Tanaka 'Hot Start' problem

[uncle_punk13]

Hey all,
When out riding my M/B, (rack mount Tanaka PF40) if I stop at a store, when I come back out (engine still warm) I have a heck of a time getting it re-started.
Is anyone else having this issue, and what have you done to alleviate this? Is there a 'routine', or certain 'settings' I need to adhere to in this situation? When cold it fires right off with no problems, and runs like gangbusters (still in break in period) while cruisin' around. Just hard to start when warmed up.
Any ideas?
I did a thread search for this but came up with nothing; if this has already been addressed, please direct me to the proper thread...
T.I.A.
Rif

 

[bamabikeguy]

Hey Rif,

Are you using mid grade/major brand?

I went ages before cleaning the foam air cleaner on mine, that usually isn't it.

And you haven't had it long enough to change plugs, I guess.

Poor grade, or month old gas would be the easiest source.

 

[uncle_punk13]

So I should try the premium? I always go with the lowest octane/price. I'll give 'er a go and see what happens. Thanks!
Rif

 

[Mountainman]

when warmed up
have you tried starting with just a slight chock ?
just thinking possibly a little lean
not noticed when starting cold because you are using chock ?

have seen this problem before somewhere
just not coming back into the minds eye at this time ???
will be thinking on this ???

governor not acting right ???

ride the motor bike

 

[Zev0]

Rif, I had that problem with my PF33. Changed the original champion plug to a NGK and no problems since then. In fact, hot or cold, now 1 pull is just about all it takes.

 

[mabman]

Try starting it with a full crack of throttle. It works on chainsaws.

 

[jg767]

I had the same problem, I just cleaned the plug. Took care of it.

 

[bamabikeguy]

I only had a 40cc Tanaka for about a month, and mabman's post

Try starting it with a full crack of throttle.

reminds me of the emergency remedy, which was releasing the belt tension, using my "cruise control" wire to hold the throttle in about 1/3, then pull.....a friendly stranger could also help with that experiment, you hold the throttle in while he pulls the cord.

When the ethanol legislation took effect last summer, I felt the effects immediately with the 87 octane, I use mostly Standards and Amocos. Moving up to 89 octane, NEVER using discount brands, got the performance back up to nearly normal.

But when I had that 40cc, (this was way back in 2006 or 07, thousands of brain cells killed since then), it seems I had an "old batch of gas episode", and jg767's reply

I had the same problem, I just cleaned the plug. Took care of it.

sparked a memory, because that plastic spark plug cover worked loose, and I had to pay .70 for the small metric bolt that went missing.

A gummy spark plug would be easy to spot....

 

[uncle_punk13]

Well thank you all for the replies! I sure do appreciate it!!!
I have tried the choke in different positions, I have tried the throttle in different positions, and a combination of these with the same result. No pop.
I'm gonna try the plug swap to the NGK (always had good results with NGK), and will stop using the lower grade gas... I never use 'off brand' gas; I usually go with Chevron, or Shell. It's a funny thing with these small engines and gasoline- My Tecumseh 49 friction didn't mind the lower grade gas, but my (Tanaka)Bike-Bug ran better and with more power on highest rated gas... Ah-Ha! Tanaka Bike Bug ran best on Higher grade Gas; Same company, so seems reasonable that the PF40 needs the same right?!?!?
Again thanks my M/B brothers,
Rif

 

[Happy Valley]

What carb do those run? I have a Mitsu 40cc that has a Nikki carb with a tickler on it.
It hard starts when hot if I don't prime it repeatedly (no choke) and hold the tickler until gas runs out. I think the gas in bowl just vaporizes quickly after shut down when hot.