the problem lies in this... did the cylinder crack around the stud? ive had that happen once or twice. that means new cylinder. or welding and drill/tap. only to have it do it again
of course, if its stripped simply because the guy in the factory got over eager and epoxied it in place (seen that more than once too!) youre in luck. maybe.
being the intake, you cant really tap it out to the next common size up, M8. could maybe squeeze a M7 in there but the extra cost of finding the tap and studs for that size is as much as a new cylinder, and wont necessarily work. 1/4 x 24 could be an option, but i throw things at people that mix up imperial and metric threads. its a nasty habit. dont start up now!
an M6 helicoil is the easiest method, but....the kit costs about as much as a new cylinder, and getting any workshop other than your friends to do a helicoil, usually, once again...costs more than a new cylinder. though it is a simple five minute job they usually give to the apprentice who has no idea what he is doing... which only makes things worse.
if you do choose to get a kit, its worthwhile to helicoil the whole engine. the inserts only cost a few cents. its the special sized tap that costs ya! and dont EVER mix that tap up with others if you have any more... anyways. a motorcycle or marine mechanic is more likely to have an M6 kit in stock than an auto mechanic...
last resort, it does work... ram stud back in hole. get a 3mm drill bit. drill into side of cylinder, where its beefed up for the stud, so you drill through the stud as well. then hammer in a pin of some type.a 1/8 welding rod "butt" is good. lock the stud in permanently
or carefully dremel a slot, enough to get a thin nut in BEHIND where the stud locates...then use a bolt. now thats almost standard on brushcutters/chainsaws. dont even know if that one can be done...just brainstorming....i think im flooded
oh! yes! the best method!
TEKSCREWS!
everyone loves tekscrews
