Strike 3 Your Out or Homerun????????????

BMP setup is idiot proof and parts are 3 day delivery away or overnight if your feeling rich.
 
Looks like any Friction kit would be a Ground Rule Double with the Robin/Subaru EH035.


Has anyone ever tried mounting a 50cc motorcycle engine with factory gears/shifter on it on a bicycle?

I don't mean the Morini/KTM 50cc conversions. They don't have gears.


It seems like most of the problems arise from trying to achieve a proper transition of power to the ground. It seems like all the heartache, and wallets getting emptied is to compensate for this problem.

I know a 50cc engine with factory gears/shifter weighs around 40lbs. That is alot of weight, but shifting the weight thru a series of 5 gears would seem to make the 40lbs not a problem. Again, I do not know i'm only speculating. If anyone has done this, I would love to see it.

Maybe it is just me, But i would rather not pedal my MB/bicycle at all. I only want the bicycle drive chain still attached/working to............dupe the police, or pedal it if i run out of gas. I do not want to pedal it up a hill or pedal it to start off at a complete stop to help the motor.

That is it.

Hoping to find a kindered spirit, any info one might on one of these projects, i would greatly appreciate it. We have a shop where i could make/fabricate motor mounts.

I would just like to see the groundwork laid out first, to see the feasibility and performance of this.

Hope you understand, Thanks again for all your help.
 
I would go GEBE.... with rs eho35. No questions asked... its superior to the staton and not a whole lot harder to install. I have both kits and the GEBE is better... there is a reason it costs more $$$.

Can I ask what you did to those engines???? I have yet to blow one up and I have tried, even used NOS... I have 3 bikes using the HT kits, 1 zoombikes, 1 grubee, and 1 flying hoarse... maybe don't buy BGF??? Maybe its how you are breaking them in???

I hear nothing but bad comments about bgf...
 
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Has anyone ever tried mounting a 50cc motorcycle engine with factory gears/shifter on it on a bicycle?


It seems like most of the problems arise from trying to achieve a proper transition of power to the ground. It seems like all the heartache, and wallets getting emptied is to compensate for this problem.

I know a 50cc engine with factory gears/shifter weighs around 40lbs. That is alot of weight, but shifting the weight thru a series of 5 gears would seem to make the 40lbs not a problem. Again, I do not know i'm only speculating. If anyone has done this, I would love to see it.

A potential problem that arises with the tendency to pursue this is to get away from the spirit of simplicity of a MAB, motor assisted bicycle, as well as almost all state moped regs that require automatic/one speed gearing. There can develop a sort of 'mission creep' into a whole other vehicle classification.

Maybe it is just me, But i would rather not pedal my MB/bicycle at all. I only want the bicycle drive chain still attached/working to............dupe the police, or pedal it if i run out of gas. I do not want to pedal it up a hill or pedal it to start off at a complete stop to help the motor.

That is it.

At some point a small motorcycle may begin to make the most sense.
 
I have built 3 MBs. 1 Staton friction drive, 1 Staton chain drive, and a GEBE belt drive, all with Robin 35 engines. If I put as many miles a year on as you I would go with Staton's chain drive kit. It is bullet proof, should last for years and you can easily change the small drive sprocket on the gearbox to change ratios to suit different terrains. The GEBE set up is also good and also offers easily changed drive gears. I haven't had mine long enough to know how long the drive belts will last. It is certainly simple, light, and (if the belts last) would be my first choice. I have had zero problems with the Subaru Robin EHO35 4 cycle engines. They have adequate power and torque, give very good gas mileage, and mine start first or second pull everytime.
 
yep... gebe kit is the best.

I have both kits... I would choose the gebe kit hands down. Its smooth belt operation coupled with the low vibration highly reliable eho35 cant be beat. I even use it to haul my new trailer.... all I needed was a #14 gear.
 
I have built 3 MBs. 1 Staton friction drive, 1 Staton chain drive, and a GEBE belt drive, all with Robin 35 engines. If I put as many miles a year on as you I would go with Staton's chain drive kit. It is bullet proof, should last for years and you can easily change the small drive sprocket on the gearbox to change ratios to suit different terrains. The GEBE set up is also good and also offers easily changed drive gears. I haven't had mine long enough to know how long the drive belts will last. It is certainly simple, light, and (if the belts last) would be my first choice. I have had zero problems with the Subaru Robin EHO35 4 cycle engines. They have adequate power and torque, give very good gas mileage, and mine start first or second pull everytime.

dont know how many hundreds of miles... still on first belt. Not even any signs of wear.

I bought and carried an extra belt with me for a while, but gave up on it because it took up valuable space.

my eho35 starts on second pull every time... its bulletproof.

Stupid me... even ran it for the first two or three times w/no oil because I forgot to fill it when I installed the motor. They were short 5-10 min runs and I would DEFINITELY NOT TRY THIS ON PURPOSE... but the engine still runs strong and smooth to this day.
 
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Is there anyone that lives in the Florida Keys in this forum that has a Friction Drive, a GEBE, or a Stanton Chain/Gear Drive? I have not seen one at all on the main road US1 down here. If someone had one, I would probably know it because the Overseas highway is the main artery, but i have not seen a single one. The one guy that used to sell the china 68.5/80cc kits installed on bicycles down here no longer sells them. The reason(cheap,china,junk). I'm in Marathon in the Florida Keys, MM 50. But I can travel to Key west MM1 thru Key Largo MM100 to test ride one. I was hoping someone would be kind and let me take a spin on there ride before I decide to get another/different MB kit. I'm in limbo if i should try another MB attempt or just get a motorcycle or a scooter. Thanks,

or if someone is coming down to the keys and is bringing theirs with them, and let me test ride, I would appreciate it. If you are a fishermen, I can put you on some sweet bones. The fly fishing for permit is on. I have had lots of shots, and hooked a 25lber on fly. It wasnt even a crab pattern he sucked up. He sucked up one of my mantis shrimp patterns that i tie.

Let me get on your bike and I'll put you on some bones.

Tightlines and saltybehinds,
 
I have a front Staton friction drive, a front BikeBug(untested), rear Staton and BMP housings. Also a Staton chain drive and scooterguy midframe/shiftkit(untested).

I need to have the power to keep up with traffic. If not, it is too dangerous here to ride a motorized bicycle. If I need to pedal, I find safety on sidewalks, but I ride slow and ALWAYS ALWAYS give the pedestrian a lot of room and respect.

Like the OP referred to, I'm the guy with the high-powered rocketships on cinder blocks. LOL. Senior citizen life keeps me busy, and so do my projects, my fulltime job. and night school. Thank God the kids are adults.

I've probably worn through more rear tires and had more flats than anyone on this site. Probably swapped more friction rollers than y'all too. BMP housings are infinitely easier to change bearings and rollers than the other guy. Staton has an excellent 1.375" and 1.5" roller. You can swap them into BMP housings by changing clutch drums, spacers, rollers and bearings. It is simple enough to sand down the roller ends just enough to change the press-fit to slip-fit. You can now change rollers and bearings in less than 2 minutes, whereas swapping spindles and bearings in the other guy's drive housings cost you a day's downtime and $80 EACH TIME you do it. Bearings at a gokart online site costs $4.50/pair, whereas one vendor sells them for $13.50/set.

Haven't tried the axle mount or NuVinci yet, or Happy Time stuff.

For the bulletproof combination, I'd choose Staton chain drive and Mitsubishi TLE43cc engine. However, changing rear tires are a royal pain.

Changing rear tires OFTEN on friction drive is a royal pain also. They wear through quicker because of the road surface materials and wet weather.

Climbing medium hills with a 1.5" roller is an effort on a single-speed bike, but no biggie with multi-speed bike. A 1.5" roller on the flats is the bomb.

Climbing hills with 1.375" roller is easier, might be the best all-around roller.

My first MB had a Subaru 1.6hp engine and 1.125" roller on a Dahon folding bike. Good starter bike. A "widowmaker" with 2.2hp Mits engine and Staton chain drive.

In my opinion, the best combination would be the scooterguy midframe/shift kit setup with Mits/Honda/Tanaka/Subaru engine. Not particularly keen about the long, exposed chain, but tire access would be same as regular bike. Tire wear would be excellent.

I'm guessing that the ultimate setup for me would be a midframe Japanese engine with short chain and SBP/shift kit.

:unsure:Vendors should probably come up with this next.
 
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Check this out, only three people down here in the Florida Keys that have motorized bicycles that i know of are: two people have china 68.5/80 cc kits. The other person down here only has one leg and has this kit. It looks high quality made in australia. Check out this URL: Called a Rotary bicycle engine kit

http://www.rotarybike.com/rotarybike_products.asp?type=Petrol&pid=39&action=details

Is says price is $1550.00 GST not sure what that is in US dollars. Looks like quality, and he cruises very quiet.

Anyone have any reliability info on them?

Thanks,
 
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