Still looking for a round tank.

Solder technics

Hi Jim, well, "sweating" is a process I used in doing copper plumbing.

You flux the area, then apply heat where you want the copper to flow, playing your solder along the edge, and it will hydrolicly suck into the viod.

Then, after you get it sweated, back off, let it cool, then you can "play" the flame and lay the solder down as filler on top of the cut edge.

If you wanted, tho, just sweat it down, and use bondo or other filler on top of the cut.

The trick would be to shape the flange of the cap so it fits the can well. Then flux it well, good fluxing will sometimes include "brushing" the fluxed area with the flame to "set" or etch in the flux. Anyway. once well fluxed, I'd pop-rivit that cap's flange with small steel rivits, this will insure it does not move....ever.

now sweat it, fill it, and paint it.

if you are gentle with the flame, you will be surprised how much lead you can lay up.

Mike
 
Lead, Gas Lights

Thanks for the detail. I have done the process, just didn't use the term. Always allowed the heat to suck the solder into the joint.

I keep hundreds of pop rivets on hand, but think they are all aluminum? Will have to look for a steel pop rivit source.

Still have Pres-O-lite tanks. One is a MC and the other a B. From the days of gas lights on motor vehicles. MC for motor car and B for bus. I am sure my torch regulator diaphragms have all gone bad. These were before the days of todays turbo torches. Refrigeration service men used the MC tank and a Halite torch to detect refrigerant leaks. A lot of R-12 systems were installed using 95-5 solder. 60-40 was also used. Now lead is a dirty word. With the higher pressures of R-22 we went to silfos for copper to copper and silver for steel to copper.

That would be a good idea for the guys building the retro motor bikes. Several have had what looked like a carbide light on them. They wouldn't have to worry about the "white wire" capacity if they went to gas lights? )

Again you have given me some more ideas.

My 1.33 gallon beer kegs arrived today and waiting for the deck fill fittings to arrive from the marine supply. Looks like a good long range tank.

I think the V8 tank will be a better fit for the space available behind the seat and above the rack?

Next how to generate charging / lighting power from the Honda GXH50.

Jim
 
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Mini-Keg Picturs

I received the two Mini-kegs from Midwest Supplies. There are about 9 3/4" end to end and 6 1/2" in diameter.

Think I will use them as long trip tanks and make a V8 Tank for shorter trips.

I need to test the rubber in the bungs to see if they swell wt. gas? I didn't expect the 2nd bung for the outlet at the bottom. The top bung comes with a plastic plug to just keep junk out. The top bungs had to be ordered separately. If the rubber isn't compatible, guess I will have to solder SS plates over them.

Jim
 

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Tank Vent

For sure it will need a vent. Like a gas cap it needs splsh protection Maybe a small hole in the deck fill cap with a small baffel of stainless steel wool held against the hole? Still thinking on that.

Already had decided to keep the full 1 1/2" hose barb on the deck fill fitting and just a small hole towards the top to allow air to escape when filling the tank.

Jim


Don't forget with a homemade tank, that the cap may, or may not need venting !!
 
Tank

Interesting!

No one mentioned PVC...as in white water grade PVC avail everywhere. Thick stuff.

Easy, cheap, and can be customized in many ways and shapes...

Evolve!
 
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did my MB Evolve or was it made ???

No one mentioned PVC...as in sewer grade avail everywhere.

Evolve![/COLOR][/FONT][/B]

black sewer grade pvc is not as strong as the white stuff used for fresh water
because it doen't have to be rated to hold high pressure

Evolve or Evolved -- not one that I've seen

ride that thing
 
PVC Tank

Yes, I thought they were same thing. Thanks. I edited original.

The white stuff is what I had in mind. Bike evolves as the builder does...
 
PVC, white and CPVC, black

It looks like the black stuff is a better material as it is used for chemical drains? Not sure if gas or gas/oil will effect it. Of course it is solvent welded and that is a hydrocarbon like gasoline.

I build outdoor CCTV camera housings from CPVC (cut a 4" piece of pipe at a 45 degree angle for a eyebrow and sun shade and use a cap on the other end. Tap the plastic or install a captive nut now that Harbor Freight has the "pop rivet" blind hole nut setter.) and it really holds up in the AZ sun. The exposed PVC by the pumps and filter of the pool turn brown and get brittle if not protected wt. paint or a shield. PVC gets very unstable as it ages and it doesn't take much to crack it.

Many sprinkler systems are put in wt. the thin stuff , Schedule 10 and they break underground after a few years. I can't see using the stuff for the little difference in cost.

I am going to see if gasoline effects either of the plastics. They would sure make nice tanks.

Been intending to look for pet cocks / strainers on eBay for the tank projects.

Jim
 
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