin that would appear to be it but when I stripped the carb it was still intact and in place.
    Perhaps one was left in the intake when manufactured as like Happy Valley I don't see anyway that such a large object could pass through the air intake.
     
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