Time to start shifting

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Ryusei139, Oct 13, 2014.

  1. Ryusei139

    Ryusei139 New Member

    I just got my HD sbp shift kit. My five speed with 90 mm drum brake will the here in 2 days. Any advice...

  2. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
    BigSam, Ryusei139 and Purple Haze like this.
  3. Ryusei139

    Ryusei139 New Member

    Thank you Fabian almost all of these I can use for setup and knowledge. Its pretty impressive how much technical info you have. Does anyone have any input on internal gear hubs. I've searched and the last posts are kind of old, maybe someone can chime in?
  4. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Just more JS tips.

    Always turn the nut holding the engine output sprocket clockwise to move chain and not counter-clockwise as in Fabians videos.
    That is a clockwise threaded nut and you can loosen it going backwards.

    Left side chain is always a bear and shims help, but don't neglect the 3rd mount point from the big round clutch cover, this can help you teak the mount angle just a bit to tighten or loosen the first chain.

    Pay close attention to where the freewheel bearing big sprockets align, you can use washers between the sprockets FW bearing, and of course washers between the JS sprockets and their bearings.
    The simple rule start with the small black washer against the bearing, from there on it's just a combination of fat brass and thin black washers for chain alignment.
  5. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    In principle, :iagree: but if the nut is properly torqued, it won't come undone with light hand tool pressure.
  6. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

  7. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    My first preference is for the Nuvinci Hub, but they do not make a hub strong enough for a motorised application.
    My second preference is for internally geared hubs, but the issue with internally geared hubs is that of internal gear failure, which leaves you up a creek without a paddle if it happens to fail; with shredded gear teeth working their way through the system; smashing to pieces every other gear in the system.

    At least a derailleur system allows easy replacement of the sprockets and chain and rear derailleur and hanger if you're in a more remote location.
    As part of my tool kit, i carry spare chain, spare cable, spare hanger, spare largest cassette sprockets and a spare rear derailleur.

    If an internally geared hub fails, it's likely to be an impossible job to service the thing (on the side of the road) without specialised tools and a proper workbench.
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2014
  8. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    My knowledge is "limited", compared to some of the other "especially" knowledgeable people on this forum, who put me to shame with their impressive technical prowess.
  9. Ryusei139

    Ryusei139 New Member

    Thanks again guys I'm going to go with the derailleur setup if this hub breaks. I'll go easy on it. Can I get some help with rpm and speed I can give all the info. 10 tooth engine, 17 tooth jackshaft; 11 jackshaft, 44 tooth chain ring; 36 chain ring, 18 tooth on hub. Ratios for hub are 1st 2.8, 2nd 3.4, 3rd 4.5, 4th 6, 5th 7.2. Sorry I'm posting from my phone my laptop is busted and I can't use the ratio program.