The scooterguy offers freewheel crank and drive system SPECIAL

Discussion in 'Dealer Advertisements' started by thescooterguy, Feb 24, 2009.

  1. thescooterguy

    thescooterguy Member

    The scooter guy brand freewheel crank and drive system has many applications , not just for scooter guy brand motorized mountain bikes , this system uses a nice low profile design with lots or clearance for your bike frame , i use a nice heavy but compact chain 8mm , with 4 options on your drive sprocket , 11t , 14t , 17t , and 20t , the large chain ring is a 54 t , with the smallest 1/2in bike sprocket being a 22t . i use a 4 bolt system with 64mm spacing all designed for use with sick bike parts threaded pedals. comes with freewheel , all chain rings , 8mm chain , and your choice of drive sprocket. all assembled and shipped to your door for $75.00 . you will still need sick bike parts threaded pedals , great deal for just 30.50 here is the link for that and here are a few pictures of the set up .
    and a video of the system in action
    check out my growing and always changing website at

  2. spad4me

    spad4me Member


    Thanks for the pictures.
  3. thescooterguy

    thescooterguy Member

    your welcome , a picture is worth a 1000 words .
  4. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    well scooterguy
    I guess that was the first time that I went to your web site
    although I have seen your machines around much in other places
    I find your products offered very interesting
    you seem to stay right there with what is wanted regarding motorized bicycles
    it's fun from down here -- watching you expand and grow up there
    even though I have been thinking about a MB #2
    and not exactly what you are turning out there
    I almost feel like ordering one of your deluxe MB systems

    if you will
    just what would your top of the line -- ready to ride -- MB go for
    delieved to San Diego, Calif
    not placing an order at this time
    but -- sure have been interested for a while now !!!

    you may pm me if you wish

    ride the motor bike
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2009
  5. nadroj

    nadroj Member

    you have a good idea. but i think alot of us are not comfortable with putting holes in our frames. If you made a clamping design you might sell a few more
  6. thescooterguy

    thescooterguy Member

    thank you for bringing that up . most people who use china kits clamp the motor on the frame bending the tube , in doing so they compromise the integrity of the frame , and if enough pressure is applied when the bike breaks it will break where the tube is bent . also clamps shake and raddled loose , causing a cascade of problems ,
    if you take an aluminum tube and drill a 1/4 inch hole in it , then put a bolt through the hole with washers on both ends then nuts on both sides , then tighten it snug. Is the hole there ? now on the same tube clamp the tube bending it slightly . putt that tube under some tension until it bends or breaks , it will bend at the clamp not the the hole with a bolt through it . if you want to clamp my system on your bike it can and has been done , but i have built allot of bikes and guaranteed everyone of them for free service and repairs , (customer buys the parts )for as long as the customer owns the bike . I did this because my design for the scooter guy motorized mountain bike was a work in progress , and i wanted to watch every bike i made to see were the week spots were , needless to say . my design evolved into what you see today , the mounting system is fully adjustable uses a countless number of motors , fits all sorts of bikes from full suspension bikes to recumbent bikes , it rides smooth without shaking , and rattling apart , this mount goes on the bike and does not move , you will ride hundreds of miles without turning a screw . clamps are not dependable enough unless you call NASA to design a good system for clamping , i have one on the drawing board , but the thing is , it has to be affordable too . the scooter guy says motorized bikes should be affordable , and i think my prices reflect that , without compromising product quality , and soon everyone who owns a scooter guy brand motorized bike will have a local scooter guy shop to help them buy and maintain the bike . my goal is one scooter guy location in every state to serve customers , no other brand of motorized bike can offer that , at present , if you live in OREGON , FLORIDA , WASHINGTON , or MICHIGAN you can test ride and buy a scooter guy brand motorized bike from a local scooter guy rep . 47states to go . my motto is that business grows in direct proportion to the quality of services and products i provide to my customers , and i want to grow . if you have experience with scooter or motorized bikes or have a scooter shop , and are interested in taking advantage of the benefits of being a certified scooter guy rep please pm me . thanks again for your interest in my product .
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2009
  7. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    Glad you feel that way. What one publishes on a homepage goes unremarked, however, discussion on a public forum opens the subject to debate and the gauntlet of public opinion.

    IMO, a poor model to invite comparison. As many here have noted the stock mounts supplied with most HT kits are often problematic with much discussion from experienced MBers on mods and fixes designed to alleviate those problems. It does not instill confidence to state one's design is equal to another bad design.

    Is that a trick question? The point is not to drill at all but if you do......... not that that the resulting volume of the void created by a drilled hole is filled but how it is filled and that it retains the structural integrity close to that of the undrilled tube.
    On all bikes you see original manufacturers avoid any unnecessary drilling of frames, particularly top and down tubes. For that reason brake bosses and cable stops are welded on. If done, it always includes an insert welded in place, for small diameter holes for water bottle lugs for example, but particular care is taken at this point as is any heat treating necessary after welding.

    Parts? Like a fractured frame?

    It's a stretch to say that between a HT factory in China and Ridley Motorcycles lies a detour to NASA.
    Give enough credit to the many members here that know the difference. There are many discussions in these pages about DIY fabbing HT motor mounts. Even a quick cursory search brings up the subject many times and offers numerous examples.

    It's plain that you have and probably will continue to cite the assertion that you have built bikes this way and not yet had a problem and that backing it up with a limited warranty proves the point.

    To me it doesn't. One catastrophic failure would be sufficient to negate all the positive assertions.
    I have stated before I think the mount hardware you are developing is innovative but drilling a bicycle frame to mount an engine is a bad idea. To argue it isn't in the interest of marketing or sales expediency is to fall short with that innovation.
  8. nadroj

    nadroj Member

    I agree drilling into an aluminum frame does not seem safe to me, especially the down tube. plus the holes hold a 10+lbs motor.
  9. thescooterguy

    thescooterguy Member

    your argument is convincing and elegantly put . but hay lets just ride and have fun . i'm just saying here's an option , this is the way i mount it . i am open minded and always open to suggestions and ideas and a clamping system is a great idea . and when the right one has been designed and can be reproduced so people can afford it , i will be the first one to offer it up . if i were narrow minded the scooter guy brand motorized bike would have never come into existence . and there would be no other choices for people to make but to buy one of the kits you like. thanks again for your opinion , i appreciate your involvement in all my threads . if it hadn't been for you i would have never designed the scooter guy brand freewheel crank system . thanks .what do you think of it ? that's what this thread is about , you already talked about my bolting system on previous threads.
  10. nadroj

    nadroj Member

    I am in no way bashing your idea or design. I personally would not drill holes into my bike. If you did offer a clamping design I would cosider buying your motor kit
  11. thescooterguy

    thescooterguy Member

    thanks nadroj , i appreciate and understand how you feel , i have found that some hydraulic clamps have threaded inlets for 1/4 inch thread , they can work for a clamping system , they have flexible bands that will conform to a bikes contours and not bend your frame and are thin enough to go under break and shift cables , they are not very pretty and i don't know how well they would hold up .i won't sell a clamping system until i think it is better then my bolting system , which i have 100 percent confidence in . i have been trying to research how bike frames break , what causes it ,ever since hpv started voicing his opinions on my threads . and really how much of what will break or crack or bend a bike frame .i had a customer hit a car last summer . he was OK he flew up on the hood and his front forks bent , i replaced that for him but the rest of the bike was fine even where the holes were drilled , i have never seen a broken frame , so i haven't had to deal with a problem like that . in the beginning it was chain derailment that caused most of my failures , do to an earlyer clamping system that would shift and move . changing the sprocket alignment , no mater how tight i made it. eventually it would fail . the bolting system that i use works very well . i have two customers that ride off road doing jumps and woopties exclusively , they use my peg design that drills holes in the back , i expressed concern when they ordered there bikes and to this date they have had no problems either . like i said . i have never seen a broken frame . and would like to hear from people that have had this happen so i can better understand what causes and why cracked or broken frames accure . a computer generated stress test would be really cool . where you could do differant things to a tube and then stress it to see what happens , like a flight simulation , i'm sure there is something like that out there , maybe hpv knows where to find one . i need a video camera i can mount on my helmet , and i can do some off road runs and abuse a bike to show the strength and durability of my system . i feel another video coming on
  12. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    have you considered my approach as presented in the frame mount forum under the title Trek 4500/ GP460/ 8 speed SHIFTER ?

    since this thread is about Jerrys freewheel configuration i invite your comments about MY clamp setup over in that thread.

    looking forward to your input,
  13. thescooterguy

    thescooterguy Member

  14. here are some some clamps that people use on Harleys the 3 piecs clamps are very stout & many people have foot pegs mounted with & they dont shift now this is if you use one of the standard pipe sizes offered the cost are not unreasonable as far as I am concerned the 3 piece sell for around $7 each the Kuryakn as well as the P clamps are in the low $20s each

    I know a few more styles exist but I just did a quick look & it has been 5 years since I worked at an independent Harley shop & I worked there 13 years.

  15. thescooterguy

    thescooterguy Member

    now thats what i am talkin bout , those are awsome .
  16. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    the "P" clamp is the bomb if you can size it for your top tube.

    i'm going to look into them just for looks and simplicity alone.

  17. skjjoe

    skjjoe Member

    where is your rep at in Florida
  18. thescooterguy

    thescooterguy Member

    Jesse Simmonds 11648 mellow ct royal palm beach hes just getting set up . give him a call 561-248-0352 , tell him you herd about it on **** get a kick out of it .
  19. thescooterguy

    thescooterguy Member

    ive got a harley shop about 1 mile from me im gonna ride in there on my bike . hope they don't kick me out . lol
  20. the real bikers dont really care what you ride as long as you ride. the only thing that may bother them are fake Harley jap copys like the V twin pretty much anything else goes. I am a little on the extreme side I won't accept any Harley made after 1985 as that is when Harley turned their back on the bikers that kept them alive all those years & they went after the money. so I will never own nor ride any made after 85 & when I worked at bike shop I refused to work on nothing but old school bikes & there were plenty as their was a "club" with lots of patch holders a couple miles down the road, I still have my shovel & pan as well as a flathead, & another shovel basket but sold my knuckle.

    me refusing to work on later models is not why I dont work there anymore after 13 years, it was a falling out in general about parts removed from my bike & customers allowed to try on their bikes to make a sale instead of having those racing parts in stock. & most common parts were either my racing brakes including my small diameter master cylinder or my perfectly dialed in carb for my bike. it has been my seat, wheel & tire to a prospect that had a flat & had to get to the meetings, my chain to another member for a trip when he had sold his last chain so a member could do his trip, my handlebars so people could see how 16 inch ape knurled bars were compared to their current bars, how about my neck bearings? yeah almost new set to a customer because he had sold his last set & guy needed to get going soon so he removed my set & put them in & left my bike on lift until new bearings came in.. oh he never reinstalled the parts either just left them for me to do. but he gave me lots of used as well as new parts & paid me good. there are other parts.. but I got sick of it & stopped working for him. my bike was never safe to leave alone in his shop unwatched by me.