Thank goodness for global warming

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by Fabian, Jan 16, 2014.

  1. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    Location: Outer eastern suburbs of Melbourne (Australia) on January 16th @ 4:30 pm (eastern daylight savings time).

    If this is the result of global warming, then bring it on and give me more decent summer weather.
    I love the heat - i say more, please sir, give me more global warming.

    Even on a 45 degree day (in the shade), the CR Machine Manufacturing billet cylinder head didn't exceed 198 degrees Celsius (with the engine working it's guts out) on a steep; slow hill climb, and it settled back to 165 degrees on flat ground; dropping to 155 degrees once increased air speed was moving over the cylinder head - most impressive, but you would expect that, considering how much surface area is designed into Fred's billet cylinder head, compared to other manufacturer's.

    074KU likes this.

  2. 074KU

    074KU Member

    Always sir, you read my mind. You would recommend Fred's creations as a solution to overheating as a result of higher compression?
    I recently milled my stock engine head down to about 8cc and the Tas weather of 26-30c nearly killed the little thing. Now the local metal merchants want the souls of my unborn children for a head sized hunk of billet..
    Been playing with these 2 smokers for a few years now (still know 2/3 of nothing about them) trying to teach myself how to use a machine shop, but if I gotta buy I gotta buy.
  3. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    Freds billet cylinder heads are a solution to "any" form of cylinder head over heating.
    If you are having over heating problems due to compression issues, then you have "too much" compression.

    Here are some options:

    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
  4. 074KU

    074KU Member

    Cheers very much for that. Nice to see all the options on the table as it were :grin5:
    I am amazed at just how much metal is in the CR Machine heads as opposed to stock, seeing them together really gives an idea of scale.

    Time to pull out the card for another round of shiny parts buying :)
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2014
  5. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    The CR Machine Manufacturing cylinder head is a serious bit of gear, and it looks larger in real life than it does on the video.

    I can report that on my last alpine trip, where the engine was massively stressed for the longest uninterrupted period, under the toughest conditions i've ever asked it to endure; slaving it's guts out like never before (working harder than a one armed wall paperer on a ceiling job) that the cylinder head temperature reached a new high of 217 degrees Celsius or 422 degrees Fahrenheit.

    That said, i've seen higher cylinder head temperature with the gauge maxed out at 275 degrees celsius (527 degrees Fahrenheit) using the standard cylinder head, but i am sure that the temperature was even higher because the gauge maxed out less than 1/3 the way through a nasty steep (but relatively short) hill climb.

    Without doubt, the CR Machine Manufacturing billet cylinder head is the one and only; the last word and the only billet cylinder head to consider with what's currently available on the market.

    If i were starting over, i would ask Fred to machine the spark plug hole to accept a TTO cylinder head temperature gauge sensor.
  6. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

  7. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    What's the "maximum advisable" cylinder head temperature on your engine?
    I guess it's different for everyone, dependent on fuel type and CR and probably other thngs I don't know about yet.. but I am just wondering.
  8. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    I like to see cylinder head temperature in the 130 degree zone (266 Fahrenheit) but without water cooling, the engine is at the mercy of road speed, but better put, the mercy of roadspeed being able to supply sufficient quantity of fast moving air over the cylinder head.

    The slower the bike travels, the slower the airspeed over the cylinder head, so the main factor in maintaining cylinder head temperature at the desired figure comes down to cylinder head surface area.

    Even if you have a cylinder head with a lot of cooling surface area, it will still see high temperatures if little of next to no airflow is moving over the cylinder head.
    This is the scenario my engine goes through whenever i ride my bike, more so when it is doing heavy haul, which has the engine working it's guts out; sometimes at walking pace.

    I am happy if i can keep cylinder head temperature under 180 degrees (356 Fahrenheit) and for the most part the CR Machine Manufacturing cylinder head achieves that goal.

    Having said that, i have never seized an engine, and that includes running the TTO cylinder head temperature gauge off-the-clock; maxing out at 275 degrees (527 Fahrenheit), and i am sure it was in the 300 zone (572 Fahrenheit, because there was a column of smoke rising off the engine), but then again my carburettor is jetted right on the edge of 4-stroking (to keep exhaust gas temperature as low as possible) and i use 25:1 oil/fuel ratio.

    The maximum exhaust gas temperature i have seen is 550 degrees (1022 Fahrenheit) and at the time i was seeing 240 degrees (464 fahrenheit) cylinder head temperature, using a standard cylinder head.

    On my Mt Hotham hill climb, where i reached my highest ever maximum of 217 degrees (422 Fahrenheit) using the CR Machine Manufacturing cylinder head, the exhaust gas temperature was in the 450 degree zone (842 Fahrenheit) but i attribute that to the decreased oxygen of high altitude operation, effectively making the engine run richer than at sea level.
    To my frustration, i didn't have the Walbro style diaphragm carburettor fitted, as i didn't have enough time to reinstall it after the engine debacle concerning the magnet and keyway damage.
    If i had the diaphragm carburettor installed, i could have easily adjusted the jetting to suit the ever increasing altitude to Mt Hotham
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2014
    FurryOnTheInside likes this.
  9. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    wow thanks, that's quite an answer! :D
  10. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    I am most enthusiastic about having an exhaust gas temperature gauge and a cylinder head temperature gauge, because i like to know at all times what my engine is doing and just how close i am to cooking it solid, so i can avoid cooking it solid.

    After doing some quick research, i came across a site that said: "objects start glowing around 600C or 1100F, so a plug insulator is glowing above 1100F".

    It seems that on that fateful day (when i had exhaust gas temperature at 550 degrees (1022 Fahrenheit), the engine was frighteningly close to pre-ignition.
  11. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    same here for 3 months straight, 100-105 degrees
    this is the only advantage:
  12. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    I am perfectly at home in a mid latitude climate, where good things abound. This type of scenic beauty rarely has the chance to show itself in the south eastern regions of Australia.
    Not being married also helps with the beauty of life


    Last edited: Mar 22, 2014
  13. 074KU

    074KU Member

    If its got **** or Tyers its trouble.. I prefer to limit myself to the variety that doesn't talk back.. still steals all my time and money but at least when I ride it hard or ignore it for a while it doesn't nag me. :grin5:

    I would rather the weather stay at optimum engine running/cooling levels but we Tassie fellas never have managed well in the heat. :sweatdrop:
  14. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    LOL you lot. :rolleyes7: There's plenty other sites I can go to for girlfriend pics. :p
    Definitely have a TTO head temp guage in the build plan, they're only $40 so why not? :) Just realised I didn't have any clue what it was supposed to read. I know different engines are bound take different temperatures to ruin their various bits. I just wanted a baseline basically so thanks for that info, Fabian. I would probably switch off and pedal or pull over if it reads above 180C.. unless that's way too frequently, then I'll up it to 200C. If I can pedal my bike now then I won't really need to work the engine hard all the time anyway so shouldn't be too much trouble. And as you say it's way less hassle and much quieter than a human stoker. :p
  15. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    :iagree: 100% and when the variety that doesn't talk back is running optimally, it does so every day of the month.
  16. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    tee hee I just figured out what that says under the asterisks. :shifty2:
  17. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    hot weather... fuel fumes?

    Does your fuel tank heat up and fuel fumes get right up your nose when you're doing those long slow climbs in the sun?
  18. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    I've never had any issues of that nature.
    It doesn't appear to excessively heat up, nor do fumes cause any problems when on the move.
  19. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    Excellent, now find me a girlfriend with stack loads of disposable income that will spend it on my rampant desire for mechanically beautiful objects, as well as my desire for fine food, fine wine and a woman with fine personal presentation.

    I said the same thing.

    The first time you see 180C, you'll panic, then the first time you see 200C, you'll panic if having a CR Machine Manufacturing cylinder head installed on your engine, but having said that, you will be terrified at how hot a standard cylinder head gets to, with 240C not being an uncommon cylinder head temperature, even with correct jetting.
  20. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    Cool. That's good to know. I just had a startling thought it might get scorching hot ablow vapours in my face all day, lol; but you've put my mind at ease. Will get a stealthier tank on their sometime anyway. :)

    And I don't mind running the engine less, pedalling more or pulling over.. travelling time won't be an issue compared to now when I'm having to keep pedalling all the time, so I'll just baby it til I can get a decent head. CR Machine doesn't do exactly the head arrangement I think I will need though.. but I haven't found that out yet (whether it'll need comp' release).. and I don't need to know yet as a proper/expensive head is in my "phase III" plan anyway (though I do continue to think about these things as I'm frustrated at not getting started yet, lol!)